The Development of Microaggressions in the Online Natural Hair Co

Background

This research explores the impact of curlism on Black women within the online natural hair community, emphasizing the deep cultural and political significance of Black hair, which has continually evolved over time As the natural hair movement gained momentum, hair typing emerged as a critical aspect of identity A notable moment occurred in 2012 when Oprah Winfrey featured her natural hair on the cover of her magazine, O, sparking a debate among Black women regarding the representation of natural hair textures Some argued that Oprah's hair did not accurately depict a Black woman's natural hair unless she was of mixed race, while others affirmed that many Black women share a similar hair texture, regardless of their racial background (George-Parkin, 2012).

In attempt to help women better understand their hair texture, Oprah’s personal hair stylist, Andre Walker introduced “The Hair Typing System” The following is an example of the chart:

The purpose of the hair typing system is to help women identify their hair type, enabling them to select the most suitable products for their natural texture This system is widely shared on natural hair websites and blogs, highlighting the diversity of hair textures According to Walker, “I always recommend embracing your natural texture,” emphasizing that while kinky hair may have limited styling options, professional relaxing is the only alteration he suggests for this hair type (Wallace, 2011) Natural hair communities have adopted Walker's hair typing system to assist newcomers in understanding their curl patterns and finding appropriate hair care products.

Kinky hair, particularly Type 4, is known for its fragility and tendency to break easily, making it challenging to achieve longer lengths even with careful handling like combing To promote growth, styles such as braids, dreads, or twists can be beneficial as they require less frequent combing While some may prefer a shorter cut, which can be attractive on certain individuals, embracing your natural texture is key However, considering a mild chemical relaxer or texturizer can be a viable option for those struggling with manageability, breakage, and lack of shine This approach allows for a more manageable texture while still maintaining a natural look, facilitating a harmonious relationship with your hair.

Walker’s remarks highlight the existing hierarchy in the hair typing system, particularly reflected in his disparaging comments regarding type 4 hair textures In response to Walker’s explanation, several naturals shared their thoughts, showcasing a range of perspectives on the issue, as seen in the comments section beneath the article "Andre Talks Down Kinky Hair: A Response," published on July 11, 2011, on Curlynikki.com.

Mr Walker's hair typing system is criticized as divisive and outdated, akin to the discriminatory paper bag test Many believe that categorizing hair types does not aid in product selection or styling, and it perpetuates the notion that kinky hair is inferior It’s essential to reject such sentiments and promote a more inclusive understanding of all hair types.

Many people question the advice to chemically alter fragile hair, arguing that it is better to embrace its natural state This contradiction raises concerns about the implications of such treatments on hair health.

Tabitha expresses her deep disappointment in someone's views on kinky hair, stating that their credibility has diminished in her eyes She questions the authenticity of having natural hair when it has been chemically altered, emphasizing that such alterations contradict the very definition of "natural."

Black women in the natural hair community face significant challenges related to societal beauty standards, impacting their daily lives and health Research highlights that many Black women avoid exercising due to concerns about their hair, with a 2011 statement from U.S Surgeon General Regina Benjamin noting that 40% of Black women skip workouts for this reason Additional issues within the community include concerns about hair texture, length retention, maintenance, and the exclusion of those who are not embracing natural hair These challenges often contradict the motivations for choosing natural hair, underscoring the social implications of the research problem.

As the trend of natural hair among Black women rises, hair texture significantly influences perceptions of beauty, with longer lengths often being favored Research indicates that these preferences are deeply rooted in societal standards.

Black women choose to embrace their natural hair for various reasons, including a desire for a healthier lifestyle, curiosity about their natural texture, support for their daughters, and to save time and energy spent on relaxers (Thomas, 2013) Despite forming supportive alliances, many Black women find inspiration in those with softer hair textures, revealing how Eurocentric beauty standards continue to influence perceptions of natural hair This preference can perpetuate "curlism," where Black women may subconsciously aspire to hair that suggests racial ambiguity rather than embracing their Black identity, ultimately undermining the community's goal of empowerment.

The perception of identity among Black individuals is significantly influenced by differences, particularly in the context of the natural hair movement As more Black women embrace their natural hair, hair care companies have started to develop products specifically for naturally curly textures However, these products often categorize Black women based on their curl patterns, revealing an underlying bias Consequently, the popularity of relaxers has decreased in response to this shift towards natural hair.

The Black hair care market has experienced a significant shift, with relaxers now accounting for only 21% of the market and expenditures dropping to $152 million, a 15% decrease since 2011, largely due to the rise of natural hair trends (Mintel, 2013) Brands like Miss Jessie’s, which promotes the transformation of kinks into curls, and Mixed Chicks are influencing the perception of curl patterns among Black women However, these products often emphasize looser curls, specifically targeting curl patterns 3A-3C, which may inadvertently create a divide within the Black community by suggesting that these patterns are the standard for “achievable” natural hair.

This research utilizes Black feminist thought to examine the triple oppression faced by Black women, particularly in relation to curlism and its impact on their lived experiences By employing a thematic analysis within this theoretical framework, the study investigates the elements of oppression, resistance, and empowerment among Black women with natural hair, highlighting the inequalities surrounding curl types within this community.

This study investigates the impact of curlism within the natural hair community, employing Black feminist thought to analyze the experiences of diverse Black women as they navigate a society marked by colorism By focusing on Black women in the United States, the research addresses critical issues related to black womanhood, self-definition, and the dynamics of oppression and resistance The multifaceted nature of Black feminist thought provides a valuable lens through which to explore hair stories that reveal the challenges faced by this community, particularly curlism, which can hinder the advancement of Black women Given the unique relationship Black women have with their hair, this specific theoretical framework enhances the understanding of the research problem, highlighting the importance of context in addressing these issues.

Black feminist thought emphasizes self-reliance, self-definition, and independence for Black women, highlighting the importance of their unique perspectives in combating social inequalities As Patricia Hill Collins notes, the suppression of knowledge from oppressed groups facilitates the dominance of those in power, indicating that the lack of dissent can lead to the victimization of these groups Black women, historically marginalized, have redefined their thought processes to advocate for their emancipation and resist injustices that mainstream feminism often overlooks This framework enables Black women to assess their experiences through their own lenses, which is crucial for understanding the challenges faced by the natural hair community in empowering all its members.

Statement of Problem

The natural hair community has significantly impacted Black women, encouraging them to embrace their natural hair However, the message of self-love for all curl patterns remains inconsistent, particularly for Type 4 naturals, who often face dismissal and lack of representation This ongoing controversy surrounding Black hair not only affects daily life but has also led to the establishment of a hair hierarchy within the community Scholar Paulette M Caldwell emphasizes the injustice of employers regulating personal grooming choices, highlighting the deep personal significance of hair for Black individuals.

This study explores the online environments where Black women may face hair texture discrimination, focusing on the natural hair community By thematically analyzing YouTube videos and blog posts that address curlism, along with the accompanying comments, the research highlights the impact of hair texture discrimination on Black women.

Purpose of Study

This study aims to explore the impact of curlism on Black women within the online natural hair community by analyzing conversations and comments It specifically targets Black women aged 18 and older who have been natural for at least two years or have been natural throughout their lives The research addresses three key questions: what women value about embracing their natural hair, the challenges and biases they face during this journey, and the ways in which they resist the oppressions encountered The focus is primarily on hair texture discrimination, rather than the specific environments in which these issues arise.

Significance of Study

This study aims to address a significant gap in current literature by examining the experiences of Black women within the natural hair community, focusing on the challenges they face due to their hair type While previous research has looked into the motivations for Black women embracing their natural hair and the difficulties encountered in professional settings, there has been insufficient exploration of the unique issues faced by those in the natural hair community This lack of academic discourse highlights the urgent need for further research on how these experiences impact the overall well-being and perceptions of beauty among Black women By shedding light on the microaggressions and challenges within the natural hair movement, this research seeks to foster deeper conversations and understanding of the community's dynamics.

This study shifts the focus from comparing natural hair to dominant beauty standards, instead examining the internal binaries within the online natural hair community While there is a correlation between the preference for softer hair textures over kinkier ones and the association with whiteness over blackness, the primary aim of this research is not to analyze white versus black comparisons.

This research aims to address and potentially eradicate hair texture discrimination faced by Black women within the natural hair community and beyond By examining the impact of this issue on Black women, the study highlights the need for future research in the natural hair community It contributes valuable insights to the field of African American Studies, emphasizing the importance of understanding Black women's perspectives Furthermore, the findings suggest that natural hair communities and beauty brands can enhance their practices by improving or eliminating hair typing based on curl patterns, which often perpetuates bias.

The conversation surrounding Black hair remains significant, reflecting the intricate relationship between Black women and their hair Author Cheryl Thompson highlights that while Black hair may appear fun with its diverse styling options, each style often carries a personal narrative and can lead to irreversible scalp damage Consequently, many Black women are moving away from chemically processed or relaxed hair to embrace their natural texture This shift has brought hair typing to the forefront, serving as a crucial identifier within the natural hair community, which has become increasingly aware of the varied hair textures that exist among its members.

