CHEMISTRY RESEARCH AND APPLICATIONS TEXTILES HISTORY, PROPERTIES AND PERFORMANCE AND APPLICATIONS No part of this digital document may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means The publisher has taken reasonable care in the preparation of this digital document, but makes no expressed or implied warranty of any kind and assumes no responsibility for any errors or omissions No liability is assumed for incidental or consequential damages in connection with or arising out of information contained herein This digital document is sold with the clear understanding that the publisher is not engaged in rendering legal, medical or any other professional services CHEMISTRY RESEARCH AND APPLICATIONS Additional books in this series can be found on Nova’s website under the Series tab Additional e-books in this series can be found on Nova’s website under the e-book tab CHEMISTRY RESEARCH AND APPLICATIONS TEXTILES HISTORY, PROPERTIES AND PERFORMANCE AND APPLICATIONS MD IBRAHIM H MONDAL EDITOR New York Copyright © 2014 by Nova Science Publishers, Inc All rights reserved No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means: electronic, electrostatic, magnetic, tape, mechanical photocopying, recording or otherwise without the written permission of the Publisher For permission to use material from this book please contact us: Telephone 631-231-7269; Fax 631-231-8175 Web Site: http://www.novapublishers.com NOTICE TO THE READER The Publisher has taken reasonable care in the preparation of this book, but makes no expressed or implied warranty of any kind and assumes no responsibility for any errors or omissions No liability is assumed for incidental or consequential damages in connection with or arising out of information contained in this book The Publisher shall not be liable for any special, consequential, or exemplary damages resulting, in whole or in part, from the readers’ use of, or reliance upon, this material Any parts of this book based on government reports are so indicated and copyright is claimed for those parts to the extent applicable to compilations of such works Independent verification should be sought for any data, advice or recommendations contained in this book In addition, no responsibility is assumed by the publisher for any injury and/or damage to persons or property arising from any methods, products, instructions, ideas or otherwise contained in this publication This publication is designed to provide accurate and authoritative information with regard to the subject matter covered herein It is sold with the clear understanding that the Publisher is not engaged in rendering legal or any other professional services If legal or any other expert assistance is required, the services of a competent person should be sought FROM A DECLARATION OF PARTICIPANTS JOINTLY ADOPTED BY A COMMITTEE OF THE AMERICAN BAR ASSOCIATION AND A COMMITTEE OF PUBLISHERS Additional color graphics may be available in the e-book version of this book Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data ISBN:  (eBook) Published by Nova Science Publishers, Inc † New York CONTENTS Preface vii Contributor Contact Details Andrej Javoršek, Cesar Pulgarin, Eva Bou-Belda, Gordana S Ušćumlić, Ignacio Montava, Jaime Gisbert and Sami Rtimi ix Chapter An Exploration of Vintage Fashion Retailing Julie McColl, Catherine Canning, Louise McBride, Karina Nobbs and Linda Shearer Chapter Developing Sustainable Design on Denim Ready-Made Apparels by Stone and Enzymatic Washing Md Ibrahim H Mondal and Md Mashiur Rahman Khan Chapter Digital Textile Printing Using Color Management Dejana Javoršek, Primož Weingerl and Marica Starešinič Chapter Inkjet Printed Photo-Responsive Textiles for Conventional and High-Tech Applications Shah M Reduwan Billah Chapter Synthesis and Grafting of Cellulose Derivatives from Cellulosic Wastes of the Textile Industry Md Ibrahim H Mondal and A B M Fakrul Alam Chapter History, Synthesis and Properties of Azo Pyridone Dyes Dušan Ž Mijin, Gordana S Ušćumlić and Nataša V Valentić Chapter Smart Textiles and the Effective Uses of Photochromic, Thermochromic, Ionochromic and Electrochromic Molecular Switches Shah M Reduwan Billah 19 53 81 123 157 187 Chapter Smart Textiles Ali Akbar Merati 239 Chapter Overview of Textiles Excavated in Greece Christina Margariti, Stavroula Moraitou and Maria Retsa 259 vi Chapter 10 Contents Innovative Ag-Textiles Prepared by Colloidal, Conventional Sputtering and HIPIMS Including Fast Bacterial Inactivation: Critical Issues Sami Rtimi, Cesar Pulgarin, Rosendo Sanjines and John Kiwi 277 Chapter 11 Fungal Deterioration of Aged Textiles Katja Kavkler, Nina Gunde-Cimerman, Polona Zalar and Andrej Demšar 315 Chapter 12 Durability of Functionalized Textiles by Microcapsules Lucia Capablanca, Pablo Monllor, Pablo Díaz and Maria Ángeles Bonet 343 Chapter 13 New Approaches and Applications on Cellulosic Fabric Crosslinking Eva Bou-Belda, Maria Ángeles Bonet, Pablo Monllor, Pablo Díaz, Ignacio Montava and Jaime Gisbert Chapter 14 Wrinkle Resistant and Comfort Finishing of Cotton Textiles Vahid Ameri Dehabadi and Hans-Jürgen Buschmann Chapter 15 Evaluation of Physical and Thermal Comfort Properties of Copper/Alginate Treated Wool Fabrics by Using Ultrasonic Energy Muhammet Uzun 355 367 383 Chapter 16 Hemp Fibers: Old Fibers - New Applications Mirjana Kostic, Marija Vukcevic, Biljana Pejic and Ana Kalijadis 399 Chapter 17 Textiles Using Electronic Applications Marica Starešinič, Andrej Javoršek and Dejana Javoršek 447 Chapter 18 Textiles for Cardiac Care Narayanan Gokarneshan, Palaniappan P Gopalakrishnan, Venkatachalam Rajendran and Dharmarajan Anita Rachel 465 Chapter 19 Effect of Clothing Materials on Thermoregulatory Responses of the Human Body P Kandha Vadivu 483 Designing of Jute–Based Thermal Insulating Materials and Their Properties Sanjoy Debnath 499 Effects of Ring Flange Type, Traveler Weight and Coating on Cotton Yarn Properties Muhammet Uzun and Ismail Usta 519 Chapter 20 Chapter 21 Chapter 22 Index Optical Fiber Examination by Confocal Laser Scanning Microscopy Andrea Ehrmann 531 547 PREFACE This book reveals the expanding opportunity of textiles in a wide range of industrial applications No longer limited to apparels and home furnishings, textiles are being used in many sciences and technologies, such as clothing and fashionable materials, smart textiles, technical textiles, medical textiles, agro-textiles, geo-textiles, electronics, photonics, intelligent sensors, etc This book is intended for all those who are interested and engaged in the latest developments in the field of textiles, especially chemists, engineers, technologists, application technicians and colorists of the textile industry, technical colleges and universities Textiles are essential and one of the most important classes of materials used by all people since ancient time Despite textiles having been around and in use for so long, advances and improvements continue to be made This book contains 22 invited contributions written by leading experts in the field of textiles Each contribution presents