Pocket Rough Guide HONG KONG AND MACAU written and researched by DAVID LEFFMAN Contents INTRODUCTION Hong Kong and Macau at a glance Itineraries BEST OF HONG KONG AND MACAU 12 Big sights 14 Festivals 16 Museums 18 Dining 20 PLACES Hong Kong Island: Central and around 30 Hong Kong Island: Wan Chai, Causeway Bay and Happy Valley 48 Hong Kong Island: the south side 58 Kowloon: Tsim Sha Tsui 64 Urban pursuits 22 Outdoor trips 24 Markets 26 28 Kowloon: Jordan to Diamond Hill 74 The New Territories 84 Lantau 96 Lamma and Cheung Chau 102 Macau 106 ACCOMMODATION 122 ESSENTIALS 130 Arrival 132 Getting around 133 Directory A–Z 135 Festivals and events 140 > SHOPPING In Hong Kong, the downtown areas – Hong Kong Island’s north shore between Sheung Wan and Causeway Bay, and the Kowloon peninsula opposite, including Tsim Sha Tsui, Jordan and Mong Kok – are absolutely jammed with restaurants These cover all budgets and, along with native Cantonese cooking, quite a range of international cuisines In Macau the bias is towards Portuguese and indigenous Macanese dishes, with restaurants thickest around Largo Senado, though don’t overlook village locations at Taipa and Coloane Wherever you eat, expect brusque service, little elbow room and a hot and noisy atmosphere, just how the Chinese like it Thanks to the wonders of internet shopping, the affordable electronics gear Hong Kong was once so famous for is no longer a particularly good deal, though you will be able to lay your hands on just about every model and brand of computer, camera, mobile phone and MP3 player yet invented at specialist warehouses in Wan Chai, Mong Kok and Sham Shui Po Jewellery shops are everywhere in Central, Tsim Sha Tsui and Mong Kok, and the same goes for clothing, with various bargains available in Mong Kok, Sham Shui Po and on Ap Lei Chau island If you’re looking to shop for antiques, head to the dozens of galleries strung along Hollywood Road >> DRINKING >> NIGHTLIFE Macau has no real drinking culture, but Hong Kong’s bar scene focuses on Lan Kwai Fong in Central, where dozens of lively bars and pubs compete for the swarms of yuppies, office workers, expats and tourists that descend nightly It’s not hard to find somewhere to fit your mood, be it sports bar, Irish pub or quiet terrace Serious drinkers – mostly expats – gravitate east to seedier Wan Chai, while across the harbour in Tsim Sha Tsui you’ll find a thin scattering of Brit-style pubs Bars open from late afternoon through to the early hours; drinks are pricey, so look out for happy hours Clubs in Hong Kong fire up after about 9pm, though as most are located in the city’s bars, you can often get drinks before the music kicks off Expect DJs or house bands playing mainstream rock through to punk and jazz; Lan Kwai Fong’s bars lend themselves to more intimate events, with larger clubs and dance floors in Wan Chai and Tsim Sha Tsui’s Knutsford Terrace Hong Kong doesn't see many big international acts, though Cantopop and Mandopop stars – from Hong Kong, China and Taiwan – play at the Hong Kong Coliseum or Queen Elizabeth Stadium INTRODUCTION TO HONG KONG AND MACAU >> EATING OUR RECOMMENDATIONS FOR WHERE TO EAT, DRINK AND SHOP ARE LISTED AT THE END OF EACH CHAPTER Day One in Hong Kong ITINERARIES Victoria Park > p.50 Begin the day watching tai chi practitioners performing their slow-motion shadow-boxing routines in downtown Hong Kong’s largest public space Times Square > p.51 This is what Hong Kong is all about: cruising fashion boutiques in huge, multilevel malls Queen's Road East > p.49 A kilometre of quirky shops and the unusual Pak Tai and Hung Shing temples – not to mention ghostly Nam Koo Terrace Hong Kong Park > p.38 Attractive landscaped hillside right above busy Queensway; spot colourful tropical birds inside the walk-through Edward Youde Aviary Lunch > p.45 Drop into the • Lok Cha Tea House at the K.C Lo Gallery, for vegetarian dim sum Bank of China tower > p.35 This knife-shaped tower is a major player in the feng shui wars being waged in Hong Kong’s competitive financial district Hollywood Road > p.40 Antique stores, curio shops and art galleries surround the smoky Man Mo Temple, dedicated to the twin gods of