INTRODUCTION
Human hair
Hair is a protein filament that grows from follicles located in the dermis, extending through the skin's surface and into the epidermis These hair follicles are crucial for hair fiber formation and production, directly influencing the physiological aspects of hair Rich in sensory receptors, hair follicles contribute to a highly developed sense of touch Genetic variations in the shape of these follicles result in the diverse range of natural hairstyles.
Figure 1 1 The anatomy of human hair (Source: Macrovector PTE Ltd)
The sebaceous gland, located at the upper part of the hair follicle, plays a crucial role in secreting sebum, a natural conditioner that lubricates and protects both the scalp and hair Sebum production increases significantly after puberty for both genders, effectively coating the hair shaft during youth However, as individuals age, sebum production declines more markedly in females than in males, leading to distinct differences in hair physiology among the elderly.
Hair is a nonliving material that undergoes a continuous cycle of renewal and shedding, growing at an impressive rate of 0.35mm per day This remarkable growth allows for the replacement of old, damaged hair with new strands, making hair the only completely renewable body structure, provided the hair follicle remains functional Hair growth occurs in a precise cyclic pattern, which includes three distinct stages.
The anagen phase, which is the hair growth period, typically lasts around 1000 days and is the only stage where hair is actively produced The length and thickness of hair are primarily influenced by the duration of this growth phase Additionally, hair tends to grow faster during the summer months.
During winter, hair growth tends to be faster at night than during the day, with women experiencing quicker hair growth than men Various factors, such as genetics, nutrition, age, and overall health, also play a significant role in determining the duration of the anagen phase, which is crucial for hair length.
The catagen phase, lasting about 14 days, marks the transition period in the hair growth cycle when melanocytes in the hair bulb cease melanin production During this stage, hair growth halts, and strands become loosely attached to the hair follicle, making them easily shed as they disconnect from the blood supply.
The telogen phase, a brief resting period for hair follicles, lasts only a few weeks, during which new hair begins to grow beneath the old telogen fiber, ultimately pushing it out The hair that is shed during this stage is known as club hair, a fully keratinized and dead hair strand However, in instances of extreme stress, a condition termed telogen effluvium can occur, leading to as much as 70% of hair entering the telogen phase prematurely, resulting in significant hair loss.
Various physical factors, including severe illness, surgery, weight fluctuations, pregnancy, hormonal changes, thyroid disorders, and skin diseases, can significantly impact hair growth In contrast, physical alterations that only affect the hair shaft, such as shaving, curling, combing, and dyeing, do not influence hair growth.
Figure 1.2 Head hair growth cycle (Source: Shutterstock Ltd )
This section covers the structure of the hair shaft, the hair growth cycle, and various factors that influence hair physiology in both males and females.
The hair shaft, made up of keratinized cells, features a highly organized structure that grants it exceptional resistance to environmental damage It consists of three distinct regions, each contributing to its overall strength and durability.
Figure 1.3 Schematic diagram of scalp hair (Source: Shutterstock Ltd)
The cuticle, consisting of 6–8 overlapping cell scales, serves as the outermost layer of hair, playing a crucial role in protecting hair strands, influencing physical properties, and determining surface characteristics This layer is the primary target of hair conditioners, significantly affecting tactile perception Microscopic observations reveal that the cuticle resembles roof shingles, with overlapping cells aiding in regulating water movement, thus ensuring fiber function and durability The shape and orientation of cuticle cells contribute to varying friction effects in hair Composed of protein-based keratin scales, the cuticle can open to absorb ingredients or close to retain them, influenced by pH and temperature When the scales open, beneficial chemicals can penetrate to the cortex, the hair's control center, leading to irreversible changes.
When the hair cuticle is closed, it prevents moisture loss and protects against environmental damage, resulting in a smooth appearance that is essential for healthy hair Conversely, when the cuticle is raised, it creates roughness on the hair surface, leading to tangling Maintaining a closed cuticle is key to achieving the ideal hair texture.
The cell-grade structure of hair cuticle cells comprises various sub-lamellar layers, with the outer epicuticle featuring a proteinaceous layer covered by a lipid film, primarily 18-methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA) This outer β-layer, or F-layer, is crucial for regulating the hair's surface properties, including friction and its semi-permeable membrane function Beneath the epicuticle lies the A-layer, which safeguards the hair shaft against chemical and environmental damage, thanks to its high cystine content that provides mechanical toughness and chemical resilience An intact cuticle is vital for hair's cosmetic appeal, making it the focus of hair conditioners aimed at restoring its structure The subsequent layers, the exocuticle and endocuticle, contain lower cystine levels, resulting in a more porous endocuticle that allows water access The cell membrane complex (CMC), consisting of the inner β-layer, δ-layer, and outer β-layer, acts as intercellular cement and is particularly susceptible to chemical treatments and environmental stressors, which can alter the lipid content and shift the surface from hydrophobic to more hydrophilic and negatively charged.
(a) The sub-lamellar structure of the cuticle (b) Schematic of the outer β-layer
Figure 1.4 The structure of the cuticle (Source: Ref.[5])
The cortex is the most substantial layer of the hair shaft, situated between the cuticle and medulla, and is primarily composed of closely packed spindle-shaped cells known as cortical cells These cells are bound together by an intercellular binding material called the cell membrane complex (CMC), which plays a crucial role in influencing the mechanical properties of the hair The cortical cells vary in shape and size but are predominantly spindle-shaped and aligned along the hair fibers' main axis The cortex consists mainly of macrofibrils separated by thin membranes, and in addition to serving as an adhesive agent, the CMC contains melanin pigments that determine the hair's color.
The medulla is the central core of hair fiber, but when present, it typically constitutes only a small fraction of the hair's overall mass, resulting in minimal impact on the mechanical properties of human hair fibers.
Hair conditioners
This section summarizes key information about hair conditioners, including their functions, classifications, and the primary ingredients used in their formulation (see Ref [2, 10] for the complete text).
Human hair does not have a vital function, but is an important element of body image, because it has a psychological and social importance as part of one‟s identity The hair
Hair is a unique physical characteristic that can be transformed by fashion trends, culture, and social values To achieve desired looks, consumers utilize various hair care products, including conditioners, shampoos, styling products, hair dyes, and straighteners Hair conditioners play a crucial role in enhancing the texture and appearance of hair, providing essential care and nourishment, particularly after shampooing Their primary function is to replenish the sebum lost during washing, while being enriched with vitamins, proteins, and fruit extracts to promote shine, thickness, and overall hair health Additionally, maintaining a balanced and healthy diet is vital for addressing and treating hair issues effectively.