Nature of Study

This research employs thematic content analysis to identify key themes in discussions within the online natural hair community regarding natural hair discrimination The analysis encompasses three YouTube videos and two natural hair blogs, each offering insights into the research problem The findings highlight the collective experiences and perspectives shared by individuals in the community, contributing to a deeper understanding of natural hair discrimination.

Thematic analysis, as described by Greg Guest and Kathleen M Macqueen, emphasizes the identification and description of both implicit and explicit ideas within qualitative data, rather than merely counting words or phrases (2012, p 10) This analytical approach employs coding to develop identified themes, which can then be applied to future research endeavors.

Thematic analysis involves several key steps: ensuring data compliance, creating codes, identifying themes from these codes, reviewing and defining the themes, and ultimately producing findings Chapter 4 visually represents the relationships among the codes According to Guest and Macqueen (2012), thematic analysis is particularly effective in capturing the intricate meanings found within textual data sets.

This study highlights the critical issue of hair texture discrimination faced by Black women in online environments, shedding light on the significant challenges they encounter.

Research Questions

The overarching research question for this study includes the following: What role does curlism play in the natural hair community?

1 What do women value about going natural?

2 What challenges/biases do women encounter on their natural hair journey?

3 How do women resist the oppressions they encounter?

This study defines curlism as the discrimination based on hair texture, where certain hair types are valued over others To explore the dynamics of curlism within the natural hair community, key questions focus on its personal impact on Black women and the role of natural hair beauty brands in either alleviating or exacerbating this issue The overarching research questions guide a thematic content analysis aimed at uncovering these critical insights.

The research focuses on curlism within the natural hair community, particularly in digital spaces Bloggers and vloggers have established online platforms to discuss curlism, which, paradoxically, also perpetuates the very issue they aim to address within the community.

Theoretical Framework

The theoretical framework guiding this research is Black feminist thought, which examines the dynamics of Black women's relationships with each other, their employers, and their families and communities This critical social theory is rooted in an African-centered perspective, addressing the intersection of race, class, and gender oppression stemming from U.S slavery.

Black feminist thought plays a crucial role in shaping the relationships of women of African descent within Black American families, communities, and workplaces By incorporating the unique worldviews of Black women, this perspective empowers them to confront and challenge the pervasive stereotypical images that dominate popular culture and influence policy.

Black feminist thought aims to unite women of African descent across national borders, addressing their shared experiences under colonialism shaped by racial, sexist, and classist factors African feminist Obioma Nnaemeka emphasizes the importance of understanding the connections not only between blacks in Africa and the African Diaspora but also among themselves.

This research utilizes a theoretical framework that amplifies the voices of Black women in the United States while highlighting the interconnectedness of Black women across the African Diaspora.

This framework allows the researcher to move beyond the white/black binary by employing an independent Black feminist perspective to address the unique issue of curlism faced by Black women While incorporating Black feminism poses challenges, particularly regarding the potential marginalization of white women's experiences, situating this thought within a transnational context enables a broader understanding of hair texture discrimination among women in the African Diaspora Although online access facilitates the inclusion of women outside the United States, the study ultimately excludes those not residing in the U.S.

This research explores curlism through the lens of Black women sharing their lived experiences related to oppression, empowerment, and resistance By focusing on these narratives, the study moves beyond the white/black binary, highlighting the shared concerns of women of African descent Employing thematic analysis, the researcher identifies and analyzes key themes related to curlism, utilizing the principles of Black feminist thought to deepen the understanding of these issues.

Natural Hair Terminology

Due to the context of the research, significant definitions are provided below:

Natural hair- Hair whose texture has not been altered by chemical straighteners, such as relaxers or texturizers (blackhair.about.com)

Afro: hairstyle that is rounded in shape and naturally curly coiled hair (Nique1076, 2011) All of the following definitions are from Naturallycurly.com

Blogger- a person who writes their opinion and observations online

Vlogger- a person who records himself or herself talking about their experiences and opinions Curlism- The belief that a particular curl pattern is better than another

Hair typing system- system details the varieties of wavy, curly and coily hair

3A- Curly Twirly (Well-defined curls and definition, naturally big and loose curls)

3B- Curly Spirally (Well-defined springy curls, bouncy ringlets)

3C- Curly Coily (Kinky, tightly curled)

4A- Coily Springy (Tightly coiled with a S pattern)

4B- Coily Crimpy (Less defined, the curls have a Z pattern)

4C- Coily Ziggly (Wiry, and course)

Assumptions

This research explores the impact of hair texture expectations within the natural hair community, particularly among Black women Many expect their natural hair to resemble that of mixed-race individuals, leading some to delay wearing their hair out until it reaches a certain length for more defined curls Additionally, products marketed to Black naturals often cater to softer hair textures, promoting looser curls while neglecting those with tighter or kinkier hair The hair typing system further exacerbates divisions within the Black community, creating distinctions based on hair texture that mirror the historical divide between straight and natural hair These observations suggest that hair texture discrimination has permeated the natural hair community, significantly affecting various aspects of life for Black women.

The natural hair community and beauty brands play a significant role in perpetuating curlism, influencing how Black women and others perceive their hair Additionally, hair texture discrimination can hinder the advancement of Black individuals, impacting their life opportunities.

Scope, Limitations, and Delimitations

This qualitative study employs thematic content analysis to explore hair texture discrimination within the natural hair community While the findings provide valuable insights, the study's limitations include a small sample size, which may not fully represent the experiences of all Black women in this community Additionally, it introduces the concept of curlism into academic discourse, highlighting a previously overlooked area that warrants further research Overall, this study is a progressive step towards acknowledging and understanding the complexities of the natural hair community in scholarly discussions.

Summary

This chapter introduces the research focused on the historically complex relationship Black women have with their hair, particularly in light of the rise of the natural hair community and beauty brands The significance of amplifying the lived experiences of Black women within this community led to the selection of Black feminist thought as the theoretical framework The chapter also addresses the assumptions and limitations impacting the study's results The subsequent chapter will analyze past literature on Black hair, colorism, and beauty brands, identifying existing gaps in the research.

This literature review examines the politics of Black hair from both historical and contemporary perspectives, highlighting significant findings from previous studies while identifying gaps in the research It emphasizes the importance of understanding the emergence of natural hair movements in the late 1960s to 1970s and the evolving politics surrounding Black hair Scholars have noted that Black women navigate a complex relationship with their hair, influenced by media representations that complicate this dynamic The review encompasses a comprehensive search on Black hair and colorism, laying a solid foundation for further investigation into the impacts of curlism within the online natural hair community This exploration sheds light on the development of colorism and curlism, providing valuable insights into their roles in shaping the experiences of Black women regarding their hair.

Pre-Enslavement/ Post Enslavement

Black hair carries great significance and even greater social baggage Before Black hair was in bondage, the variety of hair texture ranging from “deep ebony, kinky curls of the

Black hair holds deep social and cultural significance in African societies, reflecting one's status, wealth, age, religion, and marital status (Byrd and Tharps, 2001) Beyond these social markers, larger hairstyles were believed to connect individuals more closely to the divine In their book *Hair Story*, Ayana D Byrd and Lori L Tharps discuss how the meaning of Black hair has evolved from Africa to America, emphasizing its intrinsic social, aesthetic, and spiritual importance to African identity for thousands of years (Byrd and Tharps, 2001, p.7) Despite the changes brought about by the slave trade, the significance of Black hair continues to play a vital role in shaping the identity of African people.

Historical research by Byrd and Tharps reveals that before the slave trade, European explorers were fascinated by the intricate textures and styles of Black hair while engaging in trade of goods However, this interest turned exploitative as Europeans capitalized on the willingness of Africans to trade human cargo, resulting in the forced enslavement of over 20 million individuals over nearly 400 years This tragic era is referred to as Maafa, or the African Holocaust.

The ongoing Holocaust against African people is recognized as a crime against humanity, with scholars highlighting the primary responsibility of Europeans (Shahadaah, 2012) Before transporting slaves, Europeans would shave the heads of individuals, ostensibly for sanitary reasons; however, this act was a deliberate attempt to erase their culture and disrupt the connection between Africans and their hair (Byrd and Tharps, 2001) Consequently, this has led to a complex relationship between Black women and their hair.

During enslavement, field slaves had minimal time and resources for hair grooming, often resorting to head rags for sun protection, which exacerbated hair diseases like ringworm and lice, leading to breakage and baldness In contrast, house slaves, typically lighter-skinned and with straighter hair, had more time for grooming and often wore wigs to emulate their masters This disparity contributed to the cultural distinction between "good" and "bad" hair, where straight hair was associated with economic opportunities and social advantages Byrd argues that this classification stemmed from the differential treatment of slaves based on skin tone and hair texture.

The Development of Good and Bad Hair

Research indicates that the concepts of "good hair" and "bad hair" originated during the era of slavery, where lighter skin and softer hair were associated with social advantages for enslaved individuals Scholar Tracy Owens Patton, who directs African-American Studies, highlights this historical context.