war and culture Sheung Wan Market > p.41 A wholesale market for dried medicinal herbs, seafood and animal products Dinner >p.46 Time for a Cantonese blowout on roast • goose at Yung Kee restaurant in Central, before hitting Lan Kwai Fong for a nightcap Shek Pik Reservoir 上窰民俗文物館 Sheung Yiu Folk Museum 信德中心 Shun Tak Centre 嗇色園 Sik Sik Yuen Temple 香港太空館 Space Museum 皇后像廣場 Statue Square 大埔滘自然 Tai Po Kau Nature 護理區 Reserve 廟街夜市 Temple Street Night Market 萬佛寺 Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery 天壇大佛 Tian Tan Big Buddha 時代廣場 Times Square 天后廟 Tin Hau Temple 曾大屋圍村 Tsang Tai Uk Walled Village 維多利亞公園 Victoria Park 西港城 Western Market 香港動植物公園 Zoological and Botanical Gardens 石壁水塘 LANGUAGE STREETS 界限街 寶雲道 廣東道 德輔道 告士打道 加連威老街 軒尼詩道 荷李活道 蘭桂坊 利源東/西街 駱克道 南固臺 彌敦道 砵典乍街 皇后大道 皇后東大道 新填地街 上海街 太原街 146 TRANSPORT 巴士站 赤鱲角機場 中港碼頭 輕便鐵路車站 纜車總站 港澳碼頭 地下鐵車站 昂坪360 港外線碼頭 天星碼頭 Bus stop Hong Kong International Airport China Ferry Terminal LR station Lower Peak Tram Terminal Macau Ferry Terminal MTR station Ngong Ping 360 Outlying Islands Ferry Pier Star Ferry Pier Macau Sightseeing PLACES 媽閣 路環 澳門 外港 內港 氹仔 Barra Coloane Macau Porto Exterior Porto Interior Taipa SIGHTS Boundary Street Bowen Road Canton Road Des Voeux Road Gloucester Road Granville Road Hennessy Road Hollywood Road Lan Kwai Fong Li Yuen Street (east/west) Lockhart Road Nam Koo Terrace Nathan Road Pottinger Street Queen’s Road Queen’s Road East Reclamation Street Shanghai Street Tai Yuen Street 媽閣廟 基督教墳場 竹灣 路環市區 澳門漁人碼頭 東望洋山堡壘 大炮台 松山 黑沙海灘 康公廟 葡京酒店 盧廉若公園 白鴿巢賈梅 士花園 觀音堂 議事亭前地 議事亭 蓮峰廟 連溪廟 澳門文化中心 A-Ma Temple Cemitério Protestante Cheoc Van Coloane Village Fishermans’ Wharf Fortaleza da Guia Fortaleza Monte Guia Hill Hác Sá Beach Hong Kung Temple Lisboa Hotel Jardim Lou Lim Ieoc Jardim Luís de Camões Kun Iam Temple Largo Senado Leal Senado Lin Fong Temple Lin Kai Temple Macau Cultural Centre 港局大樓 紅街市 路環聖方濟各 教堂 仁慈堂大樓 聖澳斯定教堂 聖母玫瑰堂 大三巴牌坊 大堂 氹仔舊城區 伯多祿五世 劇院 三盞燈 Museu de Macau Museu Lin Zexu Museu Maritimo Pak Tai Temple Parque de Seac Pai Van Penha Chapel Portas de Cerco Pousada de São Tiago Quartel dos Mouros Red Market St Francis Xavier Chapel Santa Casa de Misericórdia Santo Agostinho São Domingos São Paulo Sé Taipa Village Teatro dom Pedro V Three Lamps District 天后古廟 Tin Hau Temple 威尼斯人度假村 The Venetian STREETS 友誼大馬路 民國大馬路 新馬路 南灣大馬路 龍嵩正街 福隆新街 草堆街 十月初五街 河邊新街 板樟堂街 Avenida da Amizade Avenida da Republica Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro Praia Grande Rua Central Rua da Felicidade Rua das Estalagens Rua de Cinco de Outubro Rua Almirante Sérgio Rua Sul Mercado de São Domingos TRANSPORT 蛇口碼頭 港澳碼頭 澳門機場 China Ferry Terminal Jetfoil Terminal Macau Airport Useful words SOME CANTONESE SIGNS 入口 出口 廁所 男廁 女廁 營業中 休業 到達 出發 休假 出故障 礦泉水 請勿吸煙 危險 關稅 公共汽車 渡船 火車 飛幾場 警察 飯店 賓館 野營位置 海灘 禁止游泳 Entrance Exit Toilets Gentlemen Ladies Open Closed Arrivals Departures Closed for holidays Out of order Drinking/mineral water No Smoking Danger Customs Bus Ferry Train Airport Police Restaurant Hotel Campsite Beach No Swimming LANGUAGE 澳門博物館 林則徐博物館 海事博物館 北帝廟 石排灣郊野 公園 主教山教堂 關閘 聖地牙哥 SOME PORTUGUESE WORDS Alfândega Avenida Baía Beco Bilheteira Calỗada Correios Edificio Estrada Farmỏcia Farol Fortaleza Hospedaria Jardim Largo Lavabos Mercado Museu Customs Avenue Bay Alley Ticket office Cobbled street Post office Building Road Pharmacy Lighthouse Fortress Guesthouse Garden Square Toilets Market Museum 147 LANGUAGE Pensóo Ponte Pousada Praỗa Praia Rua Sé Travessa Vila Guesthouse Bridge Inn/Hotel Square Beach Street Cathedral Lane Guesthouse Hong Kong menu reader GENERAL 我食齋 菜單/英文菜單 筷子 刀/叉/匙羹 埋單 I’m vegetarian Menu/English menu Chopsticks Knife/fork/spoon Bill/cheque DRINKS 啤酒 咖啡 (礦泉) 水 葡萄酒 白酒 豆漿 茶 紅茶 綠茶 鐵觀音茶 香片茶 普洱茶 苦茶 五花茶 甘四味茶 Beer Coffee (Mineral) Water Wine Spirits Soya milk Tea Black tea Green tea “Iron Buddha” tea Jasmine tea Bo lei tea Medicinal tea Five-flower tea Twenty-four flavour tea STAPLE FOODS 竹筍 芽菜 豆角 牛肉 牛肉丸 豆豉醬 雞 辣椒 菜心 蟹 青瓜 鴨 148 Bamboo shoots Bean sprouts Beans Beef Beef ball Black bean sauce Chicken Chilli Chinese greens Crab Cucumber Duck 鰻 魚 蒜頭 薑 鵝 青椒 羊肉 味精 磨菇 麵條 蠔油 白鴿 豬肉 大蝦 蝦丸 河粉 白飯 鹽 芝麻油 湯 豉油 魚 糖 豆腐 醋 白蘿卜 Eel Fish Garlic Ginger Goose Green pepper Lamb MSG Mushrooms Noodles Oyster sauce Pigeon Pork