an updated science and technological advances that have happened during this period and are fully discussed The first chapter discusses the present and future prospects of vintage fashion clothing, i.e., an old fashion clothing and its retailing Chapter searches for the dynamic best method for producing specific washing effects and designs on denim ready-made apparels The chapters and present a discussion on color management application in the field of digital printing onto textile substrates, and inject printed photo-responsive textiles used in fashion and design, self indicating security alert systems, anti-counterfeit and brand protection In chapter and 6, an attempt has been made to cover the most up-to-date information regarding synthesis, and application of cellulose derivatives and azo dyes on textiles Smart textiles incorporated with different functionalities have many uses in a variety of fields, some of them are widely used in the fields of biomedical or healthcare applications The smart textiles and its multi-disciplinary applications have been well discussed in chapters and In chapters 9, 10 and 11, preservation of textile objects in different environments like home, stores, museums etc have been discussed These chapters also discussed how to protect textiles from bacterial and fungal deterioration An elaborative discussion has been made in Chapters 12, 13, 14, 15 and 16 on the new applications of textile materials through modification by physico-chemical methods The modification has been done to obtain durable, comfort, sustainable and environment friendly finished products using various organic and inorganic chemicals for much better performance Use of micro-capsulation techniques to modify textiles offers extra-properties, e.g., durable fragrances, skin softeners to textiles Electronic applications of textiles have been discussed in chapter 17 Textiles, from viii Md Ibrahim H Mondal fibers to fabric, with integrated special electronics are more and more used as special materials in newly developed smart clothing The chapter 18 specifically focuses on the technological advances with regard to development of textiles for cardiology purpose, i.e., cardiac care The thermoregulatory process of human body, the thermal comfort properties of fabrics and the effect of clothing material on the thermoregulatory process of human body in different weather conditions has been discussed in Chapter 19 In chapter 20, effort has been made on diversification of jute specifically, development of jute-based materials for thermal insulating applications The main aim of chapter 21 is to utilize the ring flanges and travellers of ring spinning, which is the most effective staple yarn production process, for the yarn quality in terms of hairiness, twist, breaking strength and irregularity The last chapter 22 gives an introduction into the techniques of confocal laser spinning microscopy, and depicts optical differences between several textile fibers, enabling a non-destructive examination of natural and chemical fibers I am very much grateful to all the specialized contributing authors of this book My special appreciation is also extended to Ms Carra Feagaiga of Nova Science Publishers, Inc., for her good collaboration, support and numerous discussions throughout the project for this book I wish thank to my colleagues Professor C M Mustafa, Professor F I Farouqui, and Professor M A Sayeed for their constant support and encouragement I also thank my graduate students, Dr Md Mashiur Rahman Khan, Md Raihan Sharif, Md Saifur Rahman and Md Tariqul Islam for their help during editing this book Lastly I am thankful to Khadijatul Qubra and Ishrat Rafia for their constant encouragement, understanding and support Any constructive suggestions and comments are therefore welcome for future revisions and corrections Department of Applied Chemistry & Chemical Engineering, Rajshahi University, Bangladesh November 2013 Professor Md Ibrahim H Mondal Index messages, 252 metabolic processes, 483 metabolism, 484 metabolites, 317 metal corrosion products, 262, 263, 264, 275 metal fibers, 248, 542 metal ion(s), 199, 208, 218, 221, 230, 231, 262, 263, 389, 399, 412, 418, 419, 420, 422, 423, 424, 425, 426, 427, 428, 429, 436, 437, 438, 440, 441, 443, 445, 446 metal nanoparticles, 279, 285 metal oxides, 220, 221, 248, 249 metal salts, 94, 248, 249 metallic brilliance, 542 metallic glittering, 542 metals, 189, 193, 211, 219, 221, 223, 248, 249, 250, 262, 263, 264, 267, 273, 289, 400, 418, 420, 422, 430, 436, 437, 440, 443 meter, 31, 56, 489, 511, 522, 523 methacrylates, 122 methanol, 123, 127, 145, 146 methicillin-resistant, 384, 396 methodology, 76, 184 methyl methacrylate, 123, 124, 127 micro encapsulation, 189 microbial attack, 283, 317 microbial communities, 337 microbial community, 338 microbial degradation, 320, 339 microcapsules, 195, 216, 241, 242, 243, 255, 343, 344, 345, 346, 347, 348, 349, 350, 351, 352, 353, 362, 365, 455, 462 microcapsules stability, 343, 348, 349 microclimate, 243, 244 micro-disposal technique, 83, 85, 87, 90 micro-electromechanical machines, 240 micro-electronic mechanical systems, 189 microelectronics, 240 microemulsion, 77 micro-engineering industries, 54 microfibril, 401 micro-lens, 533 microorganism(s), 50, 317, 339, 377, 384 micro-organisms inhibitors, 263 microporous structure, 436 microscope, 19, 32, 33, 44, 46, 57, 58, 266, 323, 358, 531, 532, 533, 542, 543 microscopic images, 533, 534, 535, 537, 538 microscopy, viii, 44, 45, 46, 47, 284, 285, 299, 303, 304, 305, 306, 308, 310, 316, 321, 322, 326, 327, 332, 339, 341, 343, 345, 346, 531, 532, 537, 544, 545 Microsoft, 7, 462 565 Microsoft Word, microspheres, 350 microstructure, 277, 286, 303, 305, 306, 307, 351, 401 microtome, 282 microwave irradiation, 167, 180 middle class, middle lamella, 408, 409, 413, 417, 419 migration, 120, 158, 171, 263, 477, 501 migration resistance, 171 military, 194, 240, 244 military applications of smart textiles, 240 mineralised fibres, 263 mineralization, 177, 274 mini dresses, 11 Ministry of Education, 153, 180 mixing, 248 MMA, 123, 124, 127, 128, 131, 132, 133, 134, 139, 141, 142, 143, 149, 150, 151, 152 mobile phone, 190, 241, 450, 460 mobile phone technology, 241 mobile telecommunication, 239 modelling, 121, 274 models, 10, 78, 80, 101, 112, 113, 311, 420, 421, 450, 473, 478, 494 modifications, 216, 254, 499, 500 modified hemp fibers, 399, 405, 407, 409, 410, 411, 412, 413, 414, 415, 416, 417, 418, 419, 420, 421, 440 modules, 190, 251 modulus, 330, 334 mohair, 536 moisture, 123, 132, 139, 142, 147, 150, 154, 191, 242, 246, 250, 265, 283, 367, 368, 397, 410, 414, 415, 483, 484, 485, 488, 490, 493, 494, 495, 540 moisture content, 123, 132, 139, 142, 147, 150, 410, 415 moisture sorption, 154, 415 molar extinction coefficient, 157, 162 moldings, 136 mole, 172, 280 molecular chains, 262, 368 molecular motors, 201, 206, 207, 229 molecular orientation, 214, 418 molecular sensors, 230 molecular stoichiometry, 430 molecular structure, 107, 134, 143, 153, 193, 203, 211, 248, 360, 364 molecular weight, 98, 123, 124, 126, 127, 