Diaspora Studies at the University of Wyoming highlights the historical implications of beauty standards in the Black community, noting that the concept of "good hair" versus "bad hair" stems from a hierarchy established during slavery (Patton, 2006) This socially constructed perception significantly influences how Black individuals view themselves and each other In Whitney Bellinger's study, "Why African American Women Try To Obtain ‘Good Hair’," she investigates the motivations behind Black women's choices regarding their hair, revealing that some young African-American girls believe straightening their hair does not equate to imitating whiteness Conversely, others express their decision to embrace their natural hair as a reflection of racial pride instilled in them from a young age Nonetheless, negative associations persist around nappy or kinky hair, with some women perceiving "good hair" as manageable and "bad hair" as unmanageable (Gilchrist, 2011, p 15).

Bellinger explores the perspectives of young women from various racial backgrounds to understand why African-American women modify their hair The responses from African-American participants reveal that the main motivation for altering their hair is the pursuit of 'good hair,' a standard of beauty that is often seen as unattainable Bellinger contends that this notion of 'good hair' is a myth perpetuated across generations, primarily among Black women, highlighting the societal pressures they face regarding beauty standards.

Nevertheless “African- American women still continue to attain this ideal” (Bellinger, 2007, p.70).

The Black Power Movement

Between 1965 and 1979, the Afro and Natural hairstyles emerged as significant symbols in Black culture, profoundly impacting the politics surrounding Black hair According to Byrd and Tharps, hair became a representation of either integration within the American political system or a rallying cry for Black Power and nationalism While Black hair initially asserted a strong connection to African ancestry, by the end of 1979, the Afro had transformed into a mere hairstyle, losing much of its political significance The portrayal of cornrows by actress Bo Derek in a 1979 film illustrated how these hairstyles could be adopted by anyone, regardless of skin color, further altering their cultural meaning.

The transition away from the 'Black is Beautiful' movement marked a significant shift for many Americans, with some African-American women perceiving the alteration of their natural hair as an act of self-hatred In contrast, during the 1960s, others began to embrace their hair as a powerful political statement and a symbol of the Black Power movement.

The Afro hairstyle, characterized by its rounded shape and natural curls, emerged during the Black Power movement as a symbol of defiance against white societal norms Today, many Black women perceive wearing their hair naturally as a personal choice rather than a political statement, reflecting a belief that hair is simply a part of their identity Scholars King and Niabaly advocate for increased access to hair-related information for Black women from a young age, suggesting that this knowledge can empower them to make informed hair choices and embrace their natural styles without fear of stigma However, the feasibility of this solution remains uncertain.

The Black Power movement highlights the theme of resistance in relation to Black hair Sociologist Rosa Weitz notes that traditional sociological studies of power and resistance primarily examine these concepts at a political level, where social movements emerge.

Weitz (2001) emphasizes the need to understand resistance and its effectiveness, noting that women of color often prioritize accommodation to mainstream beauty standards over outright rebellion, particularly in the context of their hair While the Black Power Movement initially sought to challenge dominant beauty ideals, Weitz suggests that women are drawn to conventional attractiveness as a means to gain power in both personal and professional spheres This pursuit of conventional beauty can significantly impact socioeconomic status, as physical traits like natural Black hair may hinder opportunities Ultimately, the political motivations behind natural hairstyles are overshadowed by the pressing realities of limited opportunities for marginalized groups.

The evolution of Black hair politics, though brief, created an opportunity for Black individuals, especially women, to challenge white beauty standards and embrace their identity However, the focus shifted more towards political implications rather than fostering a distinct Black aesthetic.

Bryd emphasizes that redefining beauty is a revolutionary concept for Black Americans, particularly for Black women who face unique challenges related to skin color and hair texture According to Audrey Elisa Kerr, hair politics are deeply gendered, positioning Black women as primary victims of societal beauty standards that often marginalize their natural features.

William Cross's analysis of the Black Power Movement highlights its role in transforming Black identity through the establishment of a collective identity among Black individuals While this movement addresses issues of assimilation and alienation, it also reflects the ongoing impact of racism, as evidenced by historical practices like the brown-paper-bag test that categorized and marginalized members of the Black community based on skin color (Bank, 2000; cited by Gilchrist, 2001, p.5) Research shows that this era fostered "racial consciousness and Black pride," which were significant as they challenged dominant ideological perspectives that favored lighter skin and European features (Wilder, 2010, p.187).

Wilder (2010) highlights that during the 1970s, skin color did not create divisions among Black individuals, with the younger generation embracing darker skin and natural hair as vital to the 'Black is beautiful' movement While this movement aimed to dismantle stereotypes surrounding skin tone, it ultimately fell short of achieving lasting change (Breland, Coard, Raskin, 2001) By the 1980s, many Black women reverted to chemical relaxers to conform to professional standards in the workplace Wilder asserts that despite the belief that colorism is a relic of the past, contemporary research reveals its persistence within the Black community, including hierarchies based on hair texture This texture differentiation is a significant aspect of colorism, linking curlism, or hair texture discrimination, to the broader historical context of colorism.

In the 20th century, Madame C.J Walker revolutionized the hair care industry with her invention of hair softeners and hot combs, aiming to shift the perception of hair away from the rejection of African ancestry However, her efforts became contentious with the rise of the Black Power Movement, as noted by Patton, who cites Jones and Shorter-Gooden's assertion that not all women who alter their hair view beauty as synonymous with whiteness Despite this, Walker's influence remains significant in the Black hair community; her products, while designed to enhance Black hair, also promote its alteration Ultimately, while Walker sought to empower Black women and boost their self-esteem, she faced criticism for imposing white beauty standards on them.

Scholar Zimitri Erasmus explores the complex interplay of sexuality, gender, and politics in relation to Black hair, highlighting its significance in understanding race and class dynamics She asserts that "Black hair is politicized by class and gender" and reflects a rich vocabulary that underscores its importance and intricate politics (1997, p.12) The diversity of hair textures within the Black community not only signifies individuality but also contributes to the formation of racial hierarchies Erasmus connects these themes to historical contexts, such as colonization, to illustrate how these factors have shaped the experiences of Black women and their relationship with their hair.

Legislation

The choice of hairstyle among Black women significantly influences their employment opportunities Scholar Tracey Owens Patton highlights that while women have autonomy over their hair, some African-American women have faced job loss due to hairstyles considered "too ethnic." Consequently, many Black women may feel compelled to compromise their personal hairstyle preferences to maintain their employment.

Patton highlights court cases demonstrating that women of color often face job termination for refusing to comply with discriminatory hairstyle policies, with employers facing minimal repercussions Notable cases like Rogers v American Airlines emerged in the late 1980s, leading to prolonged legal battles Although Patton argues for the freedom of hairstyle choice, the ongoing lawsuits reveal that Black women frequently must choose between their employment and their cultural hairstyle preferences, as many employers ban African-inspired hairstyles This issue extends to the military, where policies specifically targeting hairstyles predominantly worn by African-American women are enforced.

Dr Brittney Cooper, an assistant professor at Rutgers University, argues that the detailed guidelines reflect a belief that Black women's identities and physicality are seen as excessive and unruly, necessitating strict control.

Feminist thought, race, and gender in popular culture highlight the ongoing regulation of Black bodies, as noted by Copper She emphasizes that it's not only institutions that impose these regulations but also Black women who play a significant role in policing each other’s bodies For instance, family members may worry about employment prospects if relatives choose to wear their natural hair Consequently, Copper argues that Black women often conform to these societal pressures to avoid being perceived negatively or treated unprofessionally.

In 2014, the perception of hair straightening among Black women differed significantly from that of Black intellectuals like Marcus Garvey and W.E.B Dubois For many Black women, straightened hairstyles were not viewed as a means of imitating White culture, but rather as a way to achieve a contemporary and fashionable look.

Colorism and Curlism in the Black Community

Before delving into curlism, it is essential to understand colorism, which has been extensively researched to explain its impact within the Black community This phenomenon has evolved through various historical periods, including pre-civil rights, the Black power movement, civil rights, and post-civil rights eras Studies show that the skin color of African Americans significantly influences societal attitudes and treatment toward them in both White and Black cultures (Breland, Coard, and Raskin, 2001) The differential treatment based on skin tone shapes self-perception among Black individuals and affects how society perceives them, highlighting the profound impact of skin color.

The symbolism surrounding skin tone among African Americans is complex, with a variety of colloquial terms reflecting both positive and negative connotations Terms like blue-black, tar baby, red-bone, and high yellow categorize skin tones from dark to light, yet terms such as tar baby and blue-black carry negative implications for darker skin, while light bright is associated with positive attributes for lighter skin This pattern extends to hair texture as well, where the term nappy is often used to describe kinky hair, but can be perceived as offensive.

In “Revisiting “Color Names and Color Notions A Contemporary Examination of

In her research on colorism, Dr JeffriAnne Wilder, Assistant Professor of Sociology at the University of North Florida, highlights the pervasive internalization of light-skinned women as the epitome of beauty within the Black community, which undermines solidarity and perpetuates negative stereotypes associated with darker skin tones Wilder's study reveals that participants frequently associated negative descriptors with darker skin, while medium-toned Black women received no such negative labels, indicating a nuanced hierarchy within colorism She argues that the experiences of women with medium skin tones differ significantly from those of their light and dark-skinned counterparts, suggesting that colorism operates as a three-tiered system rather than a simple binary Despite this complexity, light skin continues to be valued more highly, further dividing Black women and complicating their collective identity.