Prawns Prawn balls Rice noodles Rice, boiled Salt Sesame oil Soup Soy sauce Squid Sugar Tofu/Beancurd Vinegar White radish COOKING METHODS 焙 沙鍋 煮 炒 白煮 烤 蒸 清炒 Casseroled Claypot/sandpot Boiled Fried Poached Roast Steamed Stir-fried MAIN DISHES 叉燒（飯） 豆腐湯 牛肉丸湯 燉鴨素菜 客家豆腐 筍尖嫩玉米 炒雞片 Barbecued pork (on rice) Beancurd soup Beef ball soup Braised duck with vegetables Casseroled beancurd stuffed with pork mince Chicken with bamboo shoots and baby corn Dim sum menu reader *named after the shape – they don’t contain shark’s fin Sweets Cold beancurd with syrup Coconut jelly Steamed sponge cake Mango pudding Sweet lotus-seed paste bun Egg-custard tart 腰果雞丁 蠔油芥蘭 沙鍋腊腸飯 豉汁焗蟹 Chicken with cashew nuts Chinese broccoli in oyster sauce Claypot rice with sweet sausage Crab with black beans 燒肉(飯) 蛋炒飯 魚丸湯 焙魚 清蒸魚 蝦餃 山竹牛肉 排骨 燒賣 叉燒飽 雞飽 牛肉腸粉 LANGUAGE Savouries Steamed prawn dumplings Steamed beef ball Steamed spare ribs Steamed pork and prawn dumpling Steamed bun stuffed with barbecued pork Steamed chicken bun Steamed rice-flour roll stuffed with beef Steamed rice packet stuffed with chicken, wrapped in a lotus leaf Deep-fried wonton with sweet and sour sauce Congee (rice porridge, flavoured with shredded meat and vegetables) Spring roll Radish cake Chicken feet Stuffed green peppers Taro/yam croquette Prawn rice roll Shark’s fin dumplings* Steamed fishballs Crispy-fried squid tentacles Fried rice-flour ball stuffed with meat Deep-fried beancurd roll with pork/shrimp Crystal-skinned dumpling "Thousand-year" preserved eggs 糯米雞 炸雲吞 粥 春卷 蘿蔔糕 鳳爪 煎釀青椒 芋角 蝦腸粉 魚翅餃 鯪魚球 炸鱿魚鬚 咸水角 鲜竹卷 潮洲粉果 皮蛋 豆腐花 椰汁糕 馬拉糕 芒果布甸 蓮蓉飽 蛋撻 Crisp-skinned pork (on rice) Egg fried rice Fish ball soup Fish casserole Fish steamed with ginger and spring onion 149 豆腐素菜 LANGUAGE 炒豆芽 檸檬雞 羅漢齋 湯麵 蒜頭炒蝦 燒鴨(飯) 燒鵝 客家鹽幾 豆豉青椒炒魚 豆豉蒸鰻 清炒竹筍 筍尖炒雞片 糖醋排骨 雲吞湯 Fried beancurd with vegetables Fried bean sprouts Lemon chicken Monks’ dish (stir-fry of vegetables and fungi) Noodle soup Prawn with garlic sauce Roast duck (on rice) Roast goose Salt-baked chicken Squid with green pepper and black beans Steamed eel with black beans Stir-fried bamboo shoots Stir-fried chicken and bamboo shoots Sweet and sour spare ribs Wonton soup Macau menu reader MEAT Almụndegas Bife Chouriỗo Coelho Cordoniz Costeleta Dobrada Figado Galinha Pombo Porco Salsicha FISH AND SEAFOOD Amêijoas Bacalhau Camarões Carangueijo Gambas Linguado Lulas Mexilhões Pescada Sardinhas Lunch Meals/dishes Dinner Dish/menu of the day Clams Dried, salted cod Shrimp Crab Prawns Sole Squid Mussels Hake Sardines SOUPS Caldo verde GENERAL Almoỗo Comidas Jantar Prato dia/Menu dia Meatballs Steak Spicy sausage Rabbit Quail Chop, cutlet Tripe stew Liver Chicken Pigeon Pork Sausage Sopa álentejana Sopa de mariscos Sopa de peixe Green cabbage and potato soup, often served with spicy sausage Garlic and bread soup with a poached egg Shellfish soup Fish soup BASICS AND SNACKS Arroz Batatas fritas Legumes Manteiga Omeleta Ovos Pimenta Prego Sal Salada mista Sandes 150 Rice French fries Vegetables Butter Omelette Eggs Pepper Steak roll Salt Mixed salad Sandwiches COOKING TERMS Assado Cozido Frito Grelhado No forno Roasted Boiled, stewed Fried Grilled Baked SPECIALITIES Camarões Huge grilled prawns with chillies and peppers Cataplana DRINKS Água mineral Café Chá Cerveja Sumo de laranja Vinho tinto Vinho branco Vinho Porto Vinho verde Mineral water Coffee Tea Beer Orange juice Red wine White wine Port (both red and white) young wine, slightly sparkling and refreshing; usually white Glossary AEL Airport Express Line, running between Hong Kong Island, Kowloon and HK International Airport at Chek Lap Kok A-Ma see “Tin Hau” Ancestral hall Temple hall where ancestral records and shrines are kept BOC Bank of China Dim sum Cantonese-style breakfast made up of a selection of small soups, dumplings and special dishes, served with tea Also known as yum cha Feng shui The belief that the arrangement of local landscape affects an area or building’s “luck” Gweilo European, foreigner Hakka Chinese ethnic group who live in distinctive clan villages Handover The formal handing back of Hong Kong by Britain to China in 1997 HKTB Hong Kong Tourist Board HSBC Hongkong and Shanghai Bank ICC International