130, 131, 139, 141, 147, 149, 153, 245, 372, 379, 402, 405, 541 molecules, 34, 54, 107, 108, 109, 112, 113, 115, 116, 158, 164, 176, 193, 199, 203, 206, 210, 211, 212, 566 Index 213, 215, 220, 290, 333, 360, 367, 372, 375, 377, 402, 403, 404, 410, 413, 414, 435, 541 momentum, 82 monoazo, 158, 159, 163, 164, 165, 175, 176, 181, 184 monoazo pyridone dyes, 163, 164, 175, 176 monoclinic crystalline lattice, 404 monolayer, 286 monomer molecules, 541 monomers, 102, 154, 155, 248, 384, 541 monosaccharide, 401, 432 morphological changes, 326, 331, 336 morphology, 129, 268, 316, 326, 358, 400, 402, 406, 408, 409, 432, 436, 437, 440 motivation, 13, 25 mountain climbers, 240 mountain sheep wool, 537 mucous membrane(s), 370 multi-colour printing, 101 multidimensional, 409 multi-functional switches, 203, 207 multifunctional textiles, 240 multimillion pound industry, multiples, 484 multiplication, 467 multi-wavelength laser systems, 533 murals, 101 muscles, 484 museum collections, 337 museums, vii, 259, 260, 315, 316, 317, 320, 321, 322, 324, 335, 337 music, 8, 12 mycelium, 319, 322 mycology, 316 N Na+, 221, 297, 300, 314 Na–cellulose I lattice, 404 NaCl, 127, 131, 237, 295 nano-coatings, 543 nanoimprint, 233 nanomaterials, 240 nanometer, 357, 375 nanoparticle(s), 235, 249, 278, 279, 285, 286, 289, 303, 305, 309, 310, 311, 312, 313, 344, 356, 362, 375, 376 nanotechnologies, 239 nanotechnology, 188, 240, 279, 312, 375 naphthalimide, 159, 161 naphthopyrans, 105, 122, 194, 197, 201 native cellulose, 155, 402, 430, 442 natural blood-vessel deformation, 472 natural colour, 115, 500 natural crystalline structure, 404 natural fibers, 158, 400, 404, 531, 544 natural textiles fibers, 278 needling density, 509, 510, 512, 513, 515 negative casts, 263, 264 negativity, 307 neighbourhood feel, 12 nematic liquid crystals, 210 Netherlands, 542 nettles, 538 neurobiology, 233 neutral, 23, 27, 32, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 43, 48, 99, 178, 179, 234, 313, 485 neutral cellulose, 34, 36 new spinning technologies, 520 Newtonian fluids, 94 next generation, 118 NH2, 167 nickel, 220, 248, 263, 521 NIR, 296, 341 nitrates, 156 nitration, 145, 146, 148, 149, 152 nitrides, 278, 307 nitrodiphenylamine, 159 nitrogen, 105, 147, 148, 202, 214, 217, 306, 314, 361, 365, 370, 375, 432 nitrogen content, 147, 148 N-methylol compounds, 369, 370 NMR, 123, 128, 134, 139, 143, 147, 151, 152, 155, 177, 185, 340, 341 no dimension, 509 nominal magnification, 534, 535, 538 noncellulosic components, 400, 403, 405 nonconductive threads, 253, 254 non-destructive examination, viii, 531 non-heat resistant surfaces, 279 non-invasive examination, 532 non-ionic compounds, 158 non-linear least-squares regression, 426 non-linear optics, 296 non-porous media, 92 non-radiative transition, 107 non-wearable textile, 500 North America, 259, 339 nostalgia, 9, 13 nouveau vintage, novel technique, 384 nozzle density, 88 nozzle spray technique, 242 nuclear magnetic resonance, 156 nucleus, 159 numerical analysis, 467 567 Index numerical aperture, 532, 533 nutrient, 283, 295 nutrition, 317 nylon, 81, 112, 113, 115, 117, 118, 121, 157, 158, 162, 163, 164, 174, 204, 229, 246, 468 O objective rear aperture, 533 obstacles, 455 obstruction, 428 occlusion, 480 odor intensity, 349 odor measurements, 344 OFS, 256 OH, 125, 130, 141, 143, 148, 149, 157, 167, 168, 177, 285, 294, 301, 323, 329, 362, 402, 404, 406 OH-groups, 404 oil, 102, 338, 351, 352, 353, 400, 414, 415, 417, 441, 506 old clothes, older customers, oligomers, 102, 231, 361, 541 opacity, 476 open-end rotor, 520 openness, 490, 492 operations, 196 opportunities, 2, 10 optic sensors, 227 optical brightener, 53, 55, 63, 65 optical brightening agents, 55 optical density, 113 optical differences, viii, 531 optical examinations, 542 optical fiber, 239, 240, 247, 253, 257, 462 optical fibers, 239, 247, 253 optical light microscopy, 545 optical microscopes, 531, 532 optical microscopy, 321, 532 optical properties, 220, 247, 314 optical wide-field microscopy, 532 optimal performance, 48 optimization, 177, 297, 399, 429, 438, 440 ores, 500 organ(s), 77, 211, 241 organic chemicals, 400 organic chemicals resources, 400 organic compounds, 100, 317 organic fibres, 262, 263 organic matter, 263 organic polymers, 113, 317, 449 organic solvents, 167 organism, 23, 263 original garment, originality, 2, orthotropical traction stiffness, 474 Ostwald viscometer, 126 outdoor clothing, 246, 251 out-of-focus signals, 532 ownership, ox, 430 oxidation, 105, 195, 196, 208, 220, 221, 248, 256, 279, 283, 285, 290, 292, 294, 297, 303, 317, 329, 333, 351, 353, 405, 406, 408, 409, 419, 434, 442 oxidative agents, 405 oxidative reaction, 341 oxidative stress, 341 oxidizing agents, 405 oxygen, 214, 261, 262, 264, 266, 273, 277, 279, 280, 290, 306, 310, 312, 314, 317, 400, 433, 434, 436, 440, 445 P padding, 343, 345 pagers, 250 pain, 449 paints, 157, 159, 211 palladium, 346 PAN, 442, 542 paper, 53, 55, 56, 58, 65, 66, 67, 69, 71, 74, 76, 80, 82, 83, 85, 101, 119, 124, 128, 154, 157, 159, 166, 256, 260, 317, 318, 337, 340, 341, 355, 448, 461, 495 paper sludge, 124, 154 parallel, 44, 301, 401, 509, 514 parentage, participants, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 passive smart textiles, 240 passive thermal insulation effect, 242 pathogenic bacteria, 278, 289 pathogenic biofilms, 278 pathogens, 310, 311, 313 pathological effects, 467 pathology, 467 patients wear clothing, 449 PCA, 357, 363 PCBs, 77 PCM, 239, 241, 242, 243, 244, 255, 449 PCT, 119 peace, 450, 460 peat, 418 pectin, 399, 401, 403, 405, 418, 441, 538, 539, 543 pectin-surrounded fiber bundles, 539 pedal, pendant side groups, 401 568 Index pentose sugars, 401 peptide, 332 percolation, 249 permeability, 36, 190, 297, 361, 383, 384, 387, 395, 396, 397, 484, 490, 491, 507, 509, 512, 515, 517 permit, 123, 409, 414, 449 peroxide, 124, 125, 136, 314, 345, 406 personal communication, 260 personal contact, personality, 6, 12, 13, 14 perspiration, 168, 176, 218, 251, 368, 483, 484, 485, 488, 496 perspiration resistance, 218 PES, 56, 312, 397, 541, 542, 543 pesticide(s), 352, 400, 430, 438, 439, 440, 441, 444, 445, 446 pesticide analysis, 400, 438, 440 PET, 246, 466, 474, 505 pH, 19, 27, 90, 92, 93, 94, 97, 99, 103, 158, 164, 178, 185, 192, 193, 194, 203, 210, 215, 216, 218, 219, 230, 235, 236, 237, 238, 244, 300, 301, 313, 360, 372, 380, 405, 411, 418, 455, 462 pharmaceutical(s), 54, 124, 350, 351, 362, 377, 455 phase change materials, 189, 239, 240, 241, 242, 243, 244, 344, 352, 455, 462 phase transitions, 195, 211 phase-transfer catalysis, 231 phenol, 217, 218, 402 phenolic compounds, 216, 444 phosphate, 372 phosphorescence, 193 phosphorus, 145, 361, 365, 372, 380 photocatalysis, 305, 311, 314 photocatalysts, 312, 314 photocatalytic efficiency, 288 photochromic azulene, 203, 204, 205 photochromic colorants, 109 photochromic disperse dye, 204 photochromic dyes, 81, 99, 103, 104, 105, 108, 111, 113, 115, 116, 117, 118, 121, 122, 194, 195, 228, 229 photochromic fluorescent fabrics, 203 Photochromic napthopyrans, 106 photochromic reaction, 105, 106, 107, 195, 208 photochromic