Furthermore, the proximity to whiteness still plays a role in the development of the differentiation between hair textures in the Black community In her work, Audrey Kerr utilizes

The Paper Bag Principle examines the influence of class and skin complexion within Black communities, highlighting how phenotype and hair texture play a role in Black folklore and the dynamics of intraracial and racial discrimination Focusing on Washington, D.C., and students from Howard University, Kerr illustrates that "proximity to whiteness is still a passport to access and opportunity," with Black America's narrative often reflecting this through paper bag lore This complexion consciousness, shaped by cultural rituals and expressions, reveals the complexities of race, class, and color, significantly impacting the experiences of Black women regarding their skin color and hair texture Furthermore, light-skinned Blacks have historically distanced themselves from darker-skinned individuals, often forming exclusive social clubs and organizations based on skin tone (Wilder, 2010).

The procedure for this cultural study was developed through a large number of interviews from Howard University students To participant in the study, participants had to live in

Washington, D.C., identify as African-Americans, be Howard alumni or faculty, and be religious leaders and or members of a district church congregation There were so many Howard

Howard University holds historical significance for Black life in the city, making it a focal point for university student participants Kerr’s research indicates that hair politics are deeply gendered, with Black women often bearing the brunt of racialized perceptions surrounding skin color and hair texture Consequently, hair texture plays a crucial role in shaping perceptions of one's proximity to whiteness or blackness, ultimately influencing an individual's perceived opportunities and potential for advancement in life.

Russell-Cole, Wilson, and Hall (2013) highlight that African-Americans with medium-brown skin, the majority on the skin color distribution spectrum, tend to be less concerned about issues of skin color This suggests that individuals with "brown skin" often overlook the complexities of color dynamics within the Black community, as they may not have personally experienced colorism However, this perspective is complicated by the reality that skin color and hair texture can confer both advantages and disadvantages, indicating that one's position on the socially constructed color spectrum—whether light or dark—still holds significance.

William E Cross's work incorporates empirical studies to explore the development of self and group identity within the Black community He challenges the notion that self-hatred is the primary cause of issues related to Black identity formation Cross references the doll tests conducted by Kenneth and Mamie Clark, along with additional research on self-consciousness and racial identification, highlighting significant findings that contribute to understanding these identity dynamics.

Research indicates that children do not identify with socially defined groups but rather compare themselves based on physical attributes, such as skin color (Cross, 1991) Dark-skinned children often look to dark-skinned role models, while light-skinned children do the same with lighter figures This early behavior highlights the impact of colorism within the Black community, suggesting that darker-skinned individuals may experience negative group identity and psychological harm as a result.

Current research highlights significant differentiation within the Black community, particularly in the realm of natural hair This has led to the emergence of two distinct groups within the Black natural hair community, categorized by hair texture.

The transformation of identity in Black women often involves the transition from old elements to new ones, particularly in the context of their hair, which serves as a significant marker of identity (Cross, 1991, p.207) Embracing natural hair can signify a rejection of self-hatred and assimilation, yet it may also lead to a perceived disconnection from Black cultural affiliation.

The distinction between Black women with looser curls and lighter skin versus those with tighter curls and darker skin highlights the impact of natural hair texture discrimination, or curlism, within the online natural hair community This disparity is rooted in deeply ingrained societal perceptions, as researchers note that many Black women internalize these notions of beauty, influencing their self-perception and hairstyle choices (Wilder, 2010, p 194) Additionally, mass media plays a significant role in shaping the perception of Black hair, further complicating the dynamics of self-identity among Black women.

Mass Media/ Self Perceptions

The media often promotes products that reinforce hair texture biases by focusing on those designed for softer hair types Research by King and Niably supports this observation, highlighting that Black hair magazines frequently employ appealing language to market these products.

The portrayal of hair in media often emphasizes straight, long, or flowing styles, with white women frequently depicted as the beauty ideal (King and Niabaly, 2012) This study reveals that hair length is a top-ranking attribute in beauty standards, while natural hair ranks fourth, and curly or thick hair falls even lower Participants noted the diversity of Black hair magazines, yet they felt that the beauty rankings undermine Black natural beauty Over 50% of respondents acknowledged that these magazines significantly influence their hair care and styling choices, shaping their perceptions of attractiveness Additionally, colorism within the Black community places a higher value on proximity to whiteness, further complicating beauty standards.

Curlism uses the same characteristics, softer gradation of hair, also close to whiteness, which places a softer texture of hair over a kinkier one

Black hair politics remain intricate, as Black women face challenges whether they choose to relax their hair or embrace their natural texture Navigating life with diverse hair textures can be difficult for them In a discussion about these issues, interviewer Mary Huelsbelk spoke with cinematographer Regina, shedding light on the complexities surrounding Black hair.

In 2008, the natural hair movement gained significant traction, highlighting the importance of the Nappy Roots project This year marked a turning point as the popularity of natural hair and the community surrounding it began to flourish.

Researcher Regina Kimbell highlights her daughter's experience in Africa to illustrate that the perception of Afro hairstyles is not universally Afrocentric, as her daughter's host family found her Afro unattractive, reflecting similar beauty standards seen in America Kimbell's film, "Nappy Roots," explores the impact of imagery on perceptions of Black hair, with Huelsbelk questioning Kimbell about her own experiences growing up with nappy hair Kimbell expressed that the term "nappy" felt more derogatory than the racial slur "n," and she never anticipated celebrating her hair as she does now For her research, Kimbell utilized various resources, including libraries and hairstylists, accumulating 200 hours of footage and conducting numerous interviews When asked about the origin and evolving meaning of the word "nappy," Kimbell noted that its connotation differs significantly depending on who uses it, stating that its impact varies when used by an African American compared to someone like Don Imus.

In her discussion, Gilchrist references Bryd and Tharp's assertion that the media's ideal beauty standard has remained largely unchanged since the late 1800s However, her study reveals that Black hair magazines are striving to present a diverse range of beauty representations Additionally, the influence of social media has played a significant role in shaping the hair choices of Black women, often blurring the lines between traditional definitions of "good" and "bad" hair.

Inadvertently, mass media has moved in “a direction that celebrates Black hair for what it should be –a personal choice and not a social construction of acceptance or rejection” (Gilchrist, 2011, p

The perception of good and bad hair continues to influence social and cultural dynamics, highlighting the necessity for creating solutions that make Black hair more manageable.

Many Black women choose to chemically relax their hair due to lifelong struggles with their hair choices, often influenced by female family members (King and Niabaly, 2012) Conversely, some women opt for natural hairstyles to promote healthier hair and express their identity beyond societal norms While certain family members may associate relaxed hair with maturity, negative perceptions from Black males about natural hair can deter women from embracing their curls Interestingly, some Black women find greater acceptance of their natural hair among men outside their racial group, highlighting the complex dynamics of hair perception within different environments.

American women concluded that (Black) men like relaxed hair or with a weave more than women with natural hair” (King and Niabaly, 2012, p.12)

The younger generation of Black women increasingly prioritizes quick and convenient hairstyles, often overlooking the cultural significance of their hair As noted by Bellinger (2007), hair has evolved from merely representing social status to reflecting individual personality and convenience While the desire for convenience may drive some Black women to straighten their hair, research by King and Niabaly indicates that multiple motivations exist for this practice It is essential to consider the historical and social contexts, as Black hair profoundly influences the life experiences of Black women Participants in King’s and Niabaly’s study highlighted that natural hair is a personal choice, often influenced by family and community perspectives on hair relaxation.

Hair is a personal choice that often lacks cultural significance for individuals when making decisions about their hairstyles Notably, research indicates that African-American women generally have greater exposure to natural hair compared to African women, who typically embrace natural styles only after relocating to the United States (King and Niabaly).

Research indicates that African American women have greater exposure to natural hair, whereas African women view media as a significant influence on their hair choices, resulting in less exposure to natural hair representation This highlights the media's failure to create a platform for Black women to celebrate their natural hair.

The Emergence of the Natural Hair Community/Movement

The natural hair movement, which began in the late 1990s to early 2000s, has gained significant momentum in the past 5-7 years, largely due to advancements in technology Social media platforms, blogs, and YouTube have become vital spaces for Black women to exchange hair care tips, support those transitioning to natural hair, and celebrate the beauty of their natural textures These platforms are crucial for research as they provide reliable resources for analyzing issues within the natural hair community, including hair texture discrimination Natural hair bloggers, in particular, foster conversations among "naturalistas" about these challenges, creating a supportive environment for shared experiences and insights.

The rise of natural hair communities has transformed perceptions of Black hair by celebrating its natural beauty; however, Black women with natural hair still face challenges in spaces meant for their acceptance Notably, beauty brands and popular hair bloggers often neglect to celebrate 4A hair (kinky) in favor of 3A hair (softer curls), leading to feelings of exclusion among those with natural hair This highlights the need for further research into hair texture discrimination within the online natural hair community.