Commerce Centre – Hong Kong’s tallest building IFC2 International Finance Centre, Tower Kun Iam See “Kwun Yam” Kwun Yam The Chinese Boddhisattva of Mercy, especially prayed to by women wanting children and safe childbirth LEGCO Hong Kong’s Legislative Council Mainland China, excepting Hong Kong and Macau MTR Mass Transit Railway – Hong Kong’s urban rail network New Territories The area of Hong Kong between Kowloon and the Chinese border New Towns Self-contained satellite towns spread across the New Territories, designed to decentralize Hong Kong’s urban population Pastelaria Macanese sweet/savouries shop specializing in almond biscuits, peanut brittle and roast meats SAR Special Administrative Region of China, hence “Hong Kong SAR” and “Macau SAR” Though technically controlled by the Chinese government, SARs enjoy considerably more local autonomy and freedoms than is permitted on the mainland SARS Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome, a virus which killed 299 people in Hong Kong in 2003 Tin Hau Sea goddess and protector of fishermen; known as A-Ma in Macau Triad Organized crime gang, similar to the Mafia Yum cha see “dim sum” LANGUAGE Seafood with bacon, sausage and peppers Cozido Boiled casserole Portuguesa of mixed meats, rice and vegetables Galinha Africana Chicken baked with (African chicken) peppers and chillies Galinha Chicken baked Portuguesa with eggs, potatoes, onion and saffron in a curry sauce Feijoada Rich stew of beans, pork, sausage and vegetables Pasteis de Cod fishcakes, bacalhau deep-fried Porco álentejana Pork and clams in a stew Pudim flán Creme caramel Arroz doce Portuguese rice pudding 151 PUBLISHING INFORMATION SMALL PRINT This third edition published September 2016 by Rough Guides Ltd 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL 11, Community Centre, Panchsheel Park, New Delhi 110017, India Distributed by Penguin Random House Penguin Books Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL Penguin Group (USA) 345 Hudson Street, NY 10014, USA Penguin Group (Australia) 250 Camberwell Road, Camberwell, Victoria 3124, Australia Penguin Group (NZ) 67 Apollo Drive, Mairangi Bay, Auckland 1310, New Zealand Penguin Group (South Africa) Block D, Rosebank Office Park, 181 Jan Smuts Avenue, Parktown North, Gauteng, South Africa 2193 Rough Guides is represented in Canada by DK Canada 320 Front Street West, Suite 1400, Toronto, Ontario M5V 3B6 Typeset in Minion and Din to an original design by Henry Iles and Dan May Printed and bound in Malaysia © David Leffman 2016 Maps © Rough Guides No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher except for the quotation of brief passages in reviews 160pp includes index A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ISBN 978-0-24125-282-6 The publishers and authors have done their best to ensure the accuracy and currency of all the information in Pocket Rough Guide Hong Kong and Macau, however, they can accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by any traveller as a result of information or advice contained in the guide 135798642 ROUGH GUIDES CREDITS Text editors: Emma Gibbs Layout: Ankur Guha Photography: Tim Draper Cartography: Katie Bennett Picture editors: Phoebe Lowndes Production: Jimmy Lao Proofreader: Anita Sach Cover design: Nicole Newman THE AUTHOR David Leffman first visited Hong Kong in 1985 and seems to have spent most of his life since contributing to books about the Chinese world He has a degree in photography and studied Mandarin Chinese at SOAS, London and Sichuan University, China He has also co-authored and edited guidebooks to Australia, China, Indonesia, Hong Kong, Iceland and Malaysia for Rough Guides, Dorling Kindersley and others 152 HELP US UPDATE SMALL PRINT We’ve gone to a lot of effort to ensure that the third edition of the Pocket Rough Guide Hong Kong and Macau is accurate and up-to-date However, things change – places get “discovered”, opening hours are notoriously fickle, restaurants and rooms raise prices or lower standards If you feel we’ve got it wrong or left something out, we’d like to know, and if you can remember the address, the price, the hours, the phone number, so much the better Please