smart textiles, 209 photochromic spirooxazine, 109, 111, 114, 116, 196 photochromic textiles, 112, 196, 202, 219 photodegradation, 176, 177, 184 photo-detector, 532 photoelectron spectroscopy, 291 photo-excited organic molecules, 107 photofading kinetics, 176 photographs, 32, 332, 408, 433, 534, 537 photo-induced charge transfer, 297 photoisomerization reactions, 107 photoluminescence, 189 photomultiplier, 533 photonic fibers, 240 photonics, vii, 226, 227, 240, 249 photons, 109, 194 photo-responsive, vii, 81, 82, 88, 104, 108, 109, 110, 111, 113, 116, 117, 118, 195, 197, 199, 200, 204, 205, 206, 209, 229 photo-responsive fluorescence, 204, 205 photo-responsive inkjet printed textiles, 82 photostability, 107, 176, 184, 196 photoswitching, 108, 202 photovoltaic cells, 447, 448, 449, 452, 453, 454, 460 photovoltaic fibers, 449, 452 photovoltaic-piezoelectric device, 452, 461 physical activity, 484 physical and mechanical properties, 29, 30 physical characteristics, 71, 123, 190, 492 physical environment, 215 physical exercise, 484 physical features, 384 physical properties, 132, 142, 150, 193, 194, 200, 242, 249, 364, 383, 389, 407, 440, 477, 502, 508, 517, 527, 541 physical structure, 368, 492 physical treatments, 544 physicochemical properties, 92, 116 physics, 239, 240, 497 Physiological, 386, 483, 496, 497 physiological comfort, 397, 484, 490, 491 physiological measurement sensors, 251 physiological pressure curves, 472 physiological properties, 383, 384, 401 Pie chart, 261, 262, 265, 266, 269 piezo crystals, 449 piezochromic, 246 piezoelectric drop-on demand ceramic print heads, 95 piezoelectric element, 89 piezoelectric inkjet print head, 83, 88 piezoelectric materials, 240 piezoelectric resistance, 189 pigmentation, 317 pigmented binder-less inkjet inks, 84 pigments, 82, 91, 102, 103, 163, 167, 182, 193, 195, 210, 216 pinhole size, 533 pitch, 90, 210, 534, 536 plain fabric, 343, 345, 349 plain weave, 56, 286, 385, 475 plain woven woollen fabric’s resistance, 389 Index plants, 10, 218, 264, 418, 538, 539 plaque, 476 plasma chamber, 290 plasma deposition, 286 plasma particle deposition, 286 plastic shielded wires, 253 plastics, 63, 101, 157, 159, 167, 171, 313 platelets, 467 platform, playing, 84, 248 plethora of guides, point defects, 289 Poiseuille flow, 467 polar, 178, 213, 277, 279, 307 polar groups, 277, 279 polar solvents, 178, 213 polarity, 105, 112, 113, 158, 177, 306, 402, 414 police, 240 pollutants, 100, 430 pollution, 123, 124, 153 pollution problems, 153 poly(ethylene terephthalate), 164 polyacetylene, 248 polyacrylonitrile, 164, 165, 542 polyacrylonitrile fast yellow shades, 165 polyacrylonitrile fiber, 164 polyamide(s), 64, 121, 157, 159, 165, 170, 172, 176, 182, 229, 278, 541 polyamide fiber, 165, 170, 182 polyaniline, 220, 223, 234, 235, 248, 250 polycarbonate, 101, 247 polycarboxylic acid, 355, 356, 357, 361, 362, 363, 364, 365, 371, 372, 373, 375, 379, 380, 381 polyconcensation fibers, 541 polycondensation, 541 polyester fibre, 502, 506, 516 polyester vascular prosthesis, 465, 479 polyesters, 157, 159, 179 polyethylene, 98, 246, 278, 286, 289, 541 polyethylene-terephthalate, 286 polyglucuronic acids, 405 polyhydric alcohol, 98, 405 polymer chain(s), 33, 245, 248, 541 polymer composites, 226, 248, 256 polymer fibers, 539, 540 polymer films, 233, 278, 289 polymer matrix, 112, 113, 194 polymer media, 112 polymer melts, 241 polymer photovoltaic solar cells, 453, 454 polymer solutions, 241 polymer structure, 389 polymer-chain scission, 317 569 polymerization, 127, 139, 147, 154, 364, 375, 379, 401, 432, 462, 541 polymethylmethacrylate, 247 polymorphic transformation, 434 polymorphism, 155 polyolefin fibers, 541 polyolefins, 157, 159 polypeptide, 333 polypeptide chains, 333 polypropylene, 98, 101, 278, 481, 501, 504, 509, 510, 511, 512, 513, 515, 516, 517, 518, 541 polypropylene fibre, 504, 509, 513 polypyrrole, 220, 223, 233, 248, 250, 256 polysaccharide(s), 23, 24, 136, 155, 377, 396, 401, 402, 418, 442 polystyrene, 220, 246, 248 polythene, 272, 515 polythiophene, 220, 223, 234, 248 polyurethane, 77, 242, 245, 250, 255, 278 polyurethane foam, 242 polyurethane foam matrix, 242 polyurethanes, 344, 541 polyvinyl chloride, 541 population, 7, 400 porosity, 81, 115, 118, 190, 263, 307, 415, 437, 473, 474, 475 porous fiber matrices, 399, 422, 429, 440 porous media, 92 porous membrane, 387 positioning statement, positive correlation, 511 potassium, 98, 124, 400, 405, 406, 434, 440, 445 potassium bromide, 124, 405 potassium permanganate, 406 poverty, precipitation, 92, 125, 263, 418 pregnancy, 188 preparation, 11, 53, 55, 64, 66, 88, 125, 126, 138, 146, 148, 154, 155, 163, 164, 171, 181, 182, 183, 199, 219, 248, 278, 279, 283, 305, 313, 430, 438, 444, 445, 501, 511, 531 preservation, vii, 259, 261, 262, 263, 264, 265, 266, 267, 268, 270, 271, 272, 273, 274, 275, 276, 315, 317 prestige, prevention, 240, 336 preventive conservation, 273 primary fibrils, 403 primary structural network, 403 primary wall, 24, 35, 402 principles, 4, 50, 71, 76, 83, 415 570 Index print head, 71, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 87, 88, 89, 90, 91, 92, 93, 94, 95, 96, 97, 99, 100, 103, 104, 108, 118, 120, 121 print head nozzle, 94, 95, 96 print head technologies, 88, 93, 97 print media, 92 print mottle, 71, 80 print simulation, 53, 54, 55, 65, 67, 76 printed circuit boards, 54, 253, 254, 448, 450, 455 printed dress, 452 printed-textile, 82 printer color profiles, 53, 65 print-head clogging, 100 printing colors, 53, 55 printing electronic materials, 54 printing industry, 81, 84, 120 printing inks, 157, 159, 163, 167, 179, 195, 232, 250 printing technology, 54, 81, 82, 86, 88, 90, 95, 103, 104, 118, 120 procurement, 11 producers, 22 product design, 49, 210 product performance, production technology, 400 professionals, 3, 260, 269, 270, 272, 273, 274 profilometer, 286 prognosis, 16 programming, 448, 450, 457, 461 project, viii, 49, 90, 153, 180, 270, 271, 274, 338, 396 propagation, 89 propane, 406 proposition, proprietors, 12, 13, 14 prostheses, 466, 467, 468, 471, 474, 480 prosthesis, 465, 466, 467, 468, 469, 470, 471, 472, 474, 475, 476, 478, 479, 480 prosthesis flow properties, 467 prosthesis to kinking, 466 prosthesis wall displacements, 472 protection, vii, 81, 107, 117, 118, 194, 209, 210, 240, 320, 337, 395, 400, 403, 440, 447, 448, 449, 490 protective clothing, 243, 246, 250, 397, 447 protective coating, 133 proteinaceous fibres, 266, 267, 268, 273, 317, 318, 323, 336 proteinaceous material, 264, 316, 322, 325 proteins, 24, 145, 268, 321, 332, 341, 536 proton-accepting solvents, 178 proton-donating solvents, 179 protons, 279 prototype(s), 256, 452, 455, 469, 474, 475, 480 pseudomorph, 263 pseudo-vintage, 10 psychological variables, 484 PTFE, 471 PTT, 164, 165 public safety, 250 pulp, 125, 154, 538, 540 pulsatile flow conditions, 472, 478 pulse plasma power magnetron sputtering, 277 pulsed direct magnetron sputtering, 277 pumice stone, 19, 20, 21, 24, 25, 27, 41, 42, 43, 44, 47, 48 pumice stone-enzyme, 19, 41, 42, 47 purification, 136, 145, 400, 401, 430, 440 purity, 92, 153 PVC, 100 pyridinium