Limitations in the Literature

Black studies and women and gender studies have utilized the experiences of Black women to examine body politics, particularly in relation to hair, self-esteem, and socially constructed beauty standards Despite the diversity in age, economic status, and education among Black women, current research fails to address biases in hair texture within the Black natural hair community, leading to a significant gap in academic scholarship Most discussions surrounding natural hair focus on tutorials and care instructions, neglecting the deeper motivations and implications of wearing natural hair Future research should explore the transition of natural hair from a political statement to a more casual choice for some Black women, while also recognizing the historical context that challenges the notion of Black hair lacking significance The existing literature often compares Black hair to Eurocentric beauty standards, emphasizing the need for Black individuals to unlearn these ideals and foster a supportive community against discrimination and oppression.

Discrimination within the Black natural hair community is often overlooked, as research primarily focuses on colorism rather than curlism, a term that describes the belief that certain curl patterns are superior to others Despite the growing natural hair movement, academic studies have largely neglected the social implications for women in this community, who frequently face curlism This phenomenon mirrors colorism, where lighter skin tones are favored, and it is evident that negative perceptions are often associated with kinkier hair Research indicates that hair preferences can be ingrained from a young age, with Black males often showing a preference for longer, straighter hair Unfortunately, there is a significant lack of literature addressing the challenges, including workplace discrimination, that Black women with natural hair encounter.

Theoretical Framework

Scholars have expanded their analysis beyond historical perspectives by employing various theoretical frameworks Tracey Owens Patton, for instance, applied Afrocentric and standpoint theories to investigate the challenges Black women face regarding beauty, body image, and hair She asserts that “Standpoint theory coupled with Afrocentric theory is an extremely powerful critical tool in which to examine body image, hair and race,” highlighting how Afrocentric theory serves to redefine and challenge the marginalization and racist beauty standards imposed on all women (Patton, 2006, p 32) By utilizing these frameworks, particularly Afrocentricity, Patton effectively removes the Euro-supremacist lens from her research.

This research aims to explore a specific group within a community, utilizing Black feminist thought as its theoretical framework By examining various frameworks employed in similar studies, the researcher seeks to determine the most effective approach for the current investigation.

Black feminist thought emphasizes the importance of self-reliance, self-definition, and independence for Black women, challenging the suppression of their voices that perpetuates social inequalities As Patricia Hill Collins notes, the silencing of oppressed groups facilitates the dominance of those in power, leading to the victimization of marginalized communities Historically, Black women have reshaped their perspectives to advocate for their own empowerment while addressing social injustices that mainstream feminism often overlooks This framework enables them to analyze their lived experiences through their unique viewpoints Additionally, issues like colorism and hair texture discrimination highlight the complexities of identity within the Black community A literature review reveals that Black feminist thought is crucial for understanding individual experiences, particularly in examining the impact of curlism within the online natural hair community.

Summary

The literature review highlights a significant link between colorism and curlism, yet the latter remains largely unexplored in current research Existing studies indicate that individuals with softer hair and lighter skin experience social advantages, including better access to elite social circles, education, and job opportunities, a legacy of slavery that has adversely affected the Black community by promoting proximity to whiteness while devaluing Black identity Consequently, hair texture gradation has become a marker of Blackness versus whiteness This issue is particularly evident within the online natural hair community, where hair texture discrimination poses a major challenge Given the scarcity of literature on this topic, further investigation is essential The upcoming chapter will outline the research methods employed to address these issues and advance the overall research question.

3 RESEARCH METHODS AND DESIGN APPROPRIATENESS

This qualitative study aims to investigate the origins and impacts of curlism within the online natural hair community, highlighting its role in perpetuating hair texture discrimination among Black women Linked to colorism, the research seeks to provide a deeper understanding of how hair texture discrimination affects various aspects of their daily lives The rise of curlism coincides with the increasing popularity of the Black natural hair movement in the late 2000s, rooted in themes of racial identity and pride, yet representing an informal cultural shift Despite its significance, empirical research on this topic remains limited This chapter outlines the study's design, including sampling, data collection, and analysis methods, detailing the inquiry process.

This study employs thematic content analysis to explore the experiences of Black women within the online natural hair community It specifically investigates issues that have arisen, such as curlism, as a result of this community's emergence The primary research question focuses on uncovering biases present in the online natural hair community.

1 What do women value about going natural?

2 What challenges/biases do women encounter on their natural hair journey?

3 How do women resist the oppressions they encounter?

This research analyzes natural hair blog posts and YouTube videos to explore the phenomenon of curlism within the online natural hair community Chapter five highlights the need for further investigation, as existing literature fails to address hair biases specific to this community By employing qualitative methods, the study provides a reliable examination of curlism, contrasting with the quantitative approaches used in previous studies on colorism in the Black community This research aims to fill the gap by focusing on personal experiences related to curlism in digital spaces, ultimately shedding light on its impact on the overall life conditions of Black women.

Population and Sampling

This study conducts a thematic analysis of bloggers and vloggers addressing the issues of natural hair, hair typing, and natural hair biases, with a focus on content found through Google searches The search yielded 94,400,000 results for natural hair, 25,300,000 for hair typing, and 1,020,000 for natural hair bias, highlighting significant discourse around these topics Notably, discussions of natural hair biases in military contexts emerged prominently, with terms like "natural hair texture discrimination" and "curlism" frequently used in the natural hair community Specific search results revealed 64,300 entries for hair texture discrimination and 8,400 for curlism The selected blogs and vlogs are authored by Black women who actively engage with the natural hair community In YouTube searches, "hair texture discrimination" produced 5,010 results, while "curlism" yielded only 84, with most videos having fewer than 500 views However, three videos on hair texture discrimination, each exceeding 10,000 views and published within the last year, were identified as particularly relevant to the research.

This study focuses on members of the online natural hair community, specifically analyzing blog posts and YouTube videos that address natural hair texture bias The sample consists of comments from women who engage with these natural hair platforms In addition to the blog posts and videos discussing the research problem, the study incorporates comments from viewers, which are included in the thematic analysis to provide a comprehensive understanding of the topic.

Data Collection

Online Sites

The thematic analysis incorporates insights from influential bloggers and vloggers such as Curly Nikki, Black Girl Long Hair, Taren Guy, Jouelzy, and Jade Kendle (LipStickNCurls) These content creators have established platforms that facilitate discussions about hair texture in the natural hair community Engaging with a diverse range of voices is crucial for a comprehensive understanding of the research problem.

Vlogs

YouTube serves as a vital platform for women with natural hair, enabling them to engage in discussions and reach a broader audience This research focuses on prominent vloggers LipStickNCurls, Jouelzy, and Taren Guy, selected for their significant viewership and the esteemed reputation they hold within the online natural hair community.

Blogs

The study focuses on popular blog sites such as Curly Nikki and Black Girl Long Hair, which have garnered significant followings These platforms facilitate active discussions on curlism, allowing for an assessment of the interactions between bloggers and their audiences.

Discussion of Thematic Analysis

The researcher performs a thematic analysis of natural hair blogs and vlogs to gain insights into the experiences of women in this community By collecting user comments on these posts, the researcher selects the most relevant feedback based on popularity and recency Popularity is measured by the number of likes and the level of interaction each comment generates within the discussion.

The researcher employs thematic analysis as outlined in Greg Guest and Kathleen MacQueen’s "Applied Thematic Analysis," which emphasizes the importance of supporting claims with data, linking it to grounded theory's inductive techniques for identifying categories and concepts This study integrates a synthesized methodological framework, incorporating elements from grounded theory and phenomenology to adapt useful techniques for applied research The data analysis process includes six key aspects: data compliance, code development, theme identification, theme review and definition, and findings production Initially, the researcher examines the data multiple times to identify and document patterns After developing codes, themes are created and analyzed to determine their relevance to the data Finally, the researcher assesses which themes provide significant insights into the overall understanding of the data.

In the thematic analysis, the researcher employs emotion coding in the first cycle to capture the emotions experienced or recalled by participants, as outlined by Saldaña (2013) This approach enables a deeper understanding of participants' experiences and their involvement in curlism, ensuring that their unique narratives are effectively conveyed Emotion coding also aids in defining psychological states, allowing the researcher to grasp the feelings tied to participants' personal hair stories For the second cycle, values coding is utilized to reflect participants' values, attitudes, and beliefs, thus representing their perspectives The initial cycle focuses on extracting emotional descriptors from participants' responses, which contextualizes their personal natural hair stories, a method that is similarly applied in the values coding process.

The final stage of the data analysis process involves presenting findings through the lens of Black feminist thought, which serves as a theoretical framework for interpreting data specific to Black women's experiences This approach uncovers the significance, resistance, and power dynamics related to hair texture discrimination within the online natural hair community Moreover, the researcher highlights the broader impact of the research experience on Black women, emphasizing their unique challenges and perspectives.

Reliability and Validity

The study's reliability and validity hinge on meticulous note-taking, self-transcription of data, and adherence to qualitative research protocols The researcher conducted a thematic analysis by viewing three popular YouTube videos on hair texture discrimination, each watched three times, followed by an in-depth reading of two related blog posts Detailed notes were taken to identify recurring patterns and themes The self-transcription process, combined with repeated exposure to the videos and blog content, enhances the reliability of the extracted codes However, it is important to note that the codes were not reviewed or validated by external parties, nor were any textual associations or compatibility scores generated.