send your comments with the subject line “Pocket Rough Guide Hong Kong and Macau Update” to E mail@roughguides.com We’ll credit all contributions and send a copy of the next edition (or any other Rough Guide if you prefer) for the very best emails Find more travel information, connect with fellow travellers and plan your trip on W www roughguides.com PHOTO CREDITS All images © Rough Guides except the following: Front cover Alamy Images: Paul Springett 07 Back cover Alamy Images: Chris Putnam p.1 Corbis: Jean-Pierre Lescourret p.2 AWL Images: Travel Pix Collection p.4 Getty Images: Keren Su p.5 Getty Images: Esch Collection p.6 Alamy Images: Sean Pavone p.8 Alamy Images: myLAM (c) p.9 Alamy Images: Andrew Linscott (t); FLPA (c); Courtesy of Iain Masterson (b) p.11 Axiom: Ian Cumming; Alamy Images: Prisma Bildagentur p.15 Superstock: JTB; Getty Images: Peter Adams p.16 Getty Images: Samantha Sin p.17 Getty Images: Ed Jones (t); Corbis: Tyrone Siu/Reuters (cl) p.21 Alamy Images: John Warburton (cr); Alamy Images: Steve Vidler (cl) p.22 Alamy Images: Ian Trower/age footstock p.24 Alamy Images: Justin Yeung p.25 Alamy Images: Lyndon Giffard (cl) p.26 SuperStock: Steve Vidler p.36 Alamy Images: Simon Meaker p.42 Alamy Images: Lyndon Giffard Images p.45 Courtesy of Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong p.52 Alamy Images: World Pictures p.53 Alamy Images: Ian Trower p.84 age fotostock: ZoonarJess Yu p.85 Getty Images: Michael Siward p.103 Alamy Images: Robert Harrison p.121 Alamy Images: Emma Wood 153 Index Maps are marked in bold INDEX A Metro Park .125 Metropole 128 Mount Davis Youth Hostel 124 Nathan 127 Ngong Ping S.G Davis Youth Hostel 127 Novotel Citygate 127 Ole London 129 New Nam Pan 128 Park Lane 125 Pensão Wa Fat 128 Peninsula 64, 126 Pousada de São Tiago .116, 129 Regal Riverside 127 Renaissance Harbour View 125 Royal .128 Royal Plaza 127 Salisbury YMCA 126 Sands 129 Sealand 126 Silvermine Beach Hotel 128 Star Guesthouse 126 Sunrise Holiday Resort .128 Sze Lok Yuen Youth Hostel 127 Venetian 129 Warwick 128 Wynn .129 Aberdeen 58 accommodation (by area) Causeway Bay 125 Central 124 Cheung Chau 128 Coloane 129 Jordan/Yau Ma Tei 126 Lamma 128 Lantau .127 Macau .128 Mong Kok 127 Tsim Sha Tsui 126 Wan Chai 125 accommodation (by name) Alisan 125 B&B .128 Bali Holiday Resort 128 Bella Vista Miami Resort 128 Benito 126 Beverly 125 Booth Lodge 127 BP International House 126 Bradbury Jockey Club Youth Hostel 127 Caritas Bianchi Lodge .127 Central 129 Concerto Inn 128 Conrad 125 Dragon Hostel 127 Garden Hostel 126 Garden View (YWCA) 124 Germany Hostel .126 Grand Coloane Resort .129 Grand Hyatt .125 Hostel HK/Wang Fat 125 Hotel LKF .124 Intercontinental .126 Jetvan Traveller’s House 125 Kathmandu Guesthouse 128 King’s 125 King’s de Nathan 127 Ko Wah 129 Lan Kwai Fong Hotel .124 Lisboa .128 Luxe Manor 126 Man Va 129 Mandarin Oriental (Hong Kong) 34, 124 Mandarin Oriental (Macau) .128 Marco Polo hotels 126 Mei Ho House Youth Hostel 127 154 airport 132 Airport Express Line (AEL) 132 A-Ma Festival 115, 140 A-Ma Temple .10, 115 Amah Rock .88 Ap Lei Chau 7, 58 Ap Liu Street flea market 79 arrival 132 Avenida da Amizade 116 Avenue of Stars 67 B Bank of China 8, 35 Barra 114 bars and clubs (by area) Causeway Bay 57 Central 46 Tsim Sha Tsui 73 Wan Chai 56 bars and clubs (by name) All Night Long 73 Bahama Mama’s 73 Bit Point 46 Boujis 46 Café Gray Deluxe 56 Carnegie’s 56 China Club 35 Club 71 46 D26 46 Delaney’s 73 Devil's Advocate 57 Dickens Sport Bar 57 Dusk Till Dawn 57 Foreign Correspondents’ Club 36 Fringe Club 46 Havana Bar 47 Hong Kong Club 34 Insomnia 47 Joe Banana’s 57 Keg Sports Bar 47 Le Jardin 47 Magnum CLub 47 Ned Kelly’s Last Stand 73 Nova 47 Origin 47 TED's Lookout 57 Tequila Jack’s 73 Vibes 73 Wanch 57 beaches Big Wave Bay 61 Cheoc Van 119 Cheung Sha .100 Hác Sá .119 Ham Tin Wan 94 Kau Ling Chung 100 Kwun Yam Wan 104 Mui Wo 101 Pak Tso Wan 104 Pui O .100 Repulse Bay 59 Shek O 62 Shek Pai Wan 103 St Stephen’s 60 Stanley 60 Tai Long Wan (Lantau Island) 100 Tai Long Wan (Sai Kung Peninsula) .25, 94 Tai Wan 94 Tung Wan .104 Big Buddha 14, 98 Big Wave Bay 61, 62 Bird Market 78 bird’s nest soup 41 Bishop’s Palace 114 border