Healthy hair is soft, resilient, and easy to manage, but common practices like shampooing, drying, and styling can lead to damage, making hair harsh and brittle Hair conditioners work to repair this damage by reducing static, enhancing manageability and shine, minimizing split ends, and increasing flexibility.
Hair conditioners enhance manageability by reducing static electricity When combing or brushing, hair shafts acquire a negative charge, causing them to repel each other and disrupt smooth styling Conditioners work by depositing positively charged ions onto the hair shaft, which neutralizes the negative charge and helps minimize frizz.
Hair conditioners not only reduce static electricity but also enhance hair manageability, which refers to how easily hair can be combed and styled By smoothing the cuticle's surface and filling in gaps around cuticular scales, conditioners significantly decrease friction between hair shafts, potentially reducing it by up to 50% This reduction in friction facilitates easier disentangling after shampooing, leading to the development of cream rinses specifically formulated to simplify the combing process.
17 shampooing A special subset of these products is designed to aid in combing children‟s hair [2]
Increased hair shine is often associated with healthy hair, as shine results from light reflecting off smooth hair surfaces Conditioners enhance hair gloss by promoting better adherence of the cuticular scales to the hair shaft and applying a thin coating over each individual hair.
Conditioners play a crucial role in reducing split ends by temporarily repairing damage at the hair shaft's distal end Split ends arise when the hair cuticle is stripped away, leaving the vulnerable keratin cortex and medulla exposed to environmental stress and grooming damage This exposure causes the protein structures to fray, similar to damaged textile fibers By re-approximating the frayed ends, conditioners strengthen the hair shaft and help prevent breakage However, it's important to note that the effects of conditioners are temporary, as they are washed away with shampoo, necessitating reapplication after each wash.
Conditioners enhance hair flexibility, allowing it to bend without breaking, which is crucial for preventing damage, particularly in women with long hair.
Choosing the right hair conditioner is crucial for maintaining healthy hair, as different conditioners cater to specific hair types and conditions With a variety of options available, it's essential to select a conditioner based on your individual needs Hair conditioners can be categorized into four main types: instant conditioners, deep conditioners, leave-in conditioners, and sunscreen conditioners, each serving distinct purposes Ultimately, the method of application and type of conditioner should align with your hair care goals.
Instant conditioners are aptly named, since they are applied directly from the bottle to
Instant hair conditioners are designed for brief application, typically lasting 1–5 minutes after shampooing, and are essential for those who wash their hair frequently Due to the powerful cleansing properties of modern shampoos, which effectively remove sebum and styling products, hair can become unmanageable and damaged from regular use These conditioners provide minimal conditioning benefits and must be reapplied after each wash to maintain hair health, particularly for individuals with chemically treated or damaged hair.
Instant conditioners are widely favored for both home and salon use, despite their limited capacity to repair damaged hair These conditioners are formulated with water, conditioning agents, lipids, and thickeners, with the primary conditioning agent being cationic detergent, commonly referred to as quats.
Deep conditioners, typically creams or oils, differ from instant conditioners, which are lotions, as they are intended to be left on the hair for 20–30 minutes before rinsing These products often feature higher concentrations of conditioning agents, including quaternary compounds and proteins For individuals with kinky hair, particularly within the African American community, warm oil treatments are commonly used The primary objective of deep conditioning is to enable the conditioning agents to effectively coat and penetrate the hair shaft, enhancing its overall appearance Heat, from sources like hairdryers or warm towels, may be applied to facilitate this process by causing the hair shaft to swell, thereby promoting deeper conditioner absorption.
Products designed for extremely dry and damaged hair are essential for individuals experiencing hair breakage rather than true hair loss Many patients visit dermatologists unaware that excessive chemical and physical manipulation has weakened their hair fibers To address this issue, specialized deep conditioners, often referred to as fillers, can be recommended to help minimize further damage from additional chemical treatments.
19 processing Fillers are designed to condition the distal hair shaft and reverse some of the effects of hair damage, allowing even application of the subsequent coloring or waving procedure [2]
Leave-in conditioners are applied after towel-drying hair to aid in styling and remain on the hair until the next shampoo A significant subset of these products, known as blow-drying lotions, protect hair from heat damage during drying They are particularly popular among individuals with curly or kinky hair, as they lubricate and moisturize the hair shaft, enhancing manageability and shine Products like oil sheen sprays and oily pomades help retain moisture in chemically straightened hair and reduce combing friction, preventing breakage While oily leave-in conditioners can weigh down fine, straight hair, they are beneficial for coarse, kinky hair Common ingredients include petrolatum, mineral oil, vegetable oils, and silicone, making them effective hair moisturizers.
Hair rinses are specialized hair conditioners that act as lightweight liquids, applied after shampooing and rinsed out for instant results Formulated with cationic quaternary ammonium compounds like stearalkonium chloride and benzalkonium chloride, these products primarily aid in detangling hair by minimizing friction, rather than deeply conditioning the hair shaft They are particularly beneficial for individuals with oily hair, who require minimal conditioning due to excess sebum production.
EXPERIMENTAL - RESEARCH METHODOLOGIES
Materials and equipments
In this thesis, some equipments were used: (1) moisture meter SATORIUS MA35; (2) centrifuger LC-05LA; (3) Technical balance WBA-6200; (4) Stirrer MixD01; (5) pH meter HI 11202, and (6) Color meter Minolta CR 400
Cetyl alcohol Co-Emulsifier, bodying agent Wax Cognis
BTAC Emulsifier, conditioning agent Wax Brentagg
Silsoft E50 Conditioning agent Emulsion Thailand
Belsil ADM 331 Conditioning agent Emulsion Wacker Belsil
D-Panthenol Nourishing agent Liquid CMS
Fragrance Scent agent Liquid Drom fragrance
Citric acid pH adjuster Solid Merck
EDTA Chelating agent Solid China
HEC Rheological additive Solid China
Sodium Chloride Rheological additive Solid Xilong
Ethyl alcohol Solvent Liquid China
Sodium laurylsulfate Detergency agent Paste China
Physicochemical properties measurement
The dry matter content of a product is assessed through moisture measurement using the SATORIUS MA35 method This technique involves heating a sample until all moisture is evaporated, achieving a constant mass By calculating the mass difference before and after the process, the moisture content can be determined Raw materials, weighing a minimum of 0.1g, are placed in aluminum discs and measured three times to ensure accuracy The average moisture content is then calculated by averaging the results from these measurements.