Limitations

The researcher acknowledges a limitation in the study related to the small sample size of 20-30 black women, which may narrow the analysis Additionally, the absence of external verification for the coding process raises concerns about reliability The study employs thematic content analysis, encompassing data discussion, analysis, and interpretation, to enhance the understanding of the overarching research question.

Summary

This chapter focuses on the study's design and its suitability, detailing the population and sampling methods as well as the research procedures employed for data collection It also addresses the reliability and validity of the study The subsequent chapter will present the findings.

This chapter presents a comprehensive overview of the research findings, focusing on thematic analysis derived from blogs, videos, and comments related to hair texture biases in the natural hair community It examines and summarizes the responses from all participants, providing insights into the demographics of the study, data collection methods, and analytical processes The chapter concludes with a detailed exploration of the overarching research question regarding hair texture biases.

This study aims to investigate hair texture biases within the natural hair community, utilizing thematic analysis to gain insights into the experiences of women facing these biases Despite the growing natural hair movement, existing literature has not adequately addressed hair texture biases in this community This qualitative research seeks to fill that gap by exploring the perspectives of underrepresented women The fundamental research questions guiding this thematic analysis focus on understanding the nuances of these biases.

1 What do women value about going natural?

2 What challenges/biases do women encounter on their natural hair journey?

3 How do women resist the oppressions they encounter?

The thematic analysis incorporates discussions from blog and video posts, along with comments from users and subscribers These interactions are crucial for gaining a comprehensive understanding of the research question, shedding light on how hair texture biases permeate the natural hair community.

This study employs thematic analysis to investigate the research question, utilizing a qualitative approach to identify recurring themes through coded data The analysis encompasses blogs, videos, and comments from blog and vlog posts, conducted in three separate sessions where the researcher noted common issues and concerns Key aspects of the video assessment included language, tone of voice, and the stance of the content creators Only the identities of the bloggers and vloggers are disclosed, while user identities in the comment sections remain anonymous The data analysis is informed by emotion and value coding, as outlined in John W Creswell's "Qualitative Inquiry and Research Design: Choosing Among Five Approaches."

Demographics

Participants in the comment section are identified solely by their usernames, leading to a diverse range of ages, socioeconomic statuses, and locations, although all reside in the United States A notable trend among Black women living outside the U.S involves comparing their experiences to those within the country, but their responses are excluded from this study The demographics of the bloggers and vloggers include Black women aged 24-35, all of whom identify as members of the natural hair community, thereby meeting the fundamental criteria for the research However, due to insufficient information regarding age and occupation, the researcher cannot fully confirm that all participants meet all criteria for the study.

Three Black women vloggers, aged 24-35, from the East Coast of the United States, discuss hair texture discrimination within the natural hair community Among them, Lipstickncurls (Jade Kendle) has garnered 18,149 views and 291 comments on her video titled "Texture Discrimination?" Jouelzy leads with 128,315 views and 2,267 comments, while Taren Guy has accumulated 55,967 views and 1,173 comments on her content All vloggers highlight the biases faced by individuals with different hair textures.

Thematic Analysis and Description

Thematic analysis, guided by a Black feminist thought theoretical framework, is employed to examine collected data This process involves six key steps: (1) familiarizing oneself with the data, (2) creating codes, (3) identifying themes within the codes, (4) reviewing the themes, (5) defining and naming the themes, and (6) developing findings (Guest and MacQueen, 2012) These steps effectively conclude the analysis process.

This study focuses on three Black women vloggers and two Black women bloggers residing in the United States, all of whom contribute to the online natural hair community The analysis includes comments from Black women of various ages, although no specific details about the subscribers are provided A comprehensive overview of the individuals who create these online videos and blogs is presented below.

In her August 23, 2014 YouTube video titled “Texture Discrimination?”, vlogger Jade Kendle, a 24-year-old biracial woman from Dallas, Texas, addresses the issue of hair texture discrimination Known for her long, soft curls, Kendle, who began her vlog under the username Lipstickncurls in 2011, reflects on the challenges faced by women with lighter skin and softer hair textures She empathizes with Black women who have kinkier hair, stating, “I’m trying to be me, be natural, and I can’t even get the props that I deserve because of the type of hair that grows out of my head.” Through her personal narrative, Kendle sheds light on the complexities of hair texture bias within the beauty community.

The concept of "texturism" highlights that women with softer curls also face hair texture discrimination This issue is particularly disheartening as it seeps into the natural hair movement, which is intended to be a pure and liberating space for all.

Jouelzy, an African American blogger and vlogger based in Washington, D.C., champions Smart Brown Girls through her engaging video and blog content With over 125,000 subscribers and 6.6 million views, she proudly advocates for 4C naturals, a group often underrepresented in various media spaces Notably, she shared her impactful video titled “So Over the Natural Hair Community & Texture Discrimination” on April 27, 2014, addressing important issues within the natural hair community.

In her video, Jouelzy highlights the underrepresentation of 4C natural hair in digital spaces and the insufficient support from beauty brands She points out that the natural hair community often showcases shiny, curly textures, which leaves little room for diverse representations like hers Jouelzy emphasizes that while she appreciates her hair, societal perceptions often deem 4C hair less beautiful compared to looser curls She advocates for a balance in promoting both curly and kinky textures, expressing her frustration with the lack of support from the natural hair community, which has led her to reduce her content creation focused on natural hair.

In 2009, Taren Guy, a biracial woman from New York City, began her journey as a blogger and vlogger focused on natural hair care Since then, she has amassed over 20 million views globally and gained a following of half a million on social media platforms Notably, she shared a video titled “Natural Hair Separation Equals B.S.” in June, further contributing to the conversation around natural hair.

In a discussion on hair texture discrimination, Guy emphasizes the importance of not undermining the experiences of those with different hair types, stating that privilege should not invalidate one's message She acknowledges the need for greater representation of kinky hair in beauty spaces but insists that women with kinky hair must advocate for their own representation rather than waiting for others to do so This conversation gained traction when blogger Nikki Walton shared Dr Susan Walker's article, "Curl Envy and Hair Texture Discrimination," on Curlynikki.com, which sparked significant engagement with 587 comments before the last post on March 19, 2015.

The second blog, Black Girl Long Hair, writer Chinwe posted a blog entitled “Does

‘Texture Discrimination’ Affect the Success of Naturals on Youtube and Social Media” on May

11 th 2014 with 244 comments The latest post on this site is March 19 th 2015 This is the order that the researcher collects the data The following is the analytical framework.

Analysis

The research utilized emotion and value coding to explore themes in the data, as detailed in the appendix In the initial coding cycle, the researcher identified feelings expressed in comments on blog and video posts Table A in the appendix illustrates the emotions related to hair texture biases and their impact on individuals' personal journeys with natural hair.

In the second coding cycle, the researcher analyzed commenters' beliefs and attitudes to formulate codes that reflect the values identified in the study This process led to the emergence of four key themes: "The Kink Vs The Curl," "Curlism as Colorism," "Insurgence of Hair Texture Biases," and "Empowerment of the Natural Hair Community." A table is provided to illustrate the relationship between these themes, the research questions, and the theoretical framework.

What do women value about going natural?

Embracing natural hair can feel overwhelming at first, but it brings a sense of pride once you learn how to care for it Starting your journey with hair typing can be beneficial, as it allows you to gather techniques and tips from others who have a similar hair texture.

The Kink Vs The Curl

What challenge/biases do women encounter on their journey that they did not expect?

Transitioning to natural hair often brings unexpected challenges, as many discover that the journey can be more complicated than anticipated Initially, I believed that embracing my natural texture would offer freedom and liberation, but instead, I found myself facing new issues within the natural hair community Additionally, scrolling through Instagram can be disheartening, as the overwhelming presence of big, bouncy curls often makes it difficult to relate to my own hair experiences.

Beautiful as they are, my texture is not represented”

Curlism as Colorism, Empowerment of the Natural Hair Community

How do women resist the oppression that they encounter?

Texture discrimination in beauty standards is a significant issue, as highlighted by numerous advertisements targeting 3A-C hair types This video emphasizes the need for awareness and action, and I have taken a stand by supporting specific vloggers and making conscious choices with my purchases.

Insurgence of Hair Texture Biases

Following is a detailed description of all the developed themes found in the study.

The Kink Vs The Curl

Many respondents reported experiencing hair texture discrimination, often engaging in heated discussions about hair typing on blogs and video posts Commenters debated whether women with looser curl patterns, such as those with 3A-3C hair types, face the same struggles as those with 4C hair Some argued that mixed-race women should not be included in the natural hair community, while others felt that figures like vlogger Lipstickncurls were playing the victim regarding "texturism." The conversations highlighted a divide, with Black women and mixed women taking opposing sides on the existence of hair texture discrimination A biracial commenter stated that texture discrimination aims to empower those with kinkier hair, while another argued that marginalizing others is not a form of empowerment The discourse revealed a persistent distinction between Black women and mixed women, with the former often dismissing the struggles of the latter, leading to the conclusion that curlism reflects deeper issues of colorism within the natural hair community.

Curlism as Colorism

The literature review highlights a significant correlation between colorism and curlism, revealing a hierarchical relationship between hair type and skin tone Discussions often shift from one hair texture to another, where looser curls are frequently linked to lighter skin tones, while short, kinky hair is predominantly associated with darker-skinned women.

In a recent video post by Lipstickncurls, many commenters expressed the belief that light-skinned women with looser curls lack a legitimate perspective on hair texture discrimination, arguing they are unlikely to face such issues One commenter highlighted the misconception that dark skin always correlates with kinky hair, while another voiced concern over the direction of the natural hair community Additionally, some participants noted that curly hair is often celebrated, whereas dark-skinned women with kinkier textures tend to have fewer subscribers, as their hair is viewed as less desirable In response to vlogger Jouelzy's video on texture discrimination, commenters questioned the notion that certain curl patterns define one's Blackness, with one woman pointing out the hypocrisy in criticizing type 3 hair while elevating type 4 hair, suggesting that this divisiveness only fosters more negativity within the natural hair community.

The natural hair community acknowledges a significant lack of representation and celebration for 4C natural hair online Vlogger Taren Guy argues in her video that hair texture and skin tone are unrelated, a claim met with mixed reactions from viewers While some commenters agree that the differences in texture should not matter, many emphasize that skin tone does influence experiences with texture discrimination This issue is prevalent both on social media and in everyday life, leading to feelings of unappreciation among Black women, particularly due to marketing that favors products for mixed textures and promotes anti-shrinkage solutions Consequently, women with kinky hair feel marginalized in a space that should celebrate their beauty.

In Susan Walker's article "Curl Envy and Hair Texture Discrimination" on Curlynikki.com, many respondents expressed concerns about the underrepresentation of kinky hair It highlights a troubling reality where Black naturals often face hair texture discrimination, both from others and within their own community One commenter poignantly recalled her childhood desire for "pretty hair," emphasizing that Black naturals have significant work to do in healing emotional wounds and asserting their presence in society.

The blog post on Black Girl Long Hair discusses how "Texture Discrimination" impacts the visibility of 4B/4C natural hair types on platforms like YouTube and social media It suggests that the underrepresentation of 4B/4C naturals compared to 3A/3B naturals is largely due to societal biases and preferences surrounding hair texture.

The discussion around "watchability" highlights that women with looser curls often receive more attention in natural hair videos Blogger and vlogger Jouelzy pointed out the lack of support for 4C naturals from both natural hair brands and YouTube subscribers, despite having similar hair textures Many commenters echoed the sentiment that viewers tend to favor looser curl patterns, leading to misconceptions about how their own natural hair will look This ongoing comparison and discrimination against tightly coiled hair persist, even though the natural hair community was initially established to celebrate 4C textures.

Commenters have noted that Jouelzy's perceived lack of support may stem from her attitude and the presentation of her short hair in videos One commenter remarked that hair length influences viewer engagement, implying that natural hair women often favor vloggers with longer, looser curl patterns This trend highlights a division within the natural hair community, where Eurocentric beauty standards overshadow the acceptance of 4C hair types Many individuals expressed a desire for validation from men and societal norms, leading to the marginalization of 4C naturals in a community that should promote inclusivity.

Eurocentric beauty standards This leads to the following theme: Insurgence of Hair Texture Biases.

Insurgence of Hair Texture Biases

The natural hair community faces criticism for allegedly excluding women based on skin tone and hair texture, with some respondents indicating that both dark-skinned and light-skinned women feel marginalized While different hair textures present unique challenges, women with type 4C hair express frustration, believing that those with 3B-4B hair types cannot fully comprehend their struggles, making attempts at relatability offensive The disparity in support for natural hair YouTubers is evident, as those with looser curl patterns tend to attract more sponsorships and viewership Vlogger Jouelzy highlights that the community's ideal of healthy natural hair often overlooks the realities faced by 4C women, who grapple with issues like slicking down edges and lack of support A comparison of YouTube tutorials reveals that a 4C flat twist out video took over a year to reach 200,000 views, while a similar tutorial featuring looser curls achieved the same milestone in just two weeks, underscoring the lack of support for 4C naturals within the broader community.

The natural hair community often overlooks 4C naturals, leaving tightly coiled and kinky-haired women feeling underrepresented While curly-haired women receive more visibility, some mixed-race women perceive blame from their darker-skinned counterparts for their hair struggles Taren Guy acknowledges her privilege but emphasizes the importance of self-love for all women Although light-skinned women are validated in mainstream culture, they often feel attacked by dark-skinned women, who in turn feel that lighter-skinned women exploit their status within the community This tension leads to a lack of support for light-skinned women’s platforms, as dark-skinned women resist curlism Ultimately, both groups struggle for inclusion due to hair typing and texture biases, highlighting an imbalance between type 3 and type 4 natural hair textures.

Empowerment of the natural hair community.

Empowerment of the Natural Hair Community

A greater number of the respondents disclosed that the natural hair community is exclusively created for a woman with kinkier hair because their hair type is not accepted by society

The natural hair community needs to prioritize the representation of women with dark skin, shorter lengths, and tighter textures, particularly those with 4C hair, as current media and product lines often overlook them While many acknowledge the shared struggles of maintaining natural hair, there remains a tendency to showcase looser curl textures as the standard for the community Consequently, kinkier hair types are frequently marginalized, leading to a longer journey for these women to embrace and love their natural hair.

The natural hair community's lack of support for 4C hair types highlights how beauty brands exploit insecurities within this group Commenters, like one under Taren Guy's video, emphasize that "self-hate is real," revealing the deep divisions regarding natural hair acceptance While some argue that natural hair companies share the blame, others point to the community itself, as seen in responses to Dr Susan Walker's post on Curlynikki.com, which suggest that hair typing primarily serves as a product recommendation tool without objective criteria This creates confusion about what constitutes manageable hair, leading some women to distance themselves from the community despite finding empowerment in their natural hair journeys The online narrative often promotes a narrow definition of natural hair, suggesting that all Black women desire loose, soft curls, which can be harmful and exclusionary.

The analysis of comments from blogs and video posts in the natural hair community reveals four key themes that highlight hair texture bias and align with Black feminist thought This data is gathered from online responses, utilizing emotion and value coding to effectively deconstruct and develop these themes.

Summary

This study investigates hair texture biases and their impact on Black women's natural hair journeys The respondents, all under 40, are actively engaged in the online natural hair community Drawing on Patricia Hill Collins' Black feminist thought, the research highlights the specific biases faced by women with 4C hair and their resistance to oppression through community support The analysis focuses on the experiences of Black women in the U.S., examining controlling images of looser curls in digital spaces, self-definition, and the creation of safe environments The thematic analysis reveals how natural hair biases manifest in the online community and identifies the sources of these texture biases.

This chapter presents the findings on the experiences of Black women in the online natural hair community regarding hair texture biases It encompasses discussions and conclusions drawn from the analysis, highlighting the implications of the study Additionally, it offers recommendations for future research directions.

Discussions and Conclusions

This study aims to investigate hair texture biases within the online natural hair community, focusing on who perpetuates these biases The central research question examines whether Black women experience hair texture biases in this digital space To ensure relevant insights, Black women participating in the online natural hair community are invited to discuss selected blog and video posts, guiding the thematic analysis with targeted questions.

1 What do women value about going natural?

2 What challenges/biases do women encounter on their natural hair journey?

3 How do women resist the oppressions they encounter?

All respondents met the study's basic criteria, but age information was unavailable due to a lack of data from online subscribers and followers The study initially hypothesized that Black women with natural hair face hair texture discrimination, with the beauty industry playing a role in perpetuating hierarchies within the natural hair community Additionally, it was posited that hair texture biases impact Black women's natural hair journeys, as some women anticipate achieving a looser curl pattern when transitioning to natural hair and feel disappointment if their curls are not as loose after the big chop.

This study reveals that hair texture biases, often referred to as curlism, texture discrimination, and texturism, are prevalent among Black women, as highlighted by comments from bloggers and vloggers Similar to colorism, those with hair textures closer to Eurocentric standards often experience greater access to power and privilege Black women face pressures not only from mainstream beauty ideals but also within the natural hair community, emphasizing the need to explore how these biases manifest in online spaces.

Historical stereotypes surrounding Black hair, including labels like "bad hair," "nappy," and "unmanageable," significantly influence how Black women view their hair Many women report that these perceptions are ingrained from childhood, leading them to desire a more socially accepted hair type Upon discovering the natural hair community, some women are surprised to encounter similar challenges as before, such as the ongoing quest for "desirable" hair, divisions among different groups of Black women, and a lack of celebration for various hair types.

Dr Susan Walker, a licensed Naturopathic doctor and natural hair consultant:

Tight, coily, and kinky-haired individuals often face underrepresentation and lack the recognition that their looser, silkier-haired counterparts receive This disparity is evident on social media, where images and videos of looser curls garner more engagement and positive feedback Additionally, it is suggested that those with looser curls enjoy greater media and sponsorship opportunities Bloggers and vloggers are raising awareness about this issue, attributing part of the blame to natural hair care companies that reinforce the stereotype of "good hair," which is typically defined as long, loosely curled, and shiny with significant movement This dynamic highlights the ongoing division within the natural hair community.