crossings 113, 133 Bowen Road .49 Bride’s Pool 24, 93 buses .134 C D Des Voeux Road 36 Discovery Bay 101 Disneyland 96 Dragon Boat Races 17, 58, 141 Dragon’s Back 25, 61 drinking 7, see also bars and clubs Drunken Dragon Festival 108 E eating 7, 20, see also restaurants Edward Youde Aviary 11, 38 embassies 136 Exchange Square 31 F Fan Lau Fort 100 Fanling .93 Feira da Carmo square 118 feng shui 4, 35, 59, 135 ferries .132, 134 festivals 16, 140 Filipinos .34 Fisherman’s Wharf 117 Flagstaff House 38 Flower Market 78 Foreign Correspondents’ Club .36 Forever Blooming Bauhinia Sculpture .48 Fortaleza da Guia 111 Fortaleza de São Tiago da Barra 116 Fortaleza Monte 10, 108 Fringe Club 36, 47 G getting around 133 ginseng 41 glossary 151 Golden Lotus Flower 117 Goldfish Market 78 golf 94 Government House .37 Grand Lisboa 116 Granville Road 68 guesthouses see accommodation Guia Hill 111 Hong Kong Island: Wan Chai and Causeway Bay 50–51 Hong Kong Island Trail 61 Hong Kong Park 38 Hong Kong Racing Museum 53 Hong Kong Railway Museum .91 Hong Kong Science Museum 19, 68 Hong Kong Wetland Park 9, 86 Hong Kong–Macau Ferry Terminal .132 Hong Kung Temple 108 Hongkong and Shanghai Banking Corporation (HSBC) 34 Hopewell centre 49 horseracing .23, 52, 90 hotels and hostels see accommodation Hung Shing Temple 49 Hung Shing Ye 102 I Ice House Street 36 IFC Mall .31 IFC2 Tower 31 Igreja Carmo church 118 International Commerce Centre (ICC) 64 islands Cheung Chau 103 Hong Kong 31–63 Kau Sai Chau 94 Kiu Tsui Chau (Sharp Island) 94 Lamma 102 Lantau .96–101 H Hác Sá beach 119 Hakka people .89 Ham Tin Wan beach 94 Happy Valley Racecourse 52 Harbour City .64 Harlech Road 39 Hau Wong Miu 100 health 136 High Island Reservoir 94 history .142 Hollywood Road 8, 40 Hong Kong Club 34 Hong Kong Coliseum Hong Kong Cultural Centre 66 Hong Kong Heritage Museum .90 Hong Kong History Museum 18, 68 Hong Kong International Airport 132 Hong Kong Island 30–63 Hong Kong Island: Central and around 32–33 Hong Kong Island: the south side 6061 INDEX Calỗada da Barra 115 Cantonese 144–151 Casa Museu 118 casinos 23, 116, 117 Cat Street 40 Causeway Bay 7, 48–55 Cemitério Protestante 110 Central 30–47 Central and around 32–33 Central Plaza 11, 48 Centre, The .36 Che Kung Temple 88 Cheoc Lam Temple 112 Cheoc Van beach 119 Cheung Chau 104 Cheung Chau 104 Cheung Chau Bun Festival 17, 104, 140 Cheung Sha beach 100 Chi Lin Nunnery 81 China Club 35 China Ferry Terminal 64, 132 Chinese medicine, traditional 41 Chinese New Year 17, 140 Chinnery, George 110 Cinema Alegria 112 Cirque de Soleil 119 Clearwater Bay 93 clubs see bars and clubs Coloane 7, 119 Convention and Exhibition Centre 48 Cotai 119 Cotai Frontier Post 119 Court of Final Appeal 34 itineraries 8–11 J Jackson, Sir Thomas 34 Jade Market 26, 75 Jardim Lou Lim Ieoc 110 Jardim Luís de Camões .110 Jetfoil Ferry Terminal 132 Jordan 7, 74 Jordan to Diamond Hill .76–77 K Kadoorie Farm 92 Kam Tin 9, 85 Kat Hing Wai 85 Kau Ling Chung beach 100 Kau Sai Chau 94 155 INDEX Kiu Tsui Chau (Sharp Island) 94 Knutsford Terrace Kowloon 64–83 Kowloon: Jordan to Diamond Hill 76–77 Kowloon: Tsim Sha Tsui 65 Kowloon Park 11, 69 Kowloon Walled City Park 79 Kuan Ti 40 Kun Iam Temple 111 Kung Fu Corner 69 Kwan Ti Temple 100 Kwun Yam Wan beach 105 Ap Liu Street flea market 79 Bird Market 27, 78 Bowrington Road Market 55 Flower Market .27, 78 Goldfish Market 11, 27, 78 Jade Market 26, 75 Ladies’ Market 78 Li Yuen Street 36 Lin Kai Temple market 112 Mong Kok markets Red Market 112 Sham Shui Po 27, 78 Sheung Wan Market .8, 41 Stanley Market 60 Tai Po Hui Market 91 Tai Yuen Street 49 Temple Street Night Market 9, 27, 75 Three Lamps District 27, 112 Western Market 41 L Ladies’ Market 78 language 144–151 Lam Tsuen Wishing Trees 9, 92 Lamma 102 Lamma 103 Lan Kwai Fong 7, 23, 36 Lan Kwai Fong 37 Landmark, The 36 Lantau 96–101 Lantau .98–99 Lantau Peak .97 Lantau Trail 97, 101 Largo Lilau .10, 114 Largo Senado 7, 10, 106 Leal Senado 10, 106 Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb Museum .79 Lei Yue Mun 53, 80 Leung Choi Shun 79 Li Yuen Street .36 Light Rail 133 Lin Fong Temple 112 Lin Kai Temple 112 Lion Rock Country Park 88 Lippo Centre .38 Lisboa Hotel 116, 