In this study, the viscosity of cream products was assessed using the falling needle method, which serves as an internal standard The results indicate that a higher needle penetration value correlates with lower viscosity Each test was conducted five times to ensure accuracy, and the final data presented represents the average of these measurements.
Colorimetric measurements were conducted using the Minolta CR 400 signaling machine with the CIELCH color system at the Organic Chemistry Laboratory of Bach Khoa University The findings reveal significant color differences during storage, highlighting that these changes may not be easily detectable through manual inspection.
Sensory evaluation
The sensory evaluation scoring system is designed to assess product performance, with a score of 3 indicating that the sample matches the prototype Scores of 4 and 5 signify that the sample performs better and much better than the original product, respectively, while scores of 2 and 1 reflect that the sample is worse and much worse than the control Thus, scores above 3 represent superior samples, while lower scores indicate inferior quality compared to the control Each evaluation was conducted 2 to 3 times by two evaluators to ensure reliability.
Table 2 2 Scoring system for sensory evaluation
The sample was much better 5
The sample closely matched the controlling product 3
The sample was much worse 1
In the appearance sensory evaluation, the conditioning cream base of the samples and controlling products under natural light, then evaluated and scored them as follows:
Homogenous: no phase separation was observed
Smoothness: the cream base was free from unevenness of surface and trapped air
Glossiness: the cream base had a shiny or lustrous surface
Softness: The cream base hade a soft texture
Take - out properties:The easy of taking the conditioner out of the tube when used
The viscosity and hardness of the cream base must not be too high in order that the product can be squeezed out easily
The hair evaluation protocol for this project was adapted from the DKSH Company's hair assessment process The sensory evaluation of hair performance, utilizing Cognis sensory methods for hair conditioners, was conducted by two evaluators who assessed and scored the results accordingly.
Spreadability: spreadability of the conditioner when used on hair and between fingers
Delivered a smooth, slippery, soft but not sticky or greasy feel when used
Rinsability: the conditioner can be rinsed off easily without any undesired residue on hair and hand
Wet slip feel: immprove hair softness, smoothness and slip greatly during rinse The slippery, smooth and soft feel on hair when it was wet (right after rinsed-off)
Combing wet: the easy of combing when the hair was wet
Wet hair feel: the soft, smooth, slippery feel on hair when it was wet
Combing dry: the easy of combing when the hair was dry
Dry hair feel: the soft, smooth, slippery feel on hair when it was dry
Reduce flyaway: "Flyaway" means that loose and streaming as if blown by the wind Shine: Shinier hair after use
Long-lasting feel: Long-lasting soft, smooth and slip feel on hair after the use
Build-up on hair (first use): feel weighed down and heavy on hair, very difficult to style and can often have an appearance of being dull and dirty hair
Anti-static: Make your hair smoother and less frizzy
Table 2 3 Hair conditioners assessment protocol
1 Soak hair tresses in ethyl alcohol over night
2 Soak hair tresses in water and then drain out
3 Soak hair tresses in 5% SLES over night
- Frist cycle: rubbing with 5% SLS for 30s and rinse out it with water for 30 secs
- Second cycle: rubbing with 5% SLS for 30s and rinse out it with water for 30s
- Third cyle: rubbing with 5% SLS for 30s and rinse out it with water for 60s
5 Hang all hair tresses over night
1 Weight hair tresses and collect as an initial weight
2 Wet the hair with running water and squeeze the water out from top to end of hair tresses
3 Put the shampoo (5% SLS) (0.1 gm of shampoo per 1gm of hair)
5 Rinse with running water for 60secs and repeat step 3-5 for 3 times
1 Put the conditioner sample (0.25 gr of conditioner per 1gm of hair)
3 Rinse with running water for 60 secs
4 Towel and blow until reach 95% dryness
Stability evaluation
The stability of cosmetics must align with the expected usage period and user requirements to ensure product quality It is essential to consider the time needed for distribution from manufacturer to consumer and the actual usage duration Stability tests assess whether a product maintains its physicochemical properties throughout its lifetime, making it crucial to evaluate not only the performance and sensory experience but also safety and stability during use and disposal Manufacturers typically decide on specialized testing based on the specific vulnerabilities of the cosmetic product and its anticipated shipping, storage, display, and usage conditions Common testing procedures help predict how well cosmetics withstand common stresses, such as temperature extremes.
Centrifugal separation testing is crucial for assessing the stability of oil-in-water emulsions, as it reveals the tendency of the dispersed phase to separate and rise, forming a layer of oil droplets known as creaming This phenomenon is an early indicator of potential emulsion instability and warrants careful attention Following the centrifugation process at 3,000 rpm for 30 minutes, as per Cognis centrifuge methods for creamy samples, it is essential to inspect the product for any signs of creaming or phase separation The presence of these indicators suggests that the emulsion is unstable.
High temperature retention testing has become a standard method for predicting the long-term stability of products When a product is stored at temperatures of 45°C and 15°C (with a maximum of 40°C for temperature-sensitive ingredients) for one month and demonstrates acceptable stability, it indicates that the product is likely to remain stable at room temperature for up to one year.
Cyclical temperature testing involves storing initial samples at room temperature before placing them at 45 °C for 24 hours, followed by a shift to 10 °C for another 24 hours This process is repeated for a total of six cycles After each cycle, the external appearance of the product is examined for signs of cotton or phase separation, which indicate instability If the product successfully endures five cycles without these issues, it demonstrates a good degree of stability.
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
Cream base formula
An analysis of rinse-off hair conditioner ingredients reveals several key components: water serves as the continuous phase, while fatty alcohols appear in wax form Cationic surfactants, along with active ingredients like amines and cationic polymers, contribute to conditioning Additionally, oil constituents such as silicones, vegetable oils, and esters enhance the formula Various additives, including fragrances, rheology modifiers, preservatives, texture enhancers, nonionic surfactants, and pH regulators, are also included The complexity of these formulations arises from the strategic use of each ingredient's benefits, with many serving similar functions Ultimately, the cream base is crafted from the most effective ingredients for each role.
Texture plays a crucial role in product formulation, with waxy materials serving as key bodying agents Fatty alcohols are commonly used ingredients, and the carbon chain length and alkyl group structure significantly influence the cream's viscosity and user experience.
Branched-chain alkyl groups create creams with lower viscosity compared to linear-chain alkyl groups due to steric effects The viscosity of linear alkyl groups is influenced by their HLB value, with lauryl (C12) and myristyl (C14) alcohols providing a lighter texture that is not ideal for rinse-off products In contrast, cetyl (C16) alcohol yields the most viscous creams, offering a fine texture and pleasant user experience While other ingredients can fulfill similar roles, acetyl alcohol serves as an effective stiffening agent According to references [12, 13], the recommended concentration of fatty alcohol as a bodying agent ranges from 2 to 10% (w/w), with the cream base in this case containing 9% (w/w) cetyl alcohol.
Cationic active ingredients (cationic surfactant, cationic polymer, amine, amine oxide) bind to the negative site on hair by the positive charge and give the feel of use by the
Cationic surfactants, particularly quaternary ammonium compounds (quats), serve as effective conditioning agents and dominant emulsifiers in hair care products due to their versatility, availability, and cost-effectiveness The properties of these surfactants, such as the number, length, and structure of their fatty chains, significantly influence their performance; while an increase in hydrophobic chains enhances lubricity and shine, it can also reduce emulsification capacity due to steric hindrance Consequently, monofatty quats are preferred over trif fatty quats in cream formulations Additionally, longer alkyl chains in mono-line quats increase hydrophobicity, leading to better hair deposition Among coupled ions, chloride exhibits superior emulsification properties compared to bromide and various sulfates, making behentrimonium chloride the most suitable choice, as evidenced by its presence in four out of six commercial hair conditioners It is recommended that formulators maintain an optimal concentration of around 2% while being mindful of potential eye irritation.
Silicone is a key ingredient in haircare products, particularly conditioners, due to its ability to enhance hair texture and provide various benefits Often, multiple silicones are blended to optimize their deposition efficiency on hair Highly hydrophobic silicones like dimethicone are ideal for healthy hair, while hydrophilic modified silicones such as amodimethicone effectively adhere to damaged strands Despite this trend, some products, including the one in focus, solely utilize dimethiconol In rinse-off conditioners, silicones need to be incorporated into the aqueous phase to fully realize their sensory benefits; however, their difficulty in dispersing can diminish conditioning effects To maximize performance, silicones should be emulsified prior to use Silsoft E50, a specialized silicone emulsion for hair care, combines dimethiconol with TEA-Dodecylbenzensulfonate as an emulsifier, enhancing its effectiveness.
34 an instruction for use, the allowable content range 0 to 10% (w/w) The concentration of this ingredient in cream base is 5%
D-Panthenol (Pro-VB5) is a popular ingredient in cosmetic Adding this ingredient to give the long lasting moisturisation, improve the manageability of the hair, reduce the formation of split ends and improve the condition of damaged hair [3] It can penetrate in the hair shaft and is metabolised to pantothenic acid (vitamin B5), a natural constituent of healthy hair, and so D-Panthenol acts as nourishing agent At high concentration, it can create a rough cuticle surface and lead to frizz due to swelling of the hair shaft Based on the obtained result of DSM Company, the appropriate content of D-Panthenol in rinse-off hair conditioner can extend to 1% (w/w)
The formulation of the cream includes several key auxiliary ingredients to enhance its properties Glycerin is added at a concentration of 3% (w/w) to serve as a humectant, providing moisture to the hair and improving freeze-thaw stability Additional components include preservatives such as DMDMH, a fragrance, a pH adjuster like citric acid, and the chelating agent EDTA-2Na The basic formula is detailed in Table 3.1, showcasing the original cream's formulation.
Table 3 1 The formulation of original cream
Phase Ingredients INCI Name Content (%)
EDTA – 2Na Disodium ethylene diamine tetraacetate 0.05
Citric acid Citric acid pH = 4.5 - 5.0
Figure 3 1 Mixing procedure of ceam base
Commercial product survey
The primary objective of this project is to develop a new hair conditioner specifically for the domestic market, making this survey crucial for identifying current trends However, due to the wide variety of commercial hair conditioners available, it is essential to establish a clear set of criteria to effectively select the most suitable product.
The level of product significantly influences the concept of hair care, yet there is no standardized method for categorizing the hair care market, as it is perceived subjectively by customers The hair conditioner market can be segmented into low-end, mid-range, and high-end categories based on price To achieve comprehensive results, it is essential to examine all segments This survey focuses on two products from each category, selected from popular brands within the same product line The targeted products must not only fulfill the fundamental function of a hair conditioner but also excel in sensory evaluation, making smoothness a key attribute for selection.
Commercial product for the market survey present at Figure 3.2, the results are summarized in Table 3.2 and the detailed result are displayed in Appendix 2
The dry matter measurement indicated on the label reflects current formulation trends, revealing that low-end segment raw materials have the lowest quality While Sunsilk contains 30 ingredients, its dry matter content is the lowest among competitors, as many ingredients serve marketing purposes, such as plant extracts and vegetable oils In contrast, Rejoice has only half the number of ingredients compared to Sunsilk, yet its dry matter content is higher This brand emphasizes scent, using simpler ingredients to achieve basic sensory appeal Additionally, the difference in product forms—Sunsilk as a lotion and Rejoice as a cream—may be attributed to varying levels of waxy materials, particularly fatty alcohols.
The mid-range segment is characterized by the highest dry matter content, with formulations lacking marketing-driven ingredients and featuring low levels of nourishing and intensive agents The combination of high dry matter and a creamy texture indicates a significant use of fatty alcohols, while the presence of waxy materials necessitates the addition of esters to enhance compatibility among oily components In contrast, the high-end segment boasts a dry matter content of approximately 6%, achieved through a skillful blend of components that enhance sensory evaluation The inclusion of intensive and nourishing agents complicates the manufacturing process, and the presence of antioxidants suggests a high concentration of easily oxidized ingredients, such as plant extracts and oils, rather than mere marketing gimmicks Despite similarities in cream base characteristics with the mid-range segment, the product's classification ultimately hinges on its pricing, influenced by various factors, particularly advertising.
37 charge, so there is only a limitation the price of raw materials at 40,000 - 50,000 VND/1kg products
The needle penetration value is inversely related to viscosity, with a maximum value of 2.00 cm for the target product, indicating that thicker, creamier rinse-off hair conditioners are often perceived as more effective Although viscosity is primarily influenced by the packaging, it shows some similarity to shampoo Additionally, the pH value of commercial hair conditioners typically falls between 3.00 and 5.50, a range that tightens the hair cuticle, reduces porosity, and enhances shine Consequently, the pH of the target product is also maintained within this optimal range.
Analyzing the obtained results of the sensory test suggests that:
(1) Enhancing the smoothness, the glossiness, the softness of the texture and the minimum of average score of the appearance evaluation is 3.4
(2) Improving the wet hair feel to achieve 3.2 in the performance evaluation
Figure 3 2 Commercial hair conditioner as referred products
38 Figure 3 3 The general properties examination of commercial products
Figure 3 4 Appearance sensory evaluation of commercial products
Table 3 2 The result of the market survey
40 Figure 3 5 Performance sensory evaluation of commercial products
Studying effects of ingredients
The influence of cetyl alcohol was investigated at different concentration The content was fixed initially at 3% and was increased to 11% every 2% apart in CEA series
The CEA series exhibits general properties illustrated in Figure 3.6, with a pH value of approximately 4.00, indicating minimal impact on the pH system Additionally, the needle penetration test demonstrates that an increased concentration of cetyl alcohol leads to higher viscosity, with an optimal range for cetyl alcohol as a viscosity agent between 3% and 7%.
Figure 3.7 illustrates the impact of cetyl alcohol on the appearance of the cream Initially, higher levels of cetyl alcohol lead to a decline in visual quality, as it acts as a consistency agent, resulting in a harder and thicker texture At elevated concentrations, the cream base becomes coarse and grainy, while lower concentrations render the cream too soft and lacking in consistency.
The performance evaluation results, illustrated in Figure 3.8, indicate that cetyl alcohol primarily enhances smoothness and slipperiness, leading to an improved average score However, this enhancement is accompanied by a significant decrease in rinsability, resulting in a greasy sensation on both hands and hair.
In the evaluation of various formulations, CE3.00 resembles a lotion but does not meet the target criteria, while CE11.00 presents challenges in application due to its excessively hard texture CE5.00 was discarded as its average performance score fell below the acceptable standard Both CE7.00 and CE9.00 yielded similar results in sensory testing Ultimately, CEA7.00 emerged as the most suitable choice, indicating that a 7% concentration of cetyl alcohol is optimal for performance.
43 Figure 3 6 Effects of cetyl alcohol on general properties
Figure 3 7 Effects of cetyl alcohol on appearance
44 Figure 3 9 Performance sensory evaluation of CEA series
The effectiveness of these conditioning agents was evaluated through two primary methods: the total content, referred to as the TBS series, and the ratio of the agents, known as the RBS series.
In the TBS series, the BTAC to Silsoft E-50 ratio was established at 1:2.5 to identify the optimal content for these materials Meanwhile, in the SBS series, a specific total content of the conditioning agent was maintained to ascertain the ideal ratio between the components.
Table 3 3 The experiment schedule of TBS and RBS series
The TBS series exhibits varying pH values that remain within a safe range for hair care The addition of BTAC, a waxy material, significantly increases viscosity, while Silsoft E50 tends to lower it Results from the needle penetration test confirm that viscosity rises with higher concentrations of BTAC, indicating its greater impact on viscosity compared to Silsoft E50.
The appearance evaluation of the TBS series indicated that the average score decreased as the total content of the conditioning agent increased Generally, incorporating more waxy materials resulted in a creamier texture that was harder and thicker, whereas the addition of liquid materials had a contrasting effect.
The study revealed that increasing the proportions of BTAC and Silsoft E-50 led to a decline in hair smoothness and softness, with BTAC having a more pronounced effect on appearance than Silsoft E-50 The performance evaluations of the TBS and RBS series showed similar results, indicating that the average sensory score remained consistent as the total content of conditioning agents increased While adding more Silsoft E-50 improved blendability into the hair, it negatively impacted spreadability Rinsability remained unaffected due to Silsoft E-50's emulsion nature Conditioning agents deposit on hair, enhancing lubrication and hydrophobicity, which contributes to a slippery, smooth, and soft feel while reducing combing forces The interlocking network formed by the polymerization of dimethiconol provides conditioning benefits, but concentrations above B3.00-S7.50 resulted in increased rigidity of the hair surface.
50 After all, 7% of conditioning agent (B2.00-S5.00) was selected for the next experiments
The general properties and appearance of the RBS series, illustrated in Figures 3.12 and 3.13, demonstrate that increasing the BTAC content while decreasing Silsoft E-50 allows for a clearer assessment of BTAC's effects compared to the TBS series.
The performance evaluation of the RBS series, illustrated in Figure 3.14, indicates a decline in average scores, primarily attributed to insufficient silicone, which negatively affects the texture of dry hair Additionally, the low concentration of silicone proved ineffective in enhancing the hydrophobicity of the hair surface, resulting in a lack of softness Increasing the content of BTAC significantly reduced fly-away hair and added shine; however, formulators must be cautious of potential eye irritation associated with high concentrations of cationic surfactants Overall, the ratios of these conditioning agents remained unchanged.
47 Figure 3 8 Effect of total conditioning agent content on general properties
Figure 3 9 Appearance sensory evaluation of TBS series
48 Figure 3 10 Performance sensory evaluation of TBS series
49 Figure 3 11 Effects of ratio of conditioning agents on general properties
Figure 3 12 Appearance sensory evaluation of RBS series
50 Figure 3 13 Performance sensory evaluation of RBS series
Belsil® ADM 331 enhances the sensory experience of wet hair, as stated by the manufacturer Its effects were examined at low concentrations in the BE#1 series and at high concentrations in the BE#2 series.
Table 3 4 Content of Belsil® ADM 331 Sample code Content (%) Sample code Content (%)
The general properties of the BE#1 and BE#2 series are illustrated in Figures 3.15 and 3.18 At lower concentrations of Belsil, the pH value remained around 4.00, while higher concentrations led to fluctuations within a safe range for hair Additionally, increasing the amount of Belsil caused a decrease in viscosity.
The appearance evaluation of the BE#1 and BE#2 series, illustrated in Figures 3.16 and 3.19, shows that the average score remained consistent as the content of Belsil® ADM331 increased This silicone emulsion exhibited a similar impact on texture as Silsoft E50.
The performance evaluation of the BE#1 and BE#2 series, illustrated in Figures 3.17 and 3.20, highlights the benefits of Belsil® ADM 331, an emulsion of amodimethicone known for its conditioning properties This ingredient contains an amino-functional group that becomes positively charged at low pH, allowing it to bond effectively with damaged hair Notably, the positive effects on hair feel were first observed at a concentration of 0.40% Increasing the amount of Belsil® ADM 331 significantly enhanced the wet feel; however, higher concentrations led to increased rigidity in the hair surface, similar to Silsoft E50, due to the potential for amodimethicone and dimethiconol to form polymer networks Therefore, a concentration of 0.4% Belsil® ADM 331 is deemed optimal for achieving desired conditioning effects.
Figure 3 14 Effects of Belsil® ADM 311 at low content on general properties
Figure 3 15 Appearance sensory evaluation of BE#1 series
Figure 3 16 Performance sensory evaluation of BE#1 series
54 Figure 3 17 Effects of Belsil® ADM 311 at high content on general properties
Figure 3 18 Appearance sensory evaluation of BE#2 serieres
55 Figure 3 19 Performance sensory evaluation of BE#2 series
Evaluating stability of product
The centrifugation test is an effective method for predicting emulsion creaming in both powder and liquid/cream products by applying centrifugal force Considered the quickest stability assessment, the test involves centrifuging samples at 3,000 rpm for 30 minutes The results showed no signs of emulsion degradation, indicating that the target product successfully passed the stability test.
Figure 3 32 Results of centrifugal seperation test
Storing product at 45 0 C, 15 0 C in 4 week and check the general properties, the sensory effects before and after proceeding with 1 week evaluation period
The general properties of the product stored at 45°C remained largely unchanged, as illustrated in Figure 3.34, with no significant performance evaluation changes observed during the preservation period However, there was a slight decrease in smoothness and softness, likely attributed to water loss As summarized in Table 3.5, manual checks showed no noticeable differences in color and odor throughout the preservation period; nonetheless, color analysis indicated a tendency toward yellowing, potentially due to the yellowing effects of silicone, particularly amodimethicone.
Table 3 5 Changes in color and odor when store at 45 0 C
When stored at 15°C, the L value of the product gradually decreased, indicating a darkening of its color (refer to Table 3.6) Additionally, there was a minor reduction in smoothness and softness, while other characteristics remained unchanged Despite these slight changes, they were deemed acceptable, allowing the product to pass the test successfully.
Table 3 6 Changes in color and odor when store at 15 0 C
69 Figure 3 33 General properties changes when storing at 45 o C
Figure 3 34 Appearance changes when storing at 45 o C Figure 3 35 Performance changes when storing at 45 o C
70 Figure 3 36 General properties changes when storing at 15 o C
Figure 3 37 Appearance changes when storing at 15 o C Figure 3 38 Performance changes when storing at 15 o C
Initial samples were stored at 45 °C for 24 hours, then transferred to 15 °C for another 24 hours After five cycles, the general properties and performance of the samples remained stable Testing results for color and odor changes are detailed in Table 3.7 Manual checks did not reveal significant differences in color or odor during the preservation period; however, color parameters indicated a slight yellowing and darkening of the product These changes were minor compared to those observed in the temperature retention test, allowing the product to pass this evaluation Based on the results of these three tests, the estimated shelf life of the product is approximately 12 months.
Table 3 7 Changes in color and ordor during cyclical teamperature test
72 Figure 3 39 General properties changes during cyclical temperature test
Figure 3 40 Appearance change during cyclical temperature test Figure 3 41 Performance change during cyclical temperature test
Investigating the penetration of product
Before releasing the trial product, some experiments need to be conducted in laboratory to ensure product quality and safety for users
Testing on hair panels revealed that all samples became smoother and more manageable after using the target product The volume-building index was assessed by measuring the hair shaft dimensions before and after application, as detailed in Table 3.8 The results indicated that the volume-enhancing capability of the target product surpassed that of several high-end commercial conditioners, highlighting a significant advantage for the target product in the market.
In a recent experiment involving six volunteers, comprised of three men and three women with diverse hair types, participants reported increased comfort and enhanced vitality in their hair after use (see Figure 3.44).
(3) Skin irritation was checked to ensure the safety for consumer After 2 day, not recognized any irritation Figure 3.45 are the skin surface before and after testing
A trial product was released, and consumers completed an attached questionnaire to receive an objective assessment of its quality Thirty volunteers participated in the survey, providing insights on their personal information, current hair situation, product performance evaluation, and price estimation Two key results emerged from the findings.
The average consumer perception score for sensory effects is 3.7, while the overall evaluation stands at 3.8, indicating a high level of accuracy in the survey results With a minimum detailed score of 3, the target product is considered to be at a good level Additionally, the appearance of the sample received positive feedback, further reinforcing its appeal.
(2) Over 70% of volunteers (22/30) were willing to pay from 50,000 to 70,000 VND for 1bottle / 250g Besides, the raw material charge for 1 kg product was only 32,000
Table 3 8 The examination about ability to volume-up hair strand
Brand Sunsilk Rejoice Pantene Enchanteur Tsubaki L'oreal Target product
Figure 3 44 Results of skin irritation
Table 3 9 The raw material charge for 1kg product
Raw material charge for 1 kg product 32,120
The main goal of project is to achieve a new release product intended for the domestic market to improve the sensory effects of hair conditioners from original formula
The prototype of product was made out of the basic ingredients, in other words, provided a basic benefit of hair conditioners for hair as well as the feel of use
To effectively position both the original and target products, two offerings from well-known brands within the same smoothness category were selected based on an internal market survey The target characteristics identified include: (i) belonging to the mid-range segment, (ii) a pH level between 3.5 and 5.5, (iii) a raw material cost of 40,000 to 50,000 VND per kilogram, and (iv) minimum average scores of 3.4 for appearance tests and 3.2 for performance tests.
The study focused on the effects of key ingredients, including cetyl alcohol, conditioning agents, and rheological additives, to determine their optimal content for enhancing product texture Additionally, Belsil® ADM 331 was incorporated at a concentration of 0.4% (w/w) to improve the wet feel of the product Laboratory tests predicted a shelf life of approximately one year for the final formulation.
After trial period on consumers, the appearance and the feel in use of research product was evaluate at good (4/5) grade with high accuracy level Over 70% of volunteers
A survey revealed that 22 out of 30 participants were ready to pay between 50,000 and 70,000 VND for a 250g bottle, while the raw material cost for producing 1 kg of the product was only 32,000 VND This indicates that the products are priced competitively and offer good value for consumers.
In conclusion, the research product is available for commercial purpose
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[3] C Zviak, The Science of Hair Care Taylor & Francis, 1986
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[6] T Mitsui, New cosmetic science Elsevier, 1997
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Technology, Fourth Edition Taylor & Francis, 2014
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Surgical, and Cosmetic Treatments CRC Press, 2018
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[12] H Iwata and K Shimada, "Formulas, Ingredients and Production of
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Appendix 1 The ingredients of commercial product in dosmetic market survey
Sunsilk's Nourishing Soft & Smooth formula features a blend of key ingredients designed to enhance hair health and texture This includes moisturizing agents like glycerin, natural oils such as Camellia oleifera seed oil, coconut oil, sweet almond oil, olive fruit oil, and argan oil The product also contains conditioning agents like behentrimonium chloride and cetrimonium chloride, which help detangle and soften hair Additionally, the presence of dimethicone and amodimethicone provides smoothness and shine, while lactic acid and sodium chloride contribute to overall hair vitality With its unique combination of nourishing components, Sunsilk aims to deliver silky, manageable hair.
Rejoice Perfume Smooth is formulated with a blend of key ingredients, including water, stearyl alcohol, and behentrimonium methosulfate, which work together to provide hydration and smoothness The inclusion of bis-aminopropyl dimethicone and cetyl alcohol enhances the product's conditioning properties, while jasmine flower and leaf extract add a touch of natural fragrance Preservatives such as methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone ensure product safety and longevity This carefully crafted formula delivers a luxurious scent and effective hair care benefits.
Pantene Pro-V Smooth & Silky is formulated with a blend of key ingredients designed to enhance hair smoothness and shine Its primary components include water, stearyl alcohol, and behentrimonium chloride, which work together to condition and detangle hair The inclusion of bis-aminopropyl dimethicone provides added moisture and protection, while panthenol and panthenyl ethyl ether help to strengthen and nourish the hair Additional ingredients such as citric acid and histidine contribute to maintaining hair health The formula also contains preservatives like methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone to ensure product longevity.
Enchanteur - Super smooth: Water, cetearyl alcohol, isopropyl myristate, cetrimonium chloride, amodimethicone, dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, fragance, propylene glylcol, behentrimonium chloride, cetearyl stearate, paraffin, panthenyl ethyl ether,
79 panthenol, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone
Tsubaki - Smooth is formulated with a blend of nourishing ingredients including water, glycerin, and various alcohols such as stearyl and cetyl alcohol, which provide hydration and smoothness The product features conditioning agents like behentrimonium chloride and dimethicone, alongside natural extracts such as camellia japonica seed oil, citrus lemon fruit extract, and royal jelly extract, enhancing its moisturizing properties Additionally, it contains salicylic acid for scalp health and phenoxyethanol as a preservative With a combination of these elements, Tsubaki - Smooth aims to deliver soft, manageable hair while ensuring a pleasant fragrance.
L’oreal - Keratin smooth: Water, cetearyl alcohol, behentrimonium chloride, cetyl esters, tocopherol, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydrolyzed elastin, sodium benzoate, phenoxylethanol, arginime, Nigella sativa seed oil, trideceth-
6, chlohexidine digluconate, Camellia oleifera seed oil, limonene, linalool, benzyl alcohol, benzyl salicylate, amodimethicone, isopropyl alcohol, fragance, serine, citric acid, citronellol
Appendix 2 The detailed results of general properties
Round 1 Round 2 Round 3 Round 4 Round 5 Average Round 1 Round 2 Round 3 Average
Temperature variation in cylical temperature test
Appendix 3 The obtained results of sensory evaluation
Properties Sensory evalutaion of commercial products - Round 1
Sunsilk Rejoice Pantene Enchanteur Tsubaki L'oreal Cream base
Form of sample Lotion Cream Lotion Cream
Properties Sensory evalutaion of commercial products - Round 2
Sunsilk Rejoice Pantene Enchanteur Tsubaki L'oreal Cream base
Form of sample Lotion Cream Lotion Cream
Properties Sensory evalutaion of commercial products
Sunsilk Rejoice Pantene Enchanteur Tsubaki L'oreal Cream base