Chapter four highlights that Black women with looser curl patterns often receive more opportunities and favoritism within the beauty industry and the natural hair community Dr Walker asserts that hair texture biases stem from European colonialism, which has institutionalized racism within Black culture This colorism leads to challenges for women with natural hair, as many feel pressured to alter their hair with products for acceptance Respondents noted that light-skinned women with looser curls struggle to relate to the experiences of dark-skinned women with kinky hair, resulting in a division within the community fueled by the celebration of certain hair types in public digital spaces.

Patricia Hill Collins explains, “This particular expression of the journey toward self- definition offers a powerful challenge to externally defined, controlling images of African-

American women Replacing negative images with positive ones can be equally problematic if the function of stereotypes as controlling images remains unrecognized” (2013, p 125)

The natural hair community was initially established to create an inclusive environment for Black women embracing their natural hair However, it has increasingly favored light-skinned women with looser curls, leading many Black women to perceive that these individuals hold more power and privilege within the community While the movement promotes positive stereotypes, such as the celebration of natural hairstyles, it simultaneously enforces specific standards regarding which types of natural hair are deemed acceptable both visually and socially.

Many respondents experience hair texture discrimination, leading some women to expect their curls to be less kinky, as seen in popular YouTube hair vlogs This issue, highlighted by Patricia Hill Collins as a necessary condition for Black women’s resistance, compromises the online natural hair community, which is meant to be a safe space Hair texture discrimination fosters negative stereotypes and is fundamental to the oppression of Black women, perpetuating inequalities within a group that already faces significant challenges Within this community, a hierarchy emerges that favors softer curls and lighter skin, establishing a hegemonic standard of Black natural hair.

Many girls aspire to achieve the looser curls they see on YouTube, believing that their natural hair will resemble those styles once they go natural This mindset often overlooks the discrimination faced by those with tighter coils, particularly 4C hair Despite the natural hair community being initially created for girls with 4C hair, the prevalence of looser textures can overshadow their experiences While this perspective doesn't represent all Black women, it highlights the significant concern and frustration regarding the mistreatment of 4C naturals.

“Despite the common challenges confronting African-American women as a group, individual Black women neither have identical experiences nor interpret experiences in a similar fashion”

Hair texture discrimination creates a divide among Black women, with those having softer curls feeling their experiences are often dismissed, while women with kinkier hair argue that softer curls are celebrated, thus shielding them from similar discrimination This disparity leads to tension within the natural hair community, as illustrated by a respondent who stated, “I think mixed girls need to stop forcing themselves in an African textured hair movement.”

The natural hair community has emerged to redefine Black womanhood by challenging oppressive beauty standards historically imposed by white aesthetics This community not only serves as a platform for Black women to express their identities but also highlights the need for resistance against hair texture discrimination Many Black women are beginning to reject beauty vloggers and brands that promote softer hair textures, emphasizing the importance of diverse representations within the community As Collins notes, Black feminist thought is crucial for Black women to navigate and resist differential treatment However, hair texture discrimination within the natural hair community itself hinders collective resistance, as women face oppression even among their own group.

The online natural hair community has increasingly become an unsafe space for Black women, which is contrary to the necessity of a supportive environment for their resistance (Collins, 2000) By emphasizing specific curl patterns, the portrayal of African-American women within this community has led to contradictions This has resulted in a tendency to categorize hair types, creating distinct groups and support systems among Black women While the natural hair community still holds potential as a safe space that fosters empowerment, it has also evolved into exclusionary environments, undermining solidarity among women Collins emphasizes that this focus on hair type can alienate individual Black women, detracting from the community's original purpose.

Despite facing negative experiences in the natural hair community, Black women can achieve personal empowerment through their natural hair journey By cultivating self-knowledge, they can transform their consciousness into a sphere of freedom, even when external conditions limit their ability to act This journey reflects the resilience and strength of Black women as they embrace their identity and empower themselves.

Black feminist thought highlights how Black women confront and resist hair texture discrimination, empowering them despite these challenges By examining the biases surrounding natural hair both within the community and beyond, we can uncover potential solutions to foster acceptance and celebration of diverse hair textures.

Implications

The study reveals that both light-skinned and dark-skinned Black women face hair texture biases, yet the majority of respondents indicate that dark-skinned women with kinky hair are the most affected The comments highlight that while hair texture biases manifest in various ways, dark-skinned women are predominantly targeted As noted in the literature, the distinction between "good" and "bad" hair is ingrained in Black culture, with straight hair often associated with economic and social advantages (Byrd and Tharps, 2001, p.17) In this context, looser curls are viewed as a social advantage, leading to a representation in the online natural hair community where women with looser curls receive more support from beauty brands and fellow naturals.

This study highlights the strong correlation between hair texture and skin tone, with many respondents associating looser curls and long hair with lighter-skinned women, while linking dark skin to short, kinky hair Biases regarding hair texture are prevalent within the natural hair community, often fueled by natural hair companies that promote positive stereotypes of "good hair" without adequately representing women with 4C hair Dark-skinned women with kinkier hair feel that light-skinned women play the victim in discussions about hair texture biases, while light-skinned women believe they are unfairly blamed for their popular curl patterns and feel excluded from the community Additionally, light-skinned women with looser curls tend to garner more views and subscribers on platforms like YouTube, as even those with 4C hair are more inclined to support creators with 3A/B textures, leaving 4C YouTubers with less recognition.

The natural hair community has developed divisions based on hair texture, largely due to historical internalized oppression among Black women This has led to pronounced biases that significantly impact their natural hair journeys Many women express that the predominant representation of looser curls creates unrealistic expectations about their own hair's appearance While some respondents rely on the hair typing system to select suitable products, others criticize it as frivolous, particularly for those with 4C hair Consequently, women often purchase products in hopes of achieving a more "desirable" hair type that is not reflective of their natural texture.

Natural hair companies often exploit insecurities surrounding kinky hair by promoting products aimed at defining and stretching curls While many individuals with 4C hair do not have significant issues with their hair, some express a desire for less kinkiness, particularly during detangling Additionally, biases regarding hair length contribute to perceptions of desirability, with longer hair often being favored Some respondents have chosen to distance themselves from the natural hair community due to these texture biases Ultimately, the study reveals that the natural hair community may not provide a completely safe and supportive environment for Black women.

Recommendations

Explore Natural Hair Companies

Future research should focus specifically on natural hair companies, as the current study primarily analyzes the experiences of Black women with natural hair through blogs and YouTube content While it was found that these companies contribute to hair texture biases, the study did not delve into this aspect in detail Notably, "Curly and wavy girls dominate the branding in products mass marketed to natural hair" (Trudy, 2011), indicating a need for further exploration of the natural hair product market By examining how natural hair companies can either perpetuate or help eliminate these biases, future studies can provide valuable insights that benefit all Black women and foster a more inclusive representation within the natural hair community.

Explore the Elimination of Hair Texture Biases

The second recommendation focuses on eliminating hair texture biases within the natural hair community, aiming to enhance the natural hair journey for Black women considering going natural Vlogger Taren Guy emphasizes that healing begins internally and within the community, highlighting the need to address the historical wounds related to hair texture Future studies should investigate methods to eradicate these biases, enabling Black women to progress positively While research indicates that most Black women recognize hair texture biases, there is a lack of dialogue on how the natural hair community can actively stop perpetuating these biases.

Exploring this aspect can lead to a solution that restores the natural hair community as a safe and inclusive space, where all Black women with natural hair feel celebrated and valued.

Summary and Final Thoughts

This study investigates hair texture biases within the online natural hair community, highlighting the personal experiences of respondents who faced hair texture discrimination, a sentiment echoed by the researcher Despite limitations, the findings emphasize the importance of representation, as the researcher found empowerment and acceptance by following individuals with similar hair textures The research concludes that the hair typing system is not beneficial, and curls are often celebrated when styled in specific ways To combat hair texture discrimination, the study advocates for personal empowerment and the demand for recognition and acceptance of all hair types within the community Future research is recommended to further explore these dynamics.

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Appendix A.1 First Cycle of Coding- Emotion

Frustrated “I experienced the good hair vs bad hair mentality; I thought it would change when going natural.”

Tired “Don’t point to the curly girl and say that she is privileged, or her message does not matter”

Unloved “Beauty is in all different textures of hair

Girls with kinkier hair take that negative energy and internalize it, which causes them to feel bad”

Attacked “The hate is unreal for light skinned women”

Excluded (1) “These girls watch looser curl

Many YouTubers believe that embracing their natural hair will result in textures similar to those of the influencers they admire However, this perception often overlooks the discrimination faced by those with tighter coils, as the natural hair community frequently highlights looser textures It's crucial for mixed-race individuals to recognize that they shouldn't feel pressured to conform to a movement that primarily celebrates African textured hair.

Insecure “The 4C girl feels like people are ridiculing her in their heads”

Judged “I thought going natural was freedom and liberation but you come in this community and you experience more problems than when you were relaxed”.