128 Lok Cha Tea House 38, 45 Lovers Rock .49 martial arts 11, 69 medicine, traditional Chinese 41 Mid-Autumn Festival 16, 141 Mid-Levels Escalator 40 Mo Tat Wan 103 Mong Kok 7, 9, 11, 78 Mount Austin Road .39 Mount Stenhouse .103 MTR 133 Mui Wo 101 Murray House .60 museums Casa Museu .118 Heritage Museum 90 History Museum 18, 68 K.C Lo Gallery 38 Lei Chung Uk Han Tomb Museum 79 Museu de Macau 108 Museu Vinho .117 Museu Lin Zexu 113 Museu Marítimo 19, 115 Museum of Art (Hong Kong) 19, 66 Museum of Art (Macau) 117 Museum of Coastal Defence 19, 53 Museum of Teaware 38 Racing Museum 53 Railway Museum 91 Science Museum 19, 68 Sheung Yiu Folk Museum 94 Space Museum 66 Tai O museum 100 Tea Museum 110 M Macanese food 21, 119 Macau 106–121 Macau, Central 108–109 Macau Cultural Centre 117 Macau International Airport 132 Man Cheong .40 Man Mo Temple 40, 91 Mandarin Oriental Hotel .34, 124 Mandarin’s House 114 markets Aberdeen fish market 58 156 N Nam Koo Terrace 49 Nan Lian Gardens .81 Nathan Road 68 New Territories 84–95 New Territories 86–87 Ngong Ping 360 cable car 96 nightlife 7, see also bars and clubs Noon Day Gun 50 O Ocean Centre 64 Ocean Park 25, 58 Ocean Terminal 64 Octopus Cards 134 Old Bank of China .35 Old Dairy Farm Building 36 Old Peak Road 39 Old Wan Chai Post Office 49 Olympic Trail 101 opening hours 138 P Pak Tai Temple 49, 104 Pak Tam Au 94 Pak Tam Chung 94 Pak Tso Wan beach 105 pandas .59 parks Guia Hill 111 Hong Kong Park 38 Hong Kong Wetland Park 86 Jardim Lou Lim Ieoc 110 Jardim Luís de Camões 110 Kowloon Park .11, 69 Kowloon Walled City Park 79 Lion Rock Country Park 88 Nan Lian Gardens 81 Ocean Park 25, 58 Parque de Seac Pai Van 119 Pat Sin Leng Country Park 93 Plover Cove Country Park 92 Shing Mun Country Park 84 Tai Po Kau Nature Reserve 92 Parque de Seac Pai Van 119 Pat Sin Leng Country Park 93 Peak, The 11, 15, 39 Peak Galleria 39 Peak Tower .39 Peak Tram 39 pedestrian walkways 36 Pei, I.M 35 Penha Chapel 114 Peninsula Hotel .64, 67, 126 pink dolphins 25, 100, 101 Plover Cove Country Park 92 Po Lin Monastery 98 Q Quartel dos Mouros 115 Queen’s Road 36 Queen’s Road East 8, 49 R Reclamation Street 74 Red Market 112 Repulse Bay .59 restaurants (by area) Central 43 Cheung Chau 105 Hong Kong Island 43, 55, 63 Jordan/Mong Kok 82 Kowloon 71, 82 Lamma 102, 105 Lei Yue Mun 82 Macau .120 New Territories 95 South side (Hong Kong Island) 63 Tsim Sha Tsui 71 Wan Chai/Causeway Bay 55 restaurants (by name) 360º Café .120 A Lorcha 120 A Petisqueira 120 Agave 55 Aqua 71 BEP 43 Boa Mesa .120 Boathouse 63 Bowrington Road Market 55 Café Deco 43 Café Nga Tim 120 Café Ou Mun 120 Chan Chi Mei 120 Chee Kei 71 Chuen Cheung Kui 82 Chuen Kee 95 Cinta-J 55 Cloudland 71 Clube Militar 120 Concerto Inn 105 Coyote 55 Crystal Jade 55 Dan Dan Soul Food 44 Delhi Club 71 Dot Cod 44 Drunken Jade Tower 55 Fat Siu Lau 120 Felix 72 Fernando 120 Flying Pan 44 Fook Lam Moon 55 Fung Shing 44 Galo 121 Gateway Cuisine 82 Green Willow Village 55 Happy Garden 63 Harmony Village Vegetarian 56 Hee Kee 56 Honeymoon Dessert 95 Hong Kee 105 Islam Food 82 Island Tang 44 Ivan the Kozak 44 Jumbo Floating Restaurant 63 Kakalok 72 Kam Shan Seafood 83 Kung Tak Lam 56 La Pampa 45 Lamma Seaview Man Fung 105 Light Vegetarian 83 Lin Heung Teahouse 45 Litoral 121 Lok Cha Tea House 45 Lord Stow’s Bakery 121 Luk Yu Tea House 45 Lung Wah 95 Macau Vegetarian Farm 121 Majesty Seafood 83 Man Wah 45 Metropol 56 O Porto Interior 121 O Santos 121 Padang 56 Paramount Banquet Hall 63 Pawn, the 56 Peak Lookout, The 45 Plaza Mayor 56 Rainbow Seafood .105 Riquexo 121 Sam Tor 46 Sei Yat 63 Sham Tsai Kee 83 Shanghai Po Po 72 Spoon 72 Spring Deer 72 Sun Kwong Nam 83 Sweet Dynasty 72 Tai Cheong Bakery 46 Temple Street Night Market 75 Tim Ho Wan 83 Tin Heung Lau 72 Tsim Chai Kee Noodle 46 Tsui Wah 46 Tung Kee Seafood 95 Verandah, the 63 Wing Wah 56 Yan Toh Heen 73 Yat Lok 95 Yung Kee 46 rock climbing .88 Rua da Felicidade 10, 114 Rua Cunha 118 Rua Padre Antonio .114 S INDEX Portas Cerco 113 Portuguese 147, 150 Porto Exterior 116 Porto Interior 114 Pottinger Street 36 Pui O beach 100 Sai Kung 94 Sai Wan Ting 94 Sam Tai Tze Temple 79 Santa Casa de Misericórdia 106 Santo Agostinho .114 São Domingos 