Form of sample Lotion Cream Lotion Cream
Properties Sensory evalutaion of CEA series - Round 1
CE3.00 CE5.00 CE7.00 CE9.00 CE11.00
Form of sample Lotion Cream
Properties Sensory evalutaion of CEA series - Round 2
CE3.00 CE5.00 CE7.00 CE9.00 CE11.00
Form of sample Lotion Cream
Properties Sensory evalutaion of CEA series
CE3.00 CE5.00 CE7.00 CE9.00 CE11.00
Form of sample Lotion Cream
Properties Sensory evalutaion of TBS series - Round 1
Properties Sensory evalutaion of TBS series - Round 2
Properties Sensory evalutaion of RBS series - Round 1
Properties Sensory evalutaion of RBS series - Round 2
Properties Sensory evalutaion of RBS series
Properties Sensory evalutaion of BE#1 series - Round 1
BE0.00 BE0.20 BE0.40 BE0.60 BE0.80
Properties Sensory evalutaion of BE#1 series - Round 2
BE0.00 BE0.20 BE0.40 BE0.60 BE0.80
Properties Sensory evalutaion of BE#1 series
BE0.00 BE0.20 BE0.40 BE0.60 BE0.80
Properties Sensory evalutaion of BE#2 series - Round 1
BE1.00 BE2.00 BE3.00 BE4.00 BE5.00
Properties Sensory evalutaion of BE#2 series - Round 2
BE1.00 BE2.00 BE3.00 BE4.00 BE5.00
Properties Sensory evalutaion of BE#2 series
BE1.00 BE2.00 BE3.00 BE4.00 BE5.00
Properties Sensory evalutaion of HE series - Round 1
HE0.00 HE0.40 HE0.80 HE1.20 HE1.60
Properties Sensory evalutaion of HE series - Round 2
HE0.00 HE0.40 HE0.80 HE1.20 HE1.60
Properties Sensory evalutaion of HE series
HE0.00 HE0.40 HE0.80 HE1.20 HE1.60
Properties Sensory evalutaion of SC series - Round 1
SC0.00 SC0.25 SC0.50 SC0.75 SC1.00 SC1.25
Properties Sensory evalutaion of SC series - Round 1
SC0.00 SC0.25 SC0.50 SC0.75 SC1.00 SC1.25
Properties Sensory evalutaion of SC series - Round 1
SC0.00 SC0.25 SC0.50 SC0.75 SC1.00 SC1.25
Properties Sensory evalutaion of SC series - Round 2
SC0.00 SC0.25 SC0.50 SC0.75 SC1.00 SC1.25
Properties Sensory evalutaion of SC series
SC0.00 SC0.25 SC0.50 SC0.75 SC1.00 SC1.25
Properties Sensory evalutaion of HS series - Round 1
Properties Sensory evalutaion of HS series - Round 2
Properties Sensory evalutaion of HS series
Properties Scaling-up experiment - Round 1
Sc-100 Sc-200 Sc-300 Sc-400 Sc-500 Sc-600
Properties Scaling-up experiment - Round 2
Sc-100 Sc-200 Sc-300 Sc-400 Sc-500 Sc-600
Sc-100 Sc-200 Sc-300 Sc-400 Sc-500 Sc-600
Initial Week 1 Week 2 Week 3 Week 4
Initial Week 1 Week 2 Week 3 Week 4
Initial Week 1 Week 2 Week 3 Week 4
Initial Week 1 Week 2 Week 3 Week 4
Initial Week 1 Week 2 Week 3 Week 4
Initial Week 1 Week 2 Week 3 Week 4
Properties Cylical temperature test - Round 1
Initial Cycle 1 Cycle 2 Cycle 3 Cycle 4 Cycle 5
Properties Cylical temperature test - Round 2
Initial Cycle 1 Cycle 2 Cycle 3 Cycle 4 Cycle 5
Initial Cycle 1 Cycle 2 Cycle 3 Cycle 4 Cycle 5
Question Type of question Answers
2 Gender Multiple choice (1) Male (2) Female
Frequency of using hair conditioner
Multiple choice (1) After shampooing (2) Not combined with shampoo
8 Product quality ( scoring sytem in this questionaire and this thesis are alike)
(1) Appearance (2) Smooth and slip feel (3) Greasy feel
Appendix 5 Results of product quality evaluation
Name Gender Age Profession Current hair situation Frequency of using Consumers habit
1 Phùng Chí Phúc Male 17 - 22 Student Virgin hair Rarely After shampooing
2 Dương Công Thành Male Under 16 Student Styling Rarely After shampooing
3 Đinh Công Thiện Nhân Male 17 - 22 Student Virgin hair Rarely After shampooing
4 Bùi Thị Kim Chi Female 31 - 50 Other Virgin hair Frequently After shampooing
5 Nguyễn Bảo Tâm Female 16 - 22 Student Styling Frequently After shampooing
6 Nguyễn Thị Phương Thảo Female 23 - 30 Student Styling Rarely After shampooing
7 Dương Thị Như Ý Female 16 - 22 Student Styling Frequently After shampooing
8 Nguyễn Thị Tuyết Ngân Female 16 - 22 Student Styling Rarely After shampooing
9 Bùi Nhật Trúc Quân Female 16 - 22 Student Styling Frequently After shampooing
10 Nguyễn Thị Phương Uyên Female 23 - 30 Student Styling Rarely After shampooing
11 Trần Diệu Thanh Thùy Female 23 - 30 Student Styling Frequently After shampooing
12 Nguyễn Thị Hồng Hạnh Female 23 - 30 Student Styling Rarely After shampooing
13 Đinh Hồng Cẩm Tú Female 17 - 22 Student Styling Rarely After shampooing
14 Nguyễn Tiến Hồng Phương Female Above 50 Labor Styling Rarely After shampooing
15 Trương Thị Hồng Ánh Female 17 - 22 Student Virgin hair Rarely After shampooing
16 ương Thị Thu Huy n Female 17 - 22 Student Virgin hair Rarely After shampooing
17 Hà Thị Trinh Female 17 - 22 Student Tóc đã qua tạo kiểu Rarely After shampooing
18 Huỳnh Thị Kim Ngà Female 17 - 22 Student Virgin hair Rarely After shampooing
19 Dương Thanh Tâm Female Uder 16 Student Virgin hair Frequently After shampooing
20 Nguyễn Đào Phương Thanh Female 17 - 22 Student Virgin hair Frequently After shampooing
21 Huỳnh Như Female 17 - 22 Student Regularly styling Rarely After shampooing
22 Đinh Hồng Ngọc Bích Female 22 - 30 Officer Styling Rarely After shampooing
23 Đặng Hà Hoàng Bảo Male 17 - 22 Student Styling Rarely After shampooing
24 Nguyễn Trí Tân Male 17 - 22 Student Virgin hair Rarely After shampooing
25 Phạm đăng phùng Male 17 - 22 Student Styling Rarely After shampooing
26 ê Hoàng Anh Male 17 - 22 Student Styling Frequently After shampooing
27 Nguyễn Minh Tuy n Female 17 - 22 Student Tóc đã qua tạo kiểu Frequently After shampooing
28 Nguyễn Phạm Như Ngọc Female 17 - 22 Student Virgin hair Frequently After shampooing
29 ương Tuấn Tùng Male 17 - 22 Student Virgin hair Rarely After shampooing
30 ê Huỳnh Tú Mỹ Female 17 - 22 Student Styling Frequently After shampooing
Appearance Smooth, slip Greasy feel Easily comb General Irritation Overall Price