group, 165 pyrolysis, 360, 430, 432, 444, 445 pyrolysis of celluloses, 430 Q quality control, 53 quantification, 545 quantum size nanoparticles, 309 quaternary ammonium, 165, 182 quaternary ammonium salt, 165, 182 Queensland, 341 questionnaire, 259, 260 quinoline derivatives, 159 quinones, 434 R radial distance, 426 radiation, 64, 65, 119, 194, 203, 205, 229, 256, 280, 375, 403, 448, 460, 483, 484, 485, 486, 487, 488, 489, 491, 492, 493, 494 radicals, 233, 279, 285, 290, 301, 357, 375 radio, 189, 280, 476 radiography, 493 radius, 415, 416, 423, 424, 427 Raman spectra, 185, 322, 323, 327, 328, 329 Raman spectroscopy, 185, 316, 321, 322, 326, 329, 332, 339, 340, 341, 357 ramie, 51, 442, 509, 538 rate of change, 425, 427 raw materials, 155, 321, 400 rayon, 51, 157, 159, 538 reactant, 356 reactants, 377, 380 reaction mechanism, 105, 106, 107, 111 reaction time, 107, 167, 294 571 Index reactions, 27, 92, 105, 107, 109, 170, 183, 200, 230, 279, 301, 357, 358, 375, 377, 405, 419, 430 reactive azo dyes, 170, 182, 183 reactive group(s), 375, 377 reactive oxygen, 278, 312 reactive polymers, 344 reactivity, 116, 132, 142, 150, 279, 289, 360, 364, 404, 405, 407, 436 reagents, 356, 362, 378 realism, 468 reality, 188, 226, 256, 311, 312 receptors, 117, 209, 490 recognition, 2, 192, 231 recombination, 301, 306, 309 recovery, 139, 244, 245, 255, 270, 283, 351, 356, 360, 367, 372, 375, 377, 381, 386, 393, 473, 477, 504 recycling, 4, 9, 10, 13, 124, 293, 297, 399, 401, 430 recycling plants, 10 red cell destruction, 467 red shift, 303 reflectance spectra, 296, 303, 304 refractive index, 105, 194, 195 refractive indices, 194 regenerated cellulose, 540 regeneration, 166 regression, 420, 426, 487 regression analysis, 420 regression equation, 487 rehabilitation, 188, 240, 252 reinforcement, 441, 500 relative humidity, 74, 315, 317, 320, 326, 410, 411 relaxation, 111, 112, 472 relaxation model, 112 relaxation process, 111 reliability, 5, 6, 54, 93, 98, 221, 250 remote sensing, 187, 225 renaissance, 400 repair, 473 reparation, 444 repeating unit, 401 repellent, 363, 365 repression, 50 reproduction, 55, 63, 71, 84 repulsion, 206 reputation, requirements, 5, 54, 61, 88, 90, 91, 92, 93, 97, 100, 104, 109, 118, 191, 196, 227, 228, 239, 243, 251, 252, 253, 292, 473, 475 researchers, 23, 24, 55, 124, 191, 260, 272, 324, 363, 372, 384, 455, 467 residuals, 421, 426 residues, 34, 43, 154, 182, 307, 333, 361, 402, 444 resilience, 477, 513 resins, 321, 344, 367, 369, 378 resolution, 87, 297, 531, 532, 533, 534, 535, 536, 543, 545 resources, 6, 16, 120, 400 respiration, 240, 455, 485 response, 6, 111, 115, 184, 192, 200, 210, 219, 220, 221, 231, 244, 246, 250, 341, 350, 360, 368, 477 response time, 200, 221 restenosis, 477, 480 restoration, 337, 338 restrictions, 272 retail, 2, 3, 4, 6, 7, 13, 15, 16, 17, 18, 79, 250 retail guru, retail marketing literature, retail premises, retailing planning context, retro subculture, RF-plasma pretreatment, 280 RH, 30, 31, 261, 509, 521 Rhizopus, 319 rice husk, 445 rights, 10 ring flanges, viii, 519, 520, 521 ring spinning, viii, 519, 520, 521 ring spinning machine, 519, 521 ring travellers, 519 rings, 198, 207, 208, 214, 323, 328, 329, 399, 401, 404, 436, 519 risk(s), 100, 101, 252, 316, 317, 384, 395, 474, 477 risk factors, 317 room temperature, 158, 197, 198, 208, 211, 213, 214, 222, 244, 285, 320, 386, 404 root, 306 roughness, 306, 404, 408, 413, 417, 419, 475, 500, 533 routes, 279 Royal Society, 50, 119, 228, 232, 339 rubber, 31, 157, 159, 242, 245 rubbing fastness, 165 Russia, 10 ruthenium, 221 S saccharin, 217 safety, 5, 92, 145, 187, 191, 192, 227, 250, 447, 448, 449, 453, 457, 460 salts, 94, 163, 164, 167, 170, 177, 179, 241, 248, 249, 259, 261, 263, 264, 267, 268, 273, 279, 321, 372 sample surface, 300, 306, 531, 532 SAP, 512 572 Index satisfactory whiteness, 372 saturation, 296, 475 saturation index, 475 scaling, 478 scaling law, 478 scanning calorimetry, 361 scanning electron microscopy, 316, 321, 322, 326, 327, 341, 346, 545 scanning electronic microscope, 32 scarcity, 11 scattering, 108, 303, 341 scent, 346 school, 13, 278, 289 science, vii, 260, 269, 270, 288, 316, 336, 362, 377, 397 scope, 74, 82, 84, 190, 193, 260 screen-printing, 242 seafood, 361 second hand clothing stores, 10 second hand stock, 11 Second World, 84, 400 secondary cell, 24, 403 secondary hydroxyl groups, 130, 141, 149 secretion, 317, 319, 331 security, vii, 5, 81, 103, 107, 117, 118, 187, 194, 195, 209, 225, 250, 253, 448 sedimentation, 96 selectivity, 52, 312, 419 self-expression, self-indicating alert systems, 81, 118 SEM micrographs, 346, 347, 348 semiconductor(s), 211, 222, 277, 278, 279, 289, 308, 309, 311, 314, 453 semiconductor TiO2, 279 sensation(s), 393, 490 senses, 241 sensing, 118, 187, 190, 192, 194, 209, 225, 227, 240, 244, 247, 252, 460 sensing applications, 247 sensitivity, 176, 271, 290 sensors, vii, 188, 189, 208, 226, 227, 230, 239, 240, 245, 247, 250, 251, 252, 257, 447, 448, 449, 450, 455, 460, 461, 462, 487 Serbia, ix, x, xii, xiii, 162, 163, 166, 167, 168, 169, 170, 171, 172, 173, 174, 175, 319, 399 serine, 338 services, 17, 252, 253, 259, 260, 271 severe stress, 485 shade, 31, 34, 35, 36, 37, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 65, 164, 505, 508 shape, 107, 127, 188, 189, 190, 194, 206, 208, 226, 239, 240, 244, 245, 246, 247, 253, 255, 262, 265, 296, 346, 348, 349, 450, 471, 472, 473, 478, 490 shape memory alloys and polymers, 189, 244 shape memory materials, 226, 239 shape memory polymers, 206, 240, 245, 246 shape-memory, 245 shawl fabric, 506, 507 shear, 25, 51, 86, 93, 94, 95, 253, 467, 478 shear rates, 467, 478 shear rigidity, 25 sheep, 536, 537, 538 sheep wool, 536, 537 short-chain polysaccharides, 23 showing, 104, 182, 200, 261, 262, 265, 266, 269, 283, 291, 296, 299, 313, 314, 322, 327, 332, 533 side chain, 402 signals, 84, 134, 152, 240, 294, 448, 455, 532, 533 significance level, 527 signs, 64, 101, 227, 250, 252, 256, 329, 457, 462 silane, 404 silica, 127, 155, 362 silicon, 449 silicone treatment, 501 silicones, 375 silk, 54, 55, 78, 81, 112, 113, 115, 117, 118, 157, 158, 159, 168, 266, 268, 315, 317, 321, 325, 337, 339, 375, 400, 490, 536, 537, 538, 539 silk screen printed polyester, 168 silver, 165, 182, 246, 249, 262, 264, 267, 268, 273, 278, 280, 283, 286, 289, 294, 310, 311, 312, 313, 314, 384, 389, 397, 521, 542 silver biocidal surfaces, 278 silver treated wound dressings, 384 silvernic, 521, 524 simulation, 53, 54, 55, 56, 65, 66, 67, 71, 76, 115, 444, 467, 468, 479 simulations, 65, 467, 468, 478 Singapore, 381 SiO2, 27, 288, 362 SIP, 90 sisal, 538 skeletal muscle, 484 skeleton, 405 skin, vii, 209, 244, 250, 251, 264, 344, 370, 377, 387, 393, 460, 483, 484, 485, 487, 488, 490, 491, 495, 538 skin softeners, vii, 344 skin temperatures, 487 slip draft spinning system, 506 slow fashion, sludge, 124, 154 small business sector, small businesses, 55 small diameter blood vessels, 465, 466 small-scale retailers, 12 Index smart clothing, viii, 191, 192, 226, 251, 252, 253, 447, 448, 452 smart clothing design, 191 smart clothing system, 191, 192 smart materials, 189, 190, 227 smart medical textiles, 188 smart or intelligent textiles, 188 smart products, 384 smart structures, 247, 255 smart textile, vii, 187, 188, 189, 190, 191, 192, 194, 195, 196, 197, 199, 200, 201, 203, 204, 206, 207, 209, 211, 218, 219, 225, 226, 227, 239, 240, 242, 243, 244, 246, 248, 250, 251, 252, 254, 255, 344, 449, 450, 461, 462 smart wound-care materials, 188 smoothness, 475 social judgment, social order, 15 societal acceptance, sodium, 123, 124, 125, 126, 145, 147, 154, 155, 167, 172, 237, 241, 356, 361, 363, 364, 365, 372, 373, 375, 380, 383, 384, 385, 395, 404, 405, 406, 407, 408, 410, 417, 419, 502, 516 sodium alginate, 383, 384, 385, 395 sodium carbonate, 124, 372 sodium chlorite, 406, 407, 408, 410, 419 sodium chlorite modification, 406 sodium hydroxide, 123, 124, 125, 126, 404, 406, 410, 417, 502, 516 sodium hypochlorite, 405 Sodium periodate oxidation, 406 sodium salts, 372 softener, 374, 375 softness, 19, 36, 40, 49, 242, 501 software, 58, 59, 61, 65, 76, 79, 90, 290, 457, 533, 534, 535 softwoods, 402 solar cells, 189, 226, 449, 453, 454, 462 solar simulator, 294, 295, 297 soldier and weapons camouflage, 247 sol-gel, 277, 278, 375 sol-gel films, 277 sol-gel processes, 375 solid matrix, 107 solid phase, 244, 438 solid state, 109, 158, 232 solidification, 102 solubility, 92, 94, 98, 124, 129, 136, 140, 148, 157, 158, 159, 195, 279, 289, 418 solvatechromic, 246 solvation, 176, 427, 428 solvatochromism, 213 solvent molecules, 211 573 solvents, 87, 97, 98, 99, 100, 102, 121, 157, 167, 176, 177, 178, 179, 184, 185, 213, 216, 217, 229, 401, 402 sorption, 154, 399, 400, 403, 405, 406, 408, 413, 414, 415, 418, 419, 420, 423, 424, 428, 429, 436, 437, 440, 442, 443, 444 sorption process, 418, 419, 436, 437 sorption properties, 400, 403, 405, 406, 408, 415, 418, 440 SP, 510 Spain, x, xi, xii, xiii, 343, 345, 346, 353, 355 specialists, 271, 346 species, 112, 194, 195, 197, 208, 218, 230, 241, 278, 279, 280, 289, 290, 292, 294, 306, 312, 313, 315, 317, 318, 319, 320, 321, 325, 326, 328, 329, 331, 332, 333, 334, 336, 411, 427, 445 specific computer code, 467, 468 specific flexural rigidity, 502 specific gravity, 92 specific heat, 394, 486 specific properties, 400 specific structure, 399, 401 specific surface, 399, 402, 411, 432, 434, 435, 436, 440 specific surface area, 399, 411, 432, 434, 435, 436, 440 specific surface morphology, 402 specific thermal resistance, 509, 511, 512, 513, 514, 515 specific work of rupture, 502 specifications, 7, 20, 26, 367, 521 spectroscopy, 134, 155, 177, 185, 224, 290, 296, 312, 313, 316, 321, 322, 323, 324, 326, 329, 332, 339, 340, 341, 357, 364, 365, 379, 380 spherical shape, 346, 348, 349 spin, 289 spindle, 521 spindle speed, 521 spinnerets, 539, 542 spinning balloon angles, 526 spinning off primary fibrils, 403 spinning tension, 519, 520, 521, 522, 525, 527, 528 spirooxazines, 105, 107, 110, 115, 194, 197, 201, 213 spiropyrans, 105, 107, 194, 197, 201, 213, 216 sports clothing, 455 sports garments, 243, 247 sportsmen, 240 sportswear, 246, 457 Spring, 17 sputtering, 249, 277, 278, 283, 285, 286, 288, 289, 290, 292, 295, 296, 297, 301, 302, 303, 305, 306, 307, 312, 531 574 Index Sri Lanka, 27 stability, 20, 27, 49, 54, 74, 92, 94, 104, 105, 107, 160, 166, 182, 198, 200, 208, 221, 243, 248, 249, 256, 288, 312, 343, 344, 345, 348, 349, 351, 355, 466, 500 stabilization, 58, 146, 198, 436 stable states, 192 stainless steel filaments, 542 stainless steel yarn, 542 standard deviation, 421, 439 standard Martindale abrasion test method, 386 standard plastic optical fiber, 247 standard relative humidity, 410 standard test method, 383, 520 standard washing procedure, 28 Staphylococcus, 279, 313, 384, 396 Staphylococcus aureus, 279, 313, 384, 396 staple yarn production process, viii, 519 starch, 23, 36, 351, 377 static electricity charges, 401, 403 statistical analysis, 55, 259, 261, 296, 394 statistical significance, 296, 384 steady and pulsatile regimes, 467 steel, 95, 248, 254, 396, 468, 476, 542, 543 stenosis, 467, 478, 479, 480 stent, 465, 475, 476, 477, 478, 480 stereoisomeric forms, 214 stereomicroscope, 57 steric obstruction for sorption, 428 sterile, 295, 319 stiffness tester, 31, 386 stigma, stimuli-responsive materials, 190, 226 stimuli-responsive smart textiles, 187, 225 stimulus, 103, 116, 190, 193, 194, 200, 208, 218, 220, 226, 244, 246 STM, 30 stock, 10, 11 stoichiometry, 430 Stokes-Einsteind diffusion coefficient, 423 stone wash, 20, 21, 24, 41, 51 stone-wash effect, 25 storage, 92, 103, 104, 182, 194, 195, 210, 220, 239, 241, 242, 260, 269, 271, 272, 274, 315, 317, 320, 322, 335, 336, 337, 370, 449 storage and exhibition rooms of museums, 320 storage conditions, 320, 322, 335 store image, 12, 13 store interior, 12, 14 strategic management, 18 strategic position, street style, stress, 6, 241, 244, 245, 329, 330, 334, 341, 357, 409, 466, 467, 474, 475, 476, 484, 485, 496, 504 stress-strain curves, 330, 329, 330, 331, 334 stretching, 132, 134, 143, 150, 330 STRs, 511, 512 structural changes, 112, 321, 322, 323, 326, 330, 336, 339, 417 structural characteristics, 317 structural design of weaving, 499 structural formation, 213 structuring, 402 style, 2, 3, 4, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 243 stylists, 3, styrene, 98 sublimation fastness, 158, 165, 176 sublimation ink, 84 sublimation transfer printing techniques, 84 substitutes, 466, 480 substitution, 106, 123, 124, 126, 129, 130, 131, 136, 138, 139, 140, 141, 147, 148, 149, 153, 341, 400 substitution reaction, 129, 131, 141, 148, 149 succession, 469 succinic acid, 319, 326, 331, 357, 360, 361, 364, 371, 375, 376, 381 sugar beet, 154 sugar industry, 154 sulfadiazine-Ag salt, 279 sulfate, 167, 169, 170 sulfuric acid, 136, 145, 543 Sun, 365, 396, 443, 446, 497 super-hydrophilic, 279 supermolecular structure, 316, 321, 322, 332, 401, 442 superpolish, 521, 523, 524, 528 supply chain, 4, 90 surface area, 279, 295, 400, 411, 412, 430, 432, 433, 434, 435, 436, 440, 484, 487, 492 surface characteristics, 20, 432 surface deformation, 390 surface energy, 92, 279, 306, 308 surface functional groups, 412, 432, 436 surface layer, 249, 326 surface modification, 382 surface plasmon resonance, 303 surface pore structure, 408 surface properties, 324, 415, 440, 490 surface reactions, 279 surface structure, 67, 384, 533, 540, 542, 543, 545 surface tension, 92, 94, 99, 416 surfactants, 99, 350 surgical technique, 474 surplus, 243 surrogates, Index survival, 260, 268, 281, 282, 293, 396 sustainability, 13, 20, 22, 25, 49, 50, 118 sustainable denim, 20, 21, 22, 23, 25, 26 sustainable development, 353 suture, 468, 479 sweat, 377, 455, 488 Sweden, 83, 244 swelling, 92, 125, 404, 409, 412, 413, 415, 417, 423, 516 swelling and shrinkage of ultimate cells, 412, 417 swelling process, 423 Switzerland, x, xi, xiv, 51, 128, 136, 277 synergistic effect, 208 synthesis, v, vii, 107, 123, 124, 129, 136, 139, 140, 145, 146, 148, 157, 163, 167, 168, 170, 171, 173, 175, 179, 180, 181, 182, 183, 185, 191, 215, 216, 231, 234, 352 synthetic antibiotics, 278, 289 synthetic chemical materials, 540 synthetic fiber, 157, 163, 164, 184, 288, 400, 410, 538, 539, 545 synthetic fibers, 157, 163, 164, 184, 288, 400, 410, 538, 539, 545 synthetic organic colorants, 157, 159 synthetic textiles, 165, 317 T tailor-made eco-smart clothes, 450 tantalum, 476 tapestries, 316 target, 5, 6, 189, 283, 286, 292, 298, 438, 509 taste-makers, tear resistance, 253 technical applications, 465 technical textiles, vii, 85, 189, 243, 344, 399 techniques, vii, 6, 20, 81, 82, 84, 85, 90, 92, 93, 94, 95, 103, 108, 116, 117, 118, 119, 124, 188, 189, 192, 195, 196, 199, 204, 209, 216, 220, 278, 326, 338, 340, 344, 351, 355, 356, 462, 474, 480, 490, 533 technological advancement, 274 technological advances, vii, 465 technology(ies), 5, 21, 49, 54, 55, 77, 78, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 87, 88, 90, 92, 95, 100, 101, 103, 104, 118, 120, 188, 189, 190, 191, 227, 228, 234, 240, 241, 250, 252, 253, 260, 272, 275, 344, 350, 351, 377, 400, 447, 449, 450, 452, 455, 460, 461, 466, 471, 495, 520, 532, 545 teflon, 468 telecommunications, 240 TEM, 282, 285, 303 temperature-programmed desorption, 434, 445 575 TEMPO oxidation process, 405 temporarily prevent active fungal growth, 320 tenacity, 242, 403, 409, 410, 502, 507 tensile properties, 329, 330, 334, 336, 383, 384, 387, 388, 389, 409, 442, 522 tensile strength, 19, 20, 25, 30, 33, 34, 36, 37, 39, 41, 42, 128, 132, 139, 142, 147, 150, 321, 326, 357, 360, 371, 372, 373, 381, 383, 387, 388, 389, 396, 409, 468, 475, 500 tension, 92, 93, 94, 99, 416, 466, 471, 476, 504, 519, 520, 521, 522, 525, 526, 527, 528 TEOS, 375, 381 territory, 191 test prints, 65 testing, 5, 6, 7, 51, 53, 56, 74, 76, 154, 305, 313, 326, 351, 386, 397, 480, 494, 506 tetrachloroethylene, 164 tetraethoxysilane, 375 textile artificial vessels, 467 textile conservator, 271, 272, 273 textile fabrics, 51, 78, 101, 219, 240, 281, 386, 393, 397, 496, 497, 511 textile fibers, viii, 50, 248, 345, 449, 455, 477, 490, 492, 531 textile finishing process, 384, 394 textile fragments, 264, 275 textile heart valve, 466, 476 textile heart valve prosthesis, 476 textile historians, 259, 269, 273 textile implants, 471 textile industry, vii, 20, 23, 24, 47, 49, 50, 55, 63, 124, 136, 343, 344, 353, 356, 399, 401, 440, 533 textile materials, vii, 225, 239, 257, 312, 316, 322, 339, 362, 367, 377, 378, 384, 400, 440, 443, 465, 474, 477, 480, 488, 514 textile polymer surface, 280 textile preservation, 262, 273 textile printing, 53, 54, 55, 58, 66, 77, 78, 81, 83, 84, 85, 89, 90, 100, 120 textile prostheses, 466, 467, 471 textile reinforced synthetic material, 241 textile researchers, 260, 272 textile scaffolds, 241 textile sciences, 316 textile sensors, 188, 226, 250 textile substrates, vii, 53, 56, 59, 61, 76, 99, 108, 112, 114, 115, 117, 248, 249, 253, 345, 453 textile surface structure, 384 textile synthetic substrates, 56 textile vascular prosthesis, 472, 478 textile-based drug release systems, 188 textiles excavated, 260, 261, 262, 265, 266, 269, 272, 273 576 Index texture, 80, 115, 247, 317, 351 TGA, 360, 361 theatre, therapy, 118, 189, 209, 252, 310, 460 thermal (bubble) inkjet printers, 54 thermal absorbtivity, 383, 384, 386, 391, 393, 394, 396 thermal absorbtivity values, 383, 394, 396 thermal analysis, 360, 361, 380 thermal comfort, viii, 383, 384, 395, 397, 483, 488, 489, 490, 492, 494, 496 thermal comfort properties, viii, 383, 384, 395, 483 thermal conductivity, 384, 386, 391, 392, 394, 488, 489, 490, 493, 497, 509, 517 thermal decolouration, 112, 114 thermal decomposition, 361, 365, 430, 431, 432, 445 thermal degradation, 116, 155 thermal diffusion, 386 thermal energy, 190, 241 thermal feeling, 387 thermal history, 210 thermal inkjet print heads, 86 thermal insulating applications, viii thermal insulating material, 499, 500, 515 thermal insulation, 242, 246, 397, 484, 488, 489, 490, 492, 493, 499, 500, 501, 504, 505, 506, 508, 509, 510, 514, 515, 518 thermal insulation properties, 397, 484, 488, 490, 499, 504, 518 thermal management system, 93 thermal properties, 384, 391, 485 thermal resistance, 383, 384, 386, 391, 392, 396, 484, 489, 490, 492, 493, 507, 509, 511, 512, 513, 514, 515 thermal stability, 105, 198, 208 thermal storage materials, 241 thermal transmittance, 490, 492, 494 thermal treatment, 404, 444 thermal-transfer recording, 165, 181 thermo physiological properties, 383, 384 thermochromic dye, 210 thermochromic materials, 189, 211, 214, 247 thermochromic molecular switches, 211 thermochromic pigments, 210, 216 thermodynamics, 184, 444 thermofixation, 158 thermo-regulating effect, 242, 243 thermoregulatory process of human body, viii, 483 thickness, 56, 242, 243, 286, 287, 288, 295, 306, 323, 384, 386, 391, 392, 427, 455, 478, 485, 488, 489, 490, 492, 493, 506, 507, 508, 509, 511, 512, 513, 514, 515, 533, 537 thin films, 101, 155, 224, 283, 292, 314 thinning, 94 thrombo-embolism, 474 thrombosis, 467, 471, 477 time periods, 2, 279 time use, 450 TiN-Ag nanoparticulate films, 292 tinctorial strength, 159, 171 TIR, 323 tissue, 77, 90, 128, 188, 240, 466, 472, 474, 475 tissue degeneration, 474 tissue engineering, 77, 90, 188, 240 titanate, 89 titania, 313 titanium, 220, 248, 311, 357, 364, 375, 376, 381 titanium dioxide (TiO2) nanoparticles, 375 TLC analysis, 266 tobacco, 377 tobacco smoke, 377 toluene, 128 tones, 62 torus, 377 toxic metals, 219 toxicity, 263, 289, 352, 362 toys, 195, 210, 245 trade, 7, 10, 12 traditional vintage retailers, training, 101 transcripts, transformation(s), 66, 73, 104, 105, 116, 194, 201, 213, 289, 313, 404, 430, 434 transition metal, 193, 211, 220, 221 transition temperature, 244, 245 translation, 87, 496 transmission, 84, 108, 115, 195, 240, 251, 297, 323, 341, 449, 479, 489, 490, 496, 497, 509 transparency, 248 transplant, 471 transport, 90, 199, 249, 260, 271, 353, 395, 399, 415, 422, 423, 427, 428, 429, 437, 438, 440, 446, 484, 486, 493 transport phenomena within the fibers, 429 transportation, 85, 447 transverse thickenings, 539 traveller coating, 519, 523, 525, 527 traveller coating’s effect, 523 traveller drive angle, 520 traveller profile cross-section, 523 traveller profiles, 524, 528 traveller weight, 519, 520, 521, 522, 523, 524, 525, 526, 527, 528 treatment methods, 384 triangular cross-section, 539 tricarboxylic acid, 379 577 Index Trichoderma ressei, 23 trickle down, trisazo pyridone colorants, 173 trypsin, 442 tungsten, 64, 220, 221 Turkey, xi, xiii, 27, 383, 519, 521, 528 twill fabric, 21 twist, viii, 329, 384, 506, 517, 519, 520, 521, 522, 523, 524, 527, 528 U United Kingdom (UK), xi, xiii, xiv, 1, 3, 10, 14, 15, 18, 30, 50, 81, 84, 119, 121, 153, 187, 190, 229, 255, 259, 286, 289, 290, 292, 339, 383, 385, 386, 494, 519 ultra-high local temperature, 88 ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene, 541 ultra-microtome, 282 ultrasonic anemometry, 467 ultrasonic application, 385, 393, 394 ultrasonic bath, 385 ultrasonic energy, 383, 384, 387, 388, 390, 392, 394, 395, 396 ultrasonic energy application, 383, 385, 387, 390, 396 ultrasound, 396 underclothes, 251 unethical practices, 2, unevenness, 524 uniform, 72, 92, 99, 112, 113, 249, 254, 279, 280, 283, 289, 305, 306, 314, 510 unique features, 124, 197 uniqueness, 1, 3, 4, 9, 13 universities, vii, 247 unpleasant mouldy odour, 317 unsaturated monomer molecules, 541 upholstery, 85, 517 urea, 54, 237, 356, 369, 370 urea-formaldehyde, 369 uronic acid monomers, 384 United States (USA), 56, 58, 59, 72, 74, 83, 99, 119, 120, 121, 190, 227, 228, 229, 235, 255, 257, 275, 345, 346, 378, 386, 495, 496 7, 364, 375, 376, 381, 400, 403, 447, 460, 490 UV absorption spectra, 184 UV irradiation, 103, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 110, 111, 114, 115, 117, 196, 197, 206, 317, 357, 364, 376, 381 UV light, 82, 100, 101, 102, 103, 104, 105, 107, 108, 109, 110, 111, 113, 115, 116, 117, 194, 196, 197, 200, 201, 203, 205, 206, 207, 244, 357, 460 UV protection properties, 400 UV radiation, 64, 65, 375, 403 UV-curable inkjet inks, 100, 101 UV-vis reflectance, 303 V vacancies, 296 vacuum, 88, 125, 128, 280, 281, 286, 289, 531 valence, 222, 223, 375 Valencia, 351 validation, 16, 26 valuation, 80, 480, 488, 494, 497 valve, 89, 465, 466, 474, 475, 479, 480 van der Waals forces, 306 vanadium, 220 vapor, 36, 155, 245, 290, 308, 401 variables, 154, 345, 424, 484, 510, 512, 515, 517 variance analysis, 526 variations, 66, 71, 79, 108, 157, 159, 221, 222, 242, 388, 409 varieties, 47, 199 varnishes, 157, 159, 167 vascular prostheses, 466, 471 vascular surgery, 466, 471, 473, 475, 478 vascular wall, 467, 478 VDF, 452 vegetables, 218 vehicles, 64, 352 vein, 473 velocity, 87, 88, 90, 92, 93, 96, 466, 467, 479 ventilation, 336, 484, 491 versatility, 84, 216 vessels, 266, 465, 466, 467, 468, 473, 479 vibration, 134, 330 videos, 533 vintage, vii, 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 vintage clothing, 1, 2, 3, 4, 8, 10 vintage concept, 12, 13 vintage connoisseur, vintage consumer, 3, 4, vintage definitions, vintage era, 10 vintage fashion, vii, 1, 2, 3, 4, 7, 8, 9, 12, 13 vintage fashion clothing, vii, vintage fashion community, 12 vintage fashion consumer, 1, 2, vintage fashion retailers, 1, 2, 7, 13 vintage retail store, vintage retailing literature, vintage trend, 2, 4, 8, 10 vinyl monomers, 154 viscoelastic character, 472 578 Index viscose, 51, 112, 113, 115, 117, 157, 159, 340, 410, 506, 517, 540 viscose rayon, 51, 157, 159 viscosity, 54, 90, 92, 93, 95, 98, 126, 127, 130, 131, 139, 141, 149, 195, 385, 414, 416, 467 viscosity control agent, 98 visible light spectrum, 531 vision, 191, 227, 455 visual impression, 67 visual system, 71 visualization, 195, 493 vitamin A, 351 vitamins, 210, 344 volatile organic compounds, 100, 317 volatile solvent, 87, 100 volatility, 98 volume electric resistance, 410, 411 W walking, 449, 450, 484, 494 wall crimping, 467 war, 84 wardrobe designers, warehouse, warm body, 486, 491 warm cloth weaving, 506 warm fabrics, 500 warm garments, 499, 501, 515 warning systems, 104, 240 warp directions, 386, 387 warp-knitted fabrics, 468 wash fastness, 104, 115, 165, 176, 182, 396 washing effects, vii, 20, 21, 23, 24, 33, 41, 48, 345 washing industries, 20, 24, 47 washing process, 21, 22, 23, 24, 35, 48, 55, 348, 349 washing techniques, 20 washing/finishing treatment, 20 Washington, 50, 79, 120, 314, 336, 339, 340 waste, 22, 100, 101, 153, 338, 399, 401, 418, 430, 436, 440, 441, 443, 444, 445, 450, 455 waste disposal, 399, 401, 430 waste management, 455 wastewater, 440, 443 watches, 11 water absorption, 19, 25, 31, 33, 35, 36, 38, 39, 40, 42, 43, 48, 52, 132, 139, 142, 147, 150 water holding capacity, 413 water purification, 399, 401, 430 water repellence property, 501 water retention value, 412, 413 water sorption, 414 water vapor, 36, 245, 308 water vapour permeability, 383, 384, 395, 396 waterproof elements, 457 waterproof fabrics, 384 wavelengths, 64, 107, 116, 192, 194, 200, 210, 295, 531 WAXS, 340, 442 wealth, 190 weapons, 247, 252 wear, 10, 11, 14, 20, 21, 22, 211, 239, 242, 243, 255, 367, 386, 389, 449, 484, 490, 505 wear performance, 21, 22 wearable computers, 226, 227, 240 wearable electronics, 188, 249, 250, 447, 448, 450, 455 wearable textiles, 188, 500 wearing apparel, 136 weather conditions, viii, 74, 246, 251, 252, 253, 447, 483 weaving technique, 466, 478 web, 120, 510 websites, 7, 12 wedding dress, weft directions, 30, 34, 35, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 386, 507 weft-knitted structures, 468 weight changes, 528 weight loss, 30, 31, 34, 35, 37, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 48, 407, 430, 502, 503 welfare, 270, 272 wellness, 545 wet-spinning process, 241 wettability, 51, 192, 415, 416, 417 wettability relationships, 416 wetting, 92, 94, 95, 99, 249, 393, 414, 415, 417 white light source, 533 White Paper, 461 wide band-gap semiconductors, 278, 314 wide-field optical microscopy, 532 windows, 244 wires, 189, 200, 240, 248, 253, 447, 452, 462 Wisconsin, 340 withdrawal, 504 wood, 101, 124, 154, 155, 166, 264, 317, 326, 338, 339, 340, 341, 430, 441 wood residue, 124, 154 wool fabric, 325, 382, 383, 384, 385, 387, 389, 390, 391, 395 wool fibre, 266, 331, 332, 334, 336, 340, 383, 501 wool proteins, 268 wool-based material, 499 woollen blanket, 505 woollenisation, 501, 502 woollenised jute, 501, 504, 509, 510 579 Index woollenised jute yarn, 501 workers, 101, 244, 289, 316, 360, 409, 449, 493 workflow, 53 working conditions, 239 workload, 251 worldwide, 262, 400, 494 wound dressing, 289, 384, 540 wound infection, 310 woven and knitted grafts, 468 woven bifurcated prosthesis, 471 woven carpets, 504 woven fabrics, 136, 386, 390, 392, 393, 394, 480, 492, 493, 496 woven polyester fabrics, 465, 475 wrinkle resistant cotton, 367 wrinkle resistant textiles, 371 wrinkle-resistant effect, 371 wrinkling, 240, 355, 367, 368 X xerophilic species, 318 xerotolerant fungi, 320 XML, 180 X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy (XPS), 280, 282, 283, 290, 291, 292, 294, 313, 353 X-ray diffraction (XRD), 285 Y yarn breaking strength, 523 yarn characteristics, 520 yarn count, 519, 521, 522, 527 yarn elongation, 528 yarn hairiness, 519, 520, 521, 522, 525, 528 yarn irregularity, 527, 528 yarn production tension, 522 yarn properties, 329, 384, 501, 519, 520, 522, 527 yarn spinning, 242, 520, 522, 527, 528 yarn spinning systems, 520 yarn spinning tension, 527, 528 yarn structure, 474, 475, 499, 500, 501 yarn twist, 519, 520, 521, 522, 523, 527, 528 yarn twist number, 522 yarn twist value, 520 yield, 109, 127, 129, 130, 131, 132, 140, 141, 148, 149, 150, 168, 172, 208, 272, 361, 400, 430, 476 young people, young professionals, Z zeitgeist, zero-test length, 409 zinc, 420, 421, 422, 428, 429, 436, 444, 445 ZnO, 211 ...CHEMISTRY RESEARCH AND APPLICATIONS TEXTILES HISTORY, PROPERTIES AND PERFORMANCE AND APPLICATIONS No part of this digital document may be reproduced,... be found on Nova’s website under the e-book tab CHEMISTRY RESEARCH AND APPLICATIONS TEXTILES HISTORY, PROPERTIES AND PERFORMANCE AND APPLICATIONS MD IBRAHIM H MONDAL EDITOR New York Copyright... sourced second hand merchandise from a wide variety of second hand stores and markets both at home and abroad, charity and second hand clothing stores, car boot sales, recycling plants and many garments