107 São Francisco Barracks 117 Sóo Lourenỗo 114 Sóo Paulo 10, 15, 107 Sé 107 Sha Tin 89, 90 Sha Tin Pass 80 Sha Tin Racecourse 90 Sham Shui Po 7, 27, 78 Shanghai Street 74 Shanghai Tang 36 Shek O .62 Shek Pai Wan beach 103 Shek Pik Reservoir 100 Sheung Wan 7, 40 Sheung Wan Market .8 Sheung Yiu Folk Museum 94 Shing Mun Country Park .84 Ship Street 49 shopping 7, 22, 26, see also markets and shops shops (by area) Ap Lei Chau 7, 58 Central 42 Granville Road 68 Hollywood Road 7, 8, 40 Hong Kong Island 42, 54, 62 Mong Kok 82 Nathan Road 68, 82 Sham Shui Po .7, 27, 78, 82 South side (Hong Kong Island) 62 Tsim Sha Tsui .68, 70 Upper Lascar Row 40 Wan Chai/Causeway Bay 54 shops (by name) 298 Computer Zone 54 1881 Heritage 70 Altfield Gallery 62 Blanc de Chine 42 Bookazine 42 Chinese Arts and Crafts 54 Chow Tai Fook 70 Commercial Press 70 Dragon Culture 42 157 INDEX Elissa Cohen Jewellery 70 Eu Yang Sang 42 Flow 42 Fortress 70 Golden Computer Centre & Arcade 82 Honeychurch Antiques 42 Horizon Plaza 62 Johnson & Co 70 Joyce 70 Just Gold 54 Karin Weber Gallery 42 Ki Chan Tea Co 54 L&E Arts and Crafts 62 Lane Crawford 43, 54 Lee Gardens 54 Linva Tailor 43 Margaret Court Tailoress 43 Mong Kok Computer Centre 82 President Jewellery and Gems 71 Sam’s Tailors 71 Shanghai Tang 43 SOGO 54 Teresa Coleman 43 Times Square 8, 51, 54 True Arts and Curios 43 Vivienne Tam 54 Wattis Fine Arts 43 Wing On 43 Yue Hwa Chinese Products Emporium 82 Yue Po Tai Antiques 43 Shui Tau Tsuen 85 Shun Tak Centre 40 Sik Sik Yuen Temple 80 Sok Kwu Wan 103 Space Museum 67 St Francis Xavier Chapel 119 Stanley 60 Stanley Prison 60 Star Ferry 11, 15, 30, 48, 64, 134 Star Ferry Pier (Tsim Sha Tsui) 64 Star Ferry Pier (Wan Chai) 48 Statue Square 34 Stephen and Stitt .35 Stock Exchange 31 Stone Nullah Lane 49 surfing .94 Symphony of Lights 67 T Tai Au Mun 93 tai chi 8, 23, 135, 139 158 Tai Chiu Bun Festival 17, 104, 140 Tai Hang Fire Dragon 17 Tai Long village 94 Tai Long Wan (Lantau Island) 100 Tai Long Wan (Sai Kung Peninsula) 25, 94 Tai Mo Shan .86 Tai O 100 Tai Po 89, 91 Tai Po Kau Nature Reserve 92 Tai Tung Shan .97 Tai Wan beach 94 Tai Yuen Street 49 Taipa 7, 118 Taipa Ferry Terminal 132 Tam Kung Temple .119 taxis 134 tea, medicinal 41 Tea Museum .110 Teatro Dom Pedro V 114 Temples Che Kung Temple 88 Cheoc Lam Temple 112 Chi Lin Nunnery 81 Hau Wong Miu 100 Hong Kung Temple 108 Hung Shing Temple 49 Kun Iam Temple .111 Kwan Ti Temple 100 Lin Fong Temple .112 Lin Kai Temple 112 Man Mo Temple (Hollywood Road) 40 Man Mo Temple (Tai Po) 91 Pak Tai Temple (Cheung Chau) .104 Pak Tai Temple (Wan Chai) 49 Po Lin Monastery 98 Sam Tai Tze Temple 79 Sik Sik Yuen Temple 80 Tam Kung Temple .119 Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery 91 Tin Hau Temple (Clearwater Bay) 93 Tin Hau Temple (Jordan) 75 Tin Hau Temple (Stanley) 60 Tin Hau Temple (Tai Po) 91 Temple Street Night Market 75 Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery 91 Three Lamps District 27, 112 Tian Tan Big Buddha 14, 98 Times Square 8, 51, 54 Tin Hau Temple 60, 75, 91, 93 Tin Shui Wai .89 To Tei Wan Tsuen 61 Tourist Activity Centre (Macau) .117 tourist information 139 tours 135 trains .133 trams .134 Tsang Tai Uk .89 Tsim Sha Tsui 64–73 Tsim Sha Tsui 65 Tsim Sha Tsui Star Ferry Pier 64 Tung Chung 96 Tung Wan beach .105 U Upper Lascar Row .40 V Venetian, the .119, 129 Victoria Harbour 15, 31 Victoria Park 8, 50 Victoria Peak Garden 39 W Wan Chai 7, 48 Wan Chai and Causeway Bay .50–51 Wan Chai Star Ferry Pier .48 weather Western Market 41 Wishing Trees 9, 92 Wong Tai Sin 80 Y Yau Ma Tei 74 Yung Shue Wan 102 Z Zoological and Botanical Gardens 11, 37 ...Pocket Rough Guide HONG KONG AND MACAU written and researched by DAVID LEFFMAN Contents INTRODUCTION Hong Kong and Macau at a glance Itineraries BEST OF HONG KONG AND MACAU 12 Big sights... TO HONG KONG AND MACAU HONG KONG AND MACAU Facing each other across the Pearl River estuary, Hong Kong and Macau offer an exciting yet easy entry into the Chinese world Colonies of Britain and. .. Museums 18 Dining 20 PLACES Hong Kong Island: Central and around 30 Hong Kong Island: Wan Chai, Causeway Bay and Happy Valley 48 Hong Kong Island: